Hi all new to the site, just got my first but long awaited 240z. I have a few questions, one is what should i do with this hole? put an o2 sensor in it or plug it. if an o2 sensor is needed where should it plug in? My next question is where does this plug in? it comes of the tps and its just hanging out there. Any info would be great thanks!

 

Welcome to ZDriver!

I take it you didn't do the motor swap?
Does it run right now?
Any intelligent ecu will need an O2 sensor... but we don't know what ecu you have.
And that open plug on the tps is for the potentiometer... again, only needed if your ecu needs it. Otherwise the normal tps switch is doing it's job just fine.



Tell us more info on this car so we can better help you.

 

Right, the guy i bought if from has a shop in town and he jst builds drift cars all day and he did the swap. Im not to sure what ecu i have either, i can look when i get home but i do know the motor is an l28et not sure if thats any help. The car its in is a 76 and i believe all the wiring was done correctly it just may be missing a few things or not their connected. But im no genius when it comes to wiring. and thanks for the reply!!

 

And that guy just left the O2 sensor port open..?

 

yep its wide open and theres no female plug in sight, atleast that i recognize. how yould i go about putting one in?

 

Will you post a pic of the entire intake manifold?

He didn't use the stock L28ET turbo intake manifold... because you have the cold start injector right behind the throttle body.

This is looking like a butcher "slap sum tuerbo partz together" job...

If he used the L28ET ecu harness, the black O2 sensor wire comes out of the injector harness at a yellow tape spot right about where the harness bundle touches the intake manifold.

 

Are you serious!? There is a black o2 sensor wire right where you say it is. Do you know what intake was used?

 

And ill post that pic as soon as I can

 

Heres the intake manifold

 

Ick... looks like he pieced it together one part at a time. That's the highly sought after N42 non-egr intake manifold, but I don't know why he used the stock n/a fuel rail and stuck on the cold start valve that is useless. The wiring is a mess and half the fuel / vacuum lines don't even have clamps.

Does it run?

 

Are you in Oklahoma?

That valve cover looks familiar.. think I saw it in Oklahoma City on craigslist a week or so ago..

 

yeah it runs but not well. ive been messing the maf because its just dumping fuel. i think it needs a new one but it idles pretty nice at times. with all the miss mached parts is there any way it could run like it should? im sure i can fix whatever the proplems are, iv got the skill set. Yeah he made the back half of the herness himself. im thinking about just finding a new harness and starting from scratch.

 

yeah i just bought the car off clist a week ago

 

Was it gray primered on OKC craigslist?

 

Went through all the wiring today and used actual wire connectors and everything is where it should be. However i am not getting spark. I reconnected the yellow/white stripe wire that runs to the igniter on the coil the way it should be and now im not getting spark. Should that wire be connected to a constan 12v sourse because even with the key in run its got no power to it. Please help!! thank you.

 

I have been over every wire and connection and ground and im still getting no spark. Im about to just start changing components like CAS, ECU, Coil... im just out of ideas. Any help would be great

 

Is the coil bracket securely grounded? The ignitor grounds through the bracket.

I thought you said it runs? Did you move / change / touch something?

 

It did run...:/ all i did was put on o2 sensor in and use proper wire connectors to replace the old twist and tape method done by the engine swapper. I was very careful to reconnected every wier the same as it came undone. The coil ground looked a little iffy so i cleaned it up and still no spark, However i am getting power to the black/white wire in the same "T" plug . Im pretty sure that the YEL/WHT wire is not a 12V wire, its just a signal wire. Although at this point im not to sure what i know. I may just move coil to a much better location. Could something be fried in the ECU maybe?

 

No, you aren't confused. The black w/ white stripe is 12V power, yellow is the trigger signal from the ecu.

Sounds like the ecu isn't getting power or is fried. Check to see if the green ecu LED light is coming on when the car is on (there is an inspection hole on the ecu).

 

Just out of curiosity, why did this guy sell his car? And did it ever run right? Seems like he did an awful lot of work just to get rid of it. Looks like you've got an FMIC installed and everything.

 

Well i bought it from a shop in OKC (No Grip Garage) [(GO THUNDER!)]. they needed funds for there other drift cars their building. The guy i bought it from got it with the motor, trans and everything in already and his plans for it just never worked out because of other projects. I guess he'd rather have the money. And yes, the ECU light is on and its green, however it does dim and go off when im crancking the motor. might try and track down an ecu and swap em out.

 

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...evy-hei-27569/

I suggest using skittles HEI swap.

Replace the ignitor with an HEI control module out of a chevy vette. Only $25. I had a similar problem with no spark, had 12V on the black/white wire but nothing from the yellow/white. ECU light was on. Swapped it out and got spark.

 

Im pretty sure i did this right, still nothing though. Heres a few pictures of it

 

Oh, so you do already have the HEI control module swap... If I don't forget, I'll pull out my Voltmeter and start checking the connections when I get home tonight... I have to run some errands after work

During my troubleshooting of no spark, I had pulled the distributor out but left it connected to the wiring harness. I then put the key in the 'on' position and then rotated the drive shaft of the dizzy. If the CAS/wiring/ECU are functioning you should be able to hear the injectors firing. This was helpful to me because it can be hard to hear the injectors over the sound of the starter. It may not be the best way to test, and maybe someone could pipe in. I don't recommend doing it just yet as it was running before you started to correct the wiring.

A quick check to see if the ignition relay is functioning is to see if the power windows work. They get power through the ignition relay... thats why they only work with the key in the 'on' position. But I think the ECU gets power through it too, so may not be needed.

Sorry for the vagueness, I don't have nismos memory...

 

I did it like five minutes after i read your post hah. But yeah still nothing. Do you or anyone out there think it might be the ECU? Like maybe just the circuit that is used for that wire? Another thing that i think is weird is when i hook up a 12V test light to a 12V hot wire and touch that yellow/white stripe wire with the probe it lights up?