COULD I HAVE A SOLUTION>?!?!?!?!?!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 320
COULD I HAVE A SOLUTION>?!?!?!?!?!
well, i have an original thread on what the problem could be, and it sorta died, so here it is if you wonder what im talking about: CLICK ME!
well, i thought it through, and tell me if this makes sense why it would do this, ignore the oil levels stuff, has nothing to do with it, could the problems i am having have to do with my wastegate, because it really seems like im building too much back pressure in the manifold, making this popping noise when i push it too hard, so im thinking the wastegate isnt opening and is stuck, sound like this could be the problem????
well, i thought it through, and tell me if this makes sense why it would do this, ignore the oil levels stuff, has nothing to do with it, could the problems i am having have to do with my wastegate, because it really seems like im building too much back pressure in the manifold, making this popping noise when i push it too hard, so im thinking the wastegate isnt opening and is stuck, sound like this could be the problem????
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,485
From: Temecula, CA
If it were stuck open (the wastegate) then yeah, that would cause the problem in the other thread. Stuck open= no boost. Which is what I was eluding too anyways. But remember that adding oil helped and that wouldn't have anything to do with the wastegate. And what Rod said makes sense too. If the exhaust is blocked up then the turbo cant spool, so you get no boost which goes back to the original problem again.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,485
From: Temecula, CA
Is your cat bolted on or welded? If it's bolted on then try disconnecting it and see if that helps. You can also get a hand vacuum pump and use it to see if the wastegate is jammed. Another thing you can do is use a stethoscope to the center housing of the turbo to listen for any bad sounds to see if the center housing is going out.
The Good Twin
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
To put my 2 bits in... if the wastegate is stuck, you will have one of two things happen:
Stuck open: No, or very little boost. What does your boost gauge say at full throttle???
Stuck closed: Well... if you hold @ full throttle all during acceleration, your boost will go wild & your POV should open (again... what is you boost gauge reading?)
I highly doubt that it's stuck half way open (or closed), as it is always moving during normal driving.
If it's the sluggishness that we're still talking about... I would guess that the a/f ratio might be wack.
If you still think that adding oil helped... that means you a really pushing the limit on low or dirty oil. When was the last oil change?
Stuck open: No, or very little boost. What does your boost gauge say at full throttle???
Stuck closed: Well... if you hold @ full throttle all during acceleration, your boost will go wild & your POV should open (again... what is you boost gauge reading?)
I highly doubt that it's stuck half way open (or closed), as it is always moving during normal driving.
If it's the sluggishness that we're still talking about... I would guess that the a/f ratio might be wack.
If you still think that adding oil helped... that means you a really pushing the limit on low or dirty oil. When was the last oil change?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 320
Originally Posted by NismoPick
To put my 2 bits in... if the wastegate is stuck, you will have one of two things happen:
Stuck open: No, or very little boost. What does your boost gauge say at full throttle???
Stuck closed: Well... if you hold @ full throttle all during acceleration, your boost will go wild & your POV should open (again... what is you boost gauge reading?)
I highly doubt that it's stuck half way open (or closed), as it is always moving during normal driving.
If it's the sluggishness that we're still talking about... I would guess that the a/f ratio might be wack.
If you still think that adding oil helped... that means you a really pushing the limit on low or dirty oil. When was the last oil change?
Stuck open: No, or very little boost. What does your boost gauge say at full throttle???
Stuck closed: Well... if you hold @ full throttle all during acceleration, your boost will go wild & your POV should open (again... what is you boost gauge reading?)
I highly doubt that it's stuck half way open (or closed), as it is always moving during normal driving.
If it's the sluggishness that we're still talking about... I would guess that the a/f ratio might be wack.
If you still think that adding oil helped... that means you a really pushing the limit on low or dirty oil. When was the last oil change?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 320
Originally Posted by jfairladyz
Is your cat bolted on or welded? If it's bolted on then try disconnecting it and see if that helps. You can also get a hand vacuum pump and use it to see if the wastegate is jammed. Another thing you can do is use a stethoscope to the center housing of the turbo to listen for any bad sounds to see if the center housing is going out.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 320
well....its not doing it anymore....????? but you cant really read what the boost is, the needle bounces once it begins to go into positive....but the problem stopped last night.....i dunno...its done it before and went away, so i know its just going to come back, could that mean anything, coming and going like that??
Doesn't post much...
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,617
From: Escondido (San Diego) California
Intermittant runability issues are almost never mechanical in nature. In other words, if your car runs great sometimes and like caca other times... it's probably more like an electrical problem or a bad sensor/switch/relay... Broken or damaged mechanical parts don't fix themselves...
Rod.
Rod.
The Good Twin
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Have you made sure your boost gauge is calibrated right?
With the key at the "ON" position, but not started, the boost gauge should be straight up, aka ZERO. If it's not, then you need to get a small flat head screwdriver & adjust it, by pulling down the black plastic top of the glovebox & find the blue & white wire w/ the diode box clamped onto the wire. There will be a small dial in the middle to adjust the gauge back to Zero.
Like Rod said: Intermittant problems are 99% electronic. Check all your sensor harnesses, ECU harness, and major grounds. Anywhere that has even slight corrosion: put some di-electric grease on the connection.
The only other thing I can think of, is that your wastegate might not be getting the right vacuum signal. Have you checked your vacuum hoses? Also you should get a hand vacuum / pressure pump & attach it to the wastegate hose to make sure it opens @ ~6.5psi
With the key at the "ON" position, but not started, the boost gauge should be straight up, aka ZERO. If it's not, then you need to get a small flat head screwdriver & adjust it, by pulling down the black plastic top of the glovebox & find the blue & white wire w/ the diode box clamped onto the wire. There will be a small dial in the middle to adjust the gauge back to Zero.
Like Rod said: Intermittant problems are 99% electronic. Check all your sensor harnesses, ECU harness, and major grounds. Anywhere that has even slight corrosion: put some di-electric grease on the connection.
The only other thing I can think of, is that your wastegate might not be getting the right vacuum signal. Have you checked your vacuum hoses? Also you should get a hand vacuum / pressure pump & attach it to the wastegate hose to make sure it opens @ ~6.5psi
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 320
Originally Posted by NismoPick
Have you made sure your boost gauge is calibrated right?
With the key at the "ON" position, but not started, the boost gauge should be straight up, aka ZERO. If it's not, then you need to get a small flat head screwdriver & adjust it, by pulling down the black plastic top of the glovebox & find the blue & white wire w/ the diode box clamped onto the wire. There will be a small dial in the middle to adjust the gauge back to Zero.
Like Rod said: Intermittant problems are 99% electronic. Check all your sensor harnesses, ECU harness, and major grounds. Anywhere that has even slight corrosion: put some di-electric grease on the connection.
The only other thing I can think of, is that your wastegate might not be getting the right vacuum signal. Have you checked your vacuum hoses? Also you should get a hand vacuum / pressure pump & attach it to the wastegate hose to make sure it opens @ ~6.5psi
With the key at the "ON" position, but not started, the boost gauge should be straight up, aka ZERO. If it's not, then you need to get a small flat head screwdriver & adjust it, by pulling down the black plastic top of the glovebox & find the blue & white wire w/ the diode box clamped onto the wire. There will be a small dial in the middle to adjust the gauge back to Zero.
Like Rod said: Intermittant problems are 99% electronic. Check all your sensor harnesses, ECU harness, and major grounds. Anywhere that has even slight corrosion: put some di-electric grease on the connection.
The only other thing I can think of, is that your wastegate might not be getting the right vacuum signal. Have you checked your vacuum hoses? Also you should get a hand vacuum / pressure pump & attach it to the wastegate hose to make sure it opens @ ~6.5psi
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
barrywood 24/7
280ZX (S130) Forums
1
Jul 14, 2006 08:52 AM
S13Sean
280ZX Performance / Technical
17
Sep 21, 2003 05:40 PM
Bookmarks
