I have had probablems with the Bosch electronic fuel injection (like most people) I took it into the shop last fall after my cars ignition kept cutting out speraticly after the engine had heated up. Symptons were ignition cutting 3 or 4 times a second for maybe 10-15 seconds, then running clear for another 20 seconds, then doing it again. Makes acceleration almost impossible and breakes traction when foot full on the gas, when the engine cuts back in. Anyways I had it fixed last fall at a fairly reputable shop and after them trying to find the problem they said it was a temp sensor, and I took my car home and it was fine, only once in awhile for a brief second had I seen these symptons in the last year when i was really driving my engine hard, so to say that it was fixed is a fair assumption. But last week it started again out of the blue and I really just want to get rid of this problem. Now if a shop finds that its the same problem as before and fixes it (a cheap $30 fix for the sensor) whats gonna make me think its not gonna happen again? That is why I am starting to think about Carburators. Ofcourse you have to tune those things too, but I dont really see those having the same "gremlin" like problems i've been having. I know some tripple Webers don't rim cheap, but i'd like to know, compared to the stock EFI , will they produce more horsepower for the money?
Paul Newmans Dan Deardorfs 280zx's that raced in IMSA and the SCCA had over 300hp with the Carbs, they changed them out because they found the EFI too restrictive. Makes me wonder

 

Hmmm, I thought it may have been vapor lock at one point, Ive heard some people that have had these cars back in the day with that problem, but even when the engine kills it makes a clicking type of switch sound as if it thinks its still running which is cutting off fuel flow from the fuel pump and it happends in cold weather too so that pretty much cancels out vapor lock. But yeah, I have no experience with carbs, just lots of badluck with ignition components. I found out last night that if i ran the engine below 2000rpm it wouldnt start cutting out and if i did a little over it would do it slightly, and it was a fairly cool night, so all i gotta do is drive it on cool nights and never go over 2000 rpm! I think I will take it to the shop soon and see what they say, see if I get the same jargon.

 

Ice, the ignition modual doesnt come with the distributor does it, its a seperate piece? (I will have to go take a look) my distributor itself is only 2 years old, the coil from what i hear is maybe 5 or 6 years old tops.

 

The triple Webers will cost you, but they have a lot more go in them than the FI. I noticed a lot more power, especially at high rpm's, after swapping to the Webers on my '79 a few years ago. I think I paid around $1200 for the Weber kit from NOPI, who had the best price at the time. Then I paid a couple hundred for the K&N air cleaners, then I paid a couple hundred for a mechanical advance distributor (you can use the stock distributor if you go with the Mikunis), and then I don't know how much I spent in jets when I was tuning the things. You'll also spend another hundred or so in a fuel pump, regulator, and misc smaller parts. When I finally got the carbs tuned right though, the car ran like I couldn't believe though.

Something else to consider... I believe Weber is now building sidedraft DCOE style FI systems. I don't know anything about them or how well they perform.

 

OK thanks