Looking for a 280ZX Checklist?
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 293
From: south georgia
Looking for a 280ZX Checklist?
I am looking for a checklist to make sure that I check all the important stuff when inspecting a used ZX to purchase. Also, any hints and tricks to make sure that I check all of the common problems that might otherwise be overlooked. I tried to create my own, but i know i am leaving a lot of important stuff out. If anyone knows of a link to one or have one, I would appreciate it.
The Evil Twin
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 9,297
From: Seattle, WA
excessive valve ticking. Have the owner do a valve clearance adjustment. If the ticking remains, then the rocker arms are probably bad... or the cam.
oil pressure gauge not working right... bad sending unit usually
parking brake not working right... rear cable gets stuck or rear calipers often have problems moreso than the front calipers. Rear calipers cost more to replace and/or rebuild.
start it up COLD. many ZX's have cold start problems. Won't start very quickly, won't idle high (1000, 1100 rpm) or idle fine but too low when cold.
engine should not backfire when revved in neutral... more noticable when cold. Should have instant throttle repsonse once warmed up. good torque usually means a good engine.
listen for pinging. If the engine is stock, it should not ping under load even on low octaine fuel.
water leaks! T-top cars often have leaks at the outter corners. seals are very expensive and often do not correct the problem.
Check window regulators. Roll up and down all the way both door windows. power windows too. check them.
check all lights!!! don't assume the brake lights work, check them and turn signals front and rear.
rust. bottom edge of fender, lower rocker panels, up inside all four fenders, behind fender lips. run your hand in there and check. Hopefully there' sno buildup of dirt... plants growing inside the nooks of the fenders? probably rust behind it.
tranny should be quiet while driving. humming could mean low fluid or the tranny is going out. (manual) auto... if it engagues and shifts fine, then I guess its good
if it is an 82/83 model, it might have the voice warning system. Open right and left doors while moving over 10 mph. see if the lady talks. leave the headlights on and take the key out, open the door. She should yell at you!
factory radios often go out. power button problems. If its the stock radio, see if it works... there are no kits to plug in aftermarket CD players so you'll be custom wiring one if you go that route yourself.
look for evidence of a radiator leak. owners often let these go and fill it with water every week. cheap! Radiator are only $180 new.
rear end clunk when taking off and whenletting off the gas. This is very common but not a big problem. I've been driving with this issue a long time. Most common fix is new differential bushings to mount it up. Sometimes its the u-joints in the half shafts...
sagging rear? the stock springs are old and weak. could use all new springs. 1" lowering springs will tighten up the suspension a little and level the car out. those are a good purchase for around $200.
mushy suspension. push down on the four corners. If the car bounces like its on a waterbed, then the shocks are bad. You can buy new springs and shocks in a package together for less than $400. That's a good purchase.
cracked dash is common. Heat inside the car expands the foam under the outter layer. New crack free dashes are very expensive. You can get a plastic overlay for less than $100 that looks good. I'm using one on my black dash.
Black interrior pieces are hardest to find in good shape. Note every interrior panel that looks bad or is missing. If it matters to you...
Power mirrors: if it has power mirrors, check the movement horizontal and vertical on both doors.
dents: look carefully at each panel at an angle. You want to note all body damage and be sure you're paying a fair price. Please try to not inspect a car at night or in the rain if at all possible. I actually purchased a car, brought it home and didn't notice several large dings in the passenger door untill days later!!! DOH! and I looked at it in the daylight...
Rear brake calipers 'clicking' while moving. (foot not on brakes) this is common. The design of the calipers allows the brake pads to move a little. very slightly warp in the rotors causes the pads to click. Not really and issue and doesn't nessisarily mean something is broken. They may still click with new rotors and new pads. Brake pad anti-squeal goop will stop the ticking for a couple thousand miles... but it'll come back eventually.
Steering wheel shakes: very common issue, hard to get rid of. Steering wheel shakes while you drive. Sometimes at certain speeds, sometimes only when pressing on the brakes. Sometimes when braking lightly but not hard, sometimes only braking hard, sometimes always when braking.
Many causes of this: out of balance wheels/ tires warn odd, needs new tires or maybe just a re-balance.
Bad inner and/or outer tie rod ends on the steering rack: bad steering rack mount bushings, bad lower ball joints on the struts.
Worn out sway bar bushings can do this slightly
oil pressure gauge not working right... bad sending unit usually
parking brake not working right... rear cable gets stuck or rear calipers often have problems moreso than the front calipers. Rear calipers cost more to replace and/or rebuild.
start it up COLD. many ZX's have cold start problems. Won't start very quickly, won't idle high (1000, 1100 rpm) or idle fine but too low when cold.
engine should not backfire when revved in neutral... more noticable when cold. Should have instant throttle repsonse once warmed up. good torque usually means a good engine.
listen for pinging. If the engine is stock, it should not ping under load even on low octaine fuel.
water leaks! T-top cars often have leaks at the outter corners. seals are very expensive and often do not correct the problem.
Check window regulators. Roll up and down all the way both door windows. power windows too. check them.
check all lights!!! don't assume the brake lights work, check them and turn signals front and rear.
rust. bottom edge of fender, lower rocker panels, up inside all four fenders, behind fender lips. run your hand in there and check. Hopefully there' sno buildup of dirt... plants growing inside the nooks of the fenders? probably rust behind it.
tranny should be quiet while driving. humming could mean low fluid or the tranny is going out. (manual) auto... if it engagues and shifts fine, then I guess its good
if it is an 82/83 model, it might have the voice warning system. Open right and left doors while moving over 10 mph. see if the lady talks. leave the headlights on and take the key out, open the door. She should yell at you!
factory radios often go out. power button problems. If its the stock radio, see if it works... there are no kits to plug in aftermarket CD players so you'll be custom wiring one if you go that route yourself.
look for evidence of a radiator leak. owners often let these go and fill it with water every week. cheap! Radiator are only $180 new.
rear end clunk when taking off and whenletting off the gas. This is very common but not a big problem. I've been driving with this issue a long time. Most common fix is new differential bushings to mount it up. Sometimes its the u-joints in the half shafts...
sagging rear? the stock springs are old and weak. could use all new springs. 1" lowering springs will tighten up the suspension a little and level the car out. those are a good purchase for around $200.
mushy suspension. push down on the four corners. If the car bounces like its on a waterbed, then the shocks are bad. You can buy new springs and shocks in a package together for less than $400. That's a good purchase.
cracked dash is common. Heat inside the car expands the foam under the outter layer. New crack free dashes are very expensive. You can get a plastic overlay for less than $100 that looks good. I'm using one on my black dash.
Black interrior pieces are hardest to find in good shape. Note every interrior panel that looks bad or is missing. If it matters to you...
Power mirrors: if it has power mirrors, check the movement horizontal and vertical on both doors.
dents: look carefully at each panel at an angle. You want to note all body damage and be sure you're paying a fair price. Please try to not inspect a car at night or in the rain if at all possible. I actually purchased a car, brought it home and didn't notice several large dings in the passenger door untill days later!!! DOH! and I looked at it in the daylight...
Rear brake calipers 'clicking' while moving. (foot not on brakes) this is common. The design of the calipers allows the brake pads to move a little. very slightly warp in the rotors causes the pads to click. Not really and issue and doesn't nessisarily mean something is broken. They may still click with new rotors and new pads. Brake pad anti-squeal goop will stop the ticking for a couple thousand miles... but it'll come back eventually.
Steering wheel shakes: very common issue, hard to get rid of. Steering wheel shakes while you drive. Sometimes at certain speeds, sometimes only when pressing on the brakes. Sometimes when braking lightly but not hard, sometimes only braking hard, sometimes always when braking.
Many causes of this: out of balance wheels/ tires warn odd, needs new tires or maybe just a re-balance.
Bad inner and/or outer tie rod ends on the steering rack: bad steering rack mount bushings, bad lower ball joints on the struts.
Worn out sway bar bushings can do this slightly
Last edited by Bleach; Jan 6, 2006 at 10:46 AM.
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