I just purchased a Modified 1971 240-Z. Finally got the car to run (it sat for 7 yrs). My question is I have replaced the brake master cylinder (leaking) and all the rubber flex brake lines. I have a firm petal which sometimes get stuck down (keeping the brakes on). And no power brakes (I have to stand on the petal to brake). Is this my Servo Booster? And if so, can I change this out with out breaking the master cylinder from the brakelines? On a short road test (car not registered yet) I noticed a clunk from the back of the car over bumps, sounded like it was higher up, possibly strut tower mounts? Are there any areas prone to excessive wear(noise) in the rear suspension? Can't wait to get this thing on the road. I now understand the following! These cars are unbelievable. Thanks, Kurt.

1971 240 Z Green/Butterscotch
2.4L Stage ? Cam, 3 Weber 40-DCOE's, Header, 5-Speed, Lowered?, Thick(red) swaybars, 14" Minilite wheels, some ground effects and a tail.

 

You won't be able to remove the booster without pulling the master cyclinder. If the brakes are sticking, you should service the whole system, pull the wheel cylinders and purge the brake fluid. As for all the other stuff, dive under and you will see what your in for! Good luck

 

Thanks for the advice. I actually pulled the vacuum hose leading to the booster and found there was not a lot of pressure. The hose leads to the Weber manifold on only one port? There is another "capped port" which I am thinking of tieing into the booster for more vacuum? I am going to try everything before the new booster? The car aparently ran fine prior to sitting outside for 7-years. Also have a question about wheels? The Minilite wheels have metal wheel shimes on the front? I removed them and found the rims came in contact with the tierod end? Could these be giving me a shimy at 30 mph? I am getting the wheels balanced at this writing. Trial and error. This thing is nickel and diming me to death, but I still find myself out in the garage. Thanks, Kurt.

 

The shimmy is cause by a "dynamic" imbalance of your wheels and old tires. It usually occurs between 30 and 45 mph and then smooths out at higher speeds. Personally I would not drive a car that has been sitting that long untill I had checked it from front to back, especially the brakes. Brakes that stick or don't stop could put you into a parked car! Nickels and dimes? Here comes Franklin and Jackson.

 

Thanks for all the advice Guys. The brake problem turned out to be my check valve was in backwards. Dumb ***. I also tied the vacuum line into two of the Weber intake tubes(more vacuum). I now have brake petal. It sometimes sticks? The rear end is complete(all straps, and bushings). I am going to retorque all bolts. My biggest concern is the shimmy. I had the two front wheels spin ballanced(tires are brand new but sat for 7-yrs) and they were fine. The shimmy seems to be intermitent? There is a very slight amout of play which seems to be from the rack? Tie rod ends I regreased and installed new boots(seemed fairly tight). Can I tighten the rack from behind that large cap and lock nut(dam that thing is tight)? Wheel lugs are tight. There is no play between the steering wheel and U-joints to the rack. Wheel bearings are tight. What the Hell! I am going to get the car registered in a few weeks and would like to get most of the "Bugs" ironed out. Thank you in advance. Kurt.

1971 240 with 106K on the odometer. I like the way 6K looks better!

 

I feel bad grilling you guys for advice, but I have a few more questions? My tach does not work? Where is that thing wired to? Also my temp gauge doesn't work, again where does that wire to? And lastly, my fuel gauge worked prior to having my tank relined(don't think they removed the sending unit). Is it possible there is tank lining "stuff" on the float making it sink? How do you remove that sending unit, is there a trick? You guys are so helpful. Thanks, Kurt.

 

The steering rack backlash is adjustable, but first you need to check for play in the rest of the steering components. To be sure I disconnected the joke on the pinion shaft on the rack. This way I could feel the actual backlash with my finger tips and not get a false reading from all the other things from the steering wheel to the balljoints. Next to the pinion is a large slotted screw with a locknut. Make small adjustments untill it feels right.
The gas tank has to come out so take it to the guys that messed it up.
Time for you to invest in some good repair manuals too. Clymer prints one for '70-'74 only and it is more in depth than some others that cover 20 years.

 

After crawling around on my back checking every bolt on the front end and stearing, also repacking the bearings; it came down to the Rack. Thank you. Only problem is that nut is a real bear to get loose. I am wearing battle scars from trying with the wrong tools. Tonight it will be done. The mechanism that holds the fuel sending unit in the tank, is called a "bayonet" how does it work. Do I just tap it with a screw driver and hammer? Or do I have to bend over some tabs? Mine is covered with black paint and undercoat its hard to see. Thank you again. Kurt.

 

It turns out it is not the steering rack but the inner Tie-rods. Still expensive. Do they only sell the whole assembly or can I just get the inner ones? Outers are tight. Kurt.

 

Victoria British sells the whole assembly for $425 with core, or you can find a good one at the junk yard. Up to '78 will fit with one minor modification you can do yourself, or check your private messages.