Here goes nothing....
#29
Originally Posted by 350ZNV
You will enjoy it, however, stick with the Stage 2. Its safer and I didn't really notice a huge difference between the Stage 2 and Stage3 when I upgraded on my G. And the Stage 3 pulley is way overpriced compared to the Stage 2.
PLus 1
if safety is a concern then definatly go with stage 2...and get cams......more power with less load on the engine =]
not sure if the emanage can do it, but with cams you'll need to raise the idle a bit
#30
Originally Posted by IiQuickSilverII
PLus 1
if safety is a concern then definatly go with stage 2...and get cams......more power with less load on the engine =]
not sure if the emanage can do it, but with cams you'll need to raise the idle a bit
if safety is a concern then definatly go with stage 2...and get cams......more power with less load on the engine =]
not sure if the emanage can do it, but with cams you'll need to raise the idle a bit
#34
Originally Posted by i8acobra
Sounds like what I already suggested... or a small shot of nitrous. I don't know if I'd run nitrous on a stock bottom end with the blower. Even a small shot might push the motor over the edge.
He will use the same SC but it will give him more 15-20rwhp with increase the efficiency of the blower, adds boost in many cases, boost won't drop at hi-rpm and Lowers inlet air temps for $500 or so.
If anyone have the same SC and really want to do it just let me know.
Last edited by Stealth; 12-08-2006 at 04:42 AM.
#36
Originally Posted by Stealth
No, I won't use 2 power adders with Hypereutectic pistons and Powdered metal rods.
He will use the same SC but it will give him more 15-20rwhp with increase the efficiency of the blower, adds boost in many cases, boost won't drop at hi-rpm and Lowers inlet air temps for $500 or so.
If anyone have the same SC and really want to do it just let me know.
He will use the same SC but it will give him more 15-20rwhp with increase the efficiency of the blower, adds boost in many cases, boost won't drop at hi-rpm and Lowers inlet air temps for $500 or so.
If anyone have the same SC and really want to do it just let me know.
I don't know how much it would cost, but I'd see if Kenne Bell makes a head unit that will fit in place of the Eaton. That would be the best "mod" for the Stillen kit. I geuss P&P'ing the Eaton would be my second choice.
#38
Originally Posted by Nforce1
Stage 3 pulley, Do you have a suggestion for which new plugs to run?
#40
Originally Posted by Nforce1
What about that "safety" we were talkin about a few posts up lol
#41
Im getting the kit used. Its coming with the stage 3 pulley. Also, the kit is coming with the emanage ultimate box. The guy Im buying it from doesnt have the stillen box anymore. Which is awesome for me since the emanage ultimate like a $500 value. He said that the emanage is already tuned for the stage 3 anyway.
Im just trying to think of everything Im going to need before I go down to VRT to install it so I wont have to be looking for things and getting things shipped in while being intsalled
Im just trying to think of everything Im going to need before I go down to VRT to install it so I wont have to be looking for things and getting things shipped in while being intsalled
#42
^^^If it has the emanage, thats even safer because you can custom tune it to your specific application whereas the Split Second box that comes with the Stillen is locked. Have VRT check the tuning on it and re-tune if necessary. The extra $$$ for that is worth the re-assurance that your motor will be safe.
By the way, I think I have some extra belts lying around if you want them.
By the way, I think I have some extra belts lying around if you want them.
#43
That would be great the less money I have to spend, especially for the small things would be great. How much do they charge for tuning? Im just trying to get a figure of how much money I need to go down there with.
#44
Originally Posted by Nforce1
That would be great the less money I have to spend, especially for the small things would be great. How much do they charge for tuning? Im just trying to get a figure of how much money I need to go down there with.
I will see if I can find the belts and bring them to Toy Drive for you.
#45
Originally Posted by 350ZNV
Beats me. Call and ask. I don't think Jim Wolf would be doing the tuning, probably their head mechanic Mark. Its cheaper than a blown motor though. Where is the kit coming from? Chacnces are, it will be tuned for the climate and altitude where it is coming from and even worse, it could be tuned for 93 octane as opposed to the crap 91 octane we get here on the left coast.
I will see if I can find the belts and bring them to Toy Drive for you.
I will see if I can find the belts and bring them to Toy Drive for you.
Its comin out from houston texas. This was totally an impulse buy. Ive talked about going FI, but never actually thought it would happen. But after I saw how great of a deal I was getting, I said what the heck, go for it
#46
i may guess around 600 for the dyno tune, but don't go cheap there, who just dunno what type of tune was in that car b4. In any case i would think the tune will actually be cheaper if you can just modify the current tune there, that way it wont take much time
And yeah with stage 2 do not worry about safely(i think with stage 1,2 you keep your warranty) other than mainly the tune... i don't even think you need to upgrade your fuel pump or injectors... i guess id be nice if you get a walbro at least
Make sure you always get good gas... if you want an added safety there and also a lil more power you can run methanol injection like i do, but it kinda becomes a pain to have to get the methanol....
other than that..your clutch should be fine... should be "rather easy", relativly speaking
on the gas also you want the af as close to 11.1 as possbile since as mentione the gas sucks here
And yeah with stage 2 do not worry about safely(i think with stage 1,2 you keep your warranty) other than mainly the tune... i don't even think you need to upgrade your fuel pump or injectors... i guess id be nice if you get a walbro at least
Make sure you always get good gas... if you want an added safety there and also a lil more power you can run methanol injection like i do, but it kinda becomes a pain to have to get the methanol....
other than that..your clutch should be fine... should be "rather easy", relativly speaking
on the gas also you want the af as close to 11.1 as possbile since as mentione the gas sucks here