mrgoochio

Hey guys, I did a search but I'm coming up with so many results that has the words "common rust spots" that I can't find a specific thread relating to the topic. Does anyone know a link to a common rust spot thread for 240Z's? If not, perhaps this could be it. I read a few of the common spots for the 280ZX in the '280ZX Common Problems / Checklist for Purchase Inspection' thread, but are those relative to the 240Z as well? I'm trying to purchase a 240Z right now and need some guidelines of things to inspect before purchasing. Other common things to check for besides rust would be cool to mention too. Thanks guys

Daniel

NismoPick

Yes, the 280zx checklist would also apply to the 240z... (minus the changes like fuel injection). Use all available info to your advantage.

Common rust areas on the 240z... lets see... anything metal is a common rust area on the 240z - 280zx.

Major spots... All joints, quarters, around the windows, handles, trim pieces, floor boards, frame rails, battery tray, etc...

If you are going to look at a car, just give it a full inspection. Look over the whole car & then you will know.

BoulderZ

Hey Daniel,
Yeah, that's a good indication when you search for "common rust" in this forum and you get a flood of posts. Little known fact, but the first gen Z's were actually made of rust and have been slowly turning into steel ever since. Notice how there are fewer and fewer rusty ones left each year?
Short answer: all the metal parts. I doubt there's a steel part on these cars that isn't prone to rust. Combo of 70's not-ready-yet rust-prevention chemistry, thinner steel than domestics (generally) and a few design flaws (hey, unibody was still new). Like the bottom of the hatch surround, or as my brother calls it in Seattle, "The Pond".

There's an awesome picture (from Datsun) in the "How To Restore Your Datsun Z Car" book that has all the particularly bad rust areas shaded in. That book is worth it's weight in gold for many reasons, but that diagram is great. Here's a more simplified page about it, too: http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust...ention240Z.htm

My known spots: bottom area of hatch surround, rear wheel arches, taillight surround, back panel at seam with bumper filler, inner and outer rocker panels, back inside part of front wheel wells above "frame rail" dog leg, frame rails themselves in engine bay (flat part can hold water, dirt, moisture), bottom of front fenders behind wheel, front shock towers, seams/edges of rad supports, floor pans/rails (usually due to damage and subsequent exposure to moisture), and the battery tray and it's surrounding region.
good luck,
Dave

mrgoochio

Thanks for the speedy replies guys. In the last e-mail I received, the seller said he did not have rust in the fender wells, under the hatch and engine bay, specifically under the battery and firewall. He did say that there was rust on the hood of the car when the car was being repainted some odd 4 years ago, but the hood was replaced and no bondo was used. It sounds almost too good to be true, but perhaps this really is a great conditioned Z.

At this point I have high hopes for the car, but its unfortunate I won't be back for a few weeks. The only thing is that the engine has been rebuilt, as some of you may know from my other thread. I've always been skeptical about buying a rebuild, even if it was done by a 'Z Specialist'. I'll definitely be reading more and will keep you guys posted on the car. If I purchase, zdriver gets first dibs on pics

Daniel

Edit: By the way, thanks for the link. I was about to reply to the seller with some more common spots in detail but I think I'll send him that link in hopes that he'll have a love for his Z enough to ensure its properly described when sold Hopefully he'll look over it and check it out. Of course I'll do a proper check if I go and look, but perhaps he'll be kind enough to re-assure me in the process.

redneckz

Make sure you take a magnet with you and check all body areas for bondo. Don't know about Cal. cars. Most of mine came from Colorado. Check the wheelwells and bottom of the fenders for rust. Also check for paint bubbles (rusting from the inside out). I am now down south and the cars around here rust real bad. Just think that the car is 30 years old and will have some rust to it. Just think, is it worth fixing up. How much are you willing to invest in it? Why do you check for bondo, you may ask? Well the Z (real nice paint job), I have now had some I didn't know about. I was racing with the Z club around Second Creek track in Denver, CO. After the track time was up I came back to the pits and had a safety person bring me part of my car. It was bondo off my left rear wheelwell. It had come off near his safety point. After that I found out that it had rust in both rear wheelwell areas. Not long after that I cut out the wells and added flairs. This year I have gone back in and have started taking auto body repair courses to fix and repaint it. Look at it close before investing your money. It can be a money trap for you. Good Luck, Rich.