Engine Setback in FP
Thanks Tom. I wish the new rules would be finalized so I could figure a direction. I noticed that the Z might be removed from EP. I think someone on this site was building a car to those specs. It sure is hard to hit the SCCA's moving target.
The intent of the current proposed revisions is to get the rules to a point where they WILL be stable for the foreseeable future. If you build a car to the current rules, it will still be legal when the rules change. (unless you get too far into the current grey zones).
I do seem to remember someone building an EP Z, All I can to say to him is, write an email to the Solo Events Board. They don't get many on Prepared proposals, so a little noise can go a long way. Especially if it's someone saying 'I'm building a car to for X class. Please do not remove it from the class.' My friend on the Prepared Advisory Committee, told me my letter was one of only 2 or 3 letters from the FP community and about the only one that said more than "sounds good to me!"
Tom
I do seem to remember someone building an EP Z, All I can to say to him is, write an email to the Solo Events Board. They don't get many on Prepared proposals, so a little noise can go a long way. Especially if it's someone saying 'I'm building a car to for X class. Please do not remove it from the class.' My friend on the Prepared Advisory Committee, told me my letter was one of only 2 or 3 letters from the FP community and about the only one that said more than "sounds good to me!"
Tom
On kind of a side note. I moved the motor back in my Z with the GT2 rules in mind. I must say, I'd be very interested to see what a unibody Z looks like with the #1 plug inline with the spindles. Without doing some major firewall reconstruction, the most I could muster was 2", with what looks like another 4 to go to achieve this. Plus there was already a clearance issue with the Nissan Comp header on the bottom corner by the gas pedal. Any further back than 2", and no more gas pedal.
I know of someone who slotted their stock mount holes for the engine and tranny and slid it back taking up the slop on the driveshaft. A mild engine setback almost legal.
He no longer is competeing. Do you have any pictures of how you did your engine and tranny mounts?
He no longer is competeing. Do you have any pictures of how you did your engine and tranny mounts?
Now that the car is pretty much complete, I plan on adding another round of pictures to my gallery, but I'm still living in the dark ages with no digital camera...usually have Walgreens put the photos on CD.
Anyway not to be dick, but I realize Dave's old car was this way, but it was not a unibody car like I stated. I guess he just sold it, man I wish I could have afforded it!
Phil
Anyway not to be dick, but I realize Dave's old car was this way, but it was not a unibody car like I stated. I guess he just sold it, man I wish I could have afforded it!
Phil
Phil, your car looks great. What are your plans with it? It looks set up for open track. I am waiting for the rules to change in FP to buy my rule book, but if I remember correctly you aren't allowed to modify the firewall. If you did modify a unibody and ran the headers over the transmission you would have a small pedal box but it could be done. I have seen it done with a V8 autocross 510 setback to almost mid engine and the same done with a turbo rotary 510 both running E Modified.
Thanks for the compliment. My plans are solo1, and ultimately vintage wheel to wheel racing. Both will most likely be with with Midwest Council. I do plan on doing a little autocrossing, in FP. I'll most likely be the only one in my class, so I don't expect any heat with legality, plus it's more just for a break in.
It looks like your car is going to be really nice. I'd love to have those Panasports!
Anyway, back to the unibody issue. Your right, it can probably be done, but not without some major time and effort, more than I was willing to put into it.
Phil
It looks like your car is going to be really nice. I'd love to have those Panasports!
Anyway, back to the unibody issue. Your right, it can probably be done, but not without some major time and effort, more than I was willing to put into it.
Phil
Originally Posted by zlalomz
I know of someone who slotted their stock mount holes for the engine and tranny and slid it back taking up the slop on the driveshaft. A mild engine setback almost legal.
He no longer is competeing. Do you have any pictures of how you did your engine and tranny mounts?
He no longer is competeing. Do you have any pictures of how you did your engine and tranny mounts?Even with the GT-2 weight hit in SoloII I think this is a better way to go as I'm way faster than I was with a standard engine position. Less mass to move in front.
Cary
Originally Posted by zlalomz
Cary,
I'm blind! I can't see the pictures, I want to see the pictures,where are the pictures?
I'm blind! I can't see the pictures, I want to see the pictures,where are the pictures?
Cary
Here is a trick for a rounded edge engine box for setback. All the ones I have seen use an angle iron cage with aluminum riveted on. You could section the wheel barrow to narrow it for our engines. He did the opposite for his wide engine with tall valve covers.
Finally took some pics of my mounts. Also have some other pics in my gallery if anyone is interested.
https://www.zdriver.com/gallery/show...=500&password=
https://www.zdriver.com/gallery/show...=500&password=
Last edited by preith; Jul 25, 2004 at 07:42 PM.
On your engine mounts it looks like 2 different thicknesses? With the bracing they look very strong for any for and aft shifting. I have never used solid mounts. I would be interested in your experiences with them on the track.
Yep. I'm not much of an engineer, but I figured the section that would take the most force was the inner part. Basically the plate against the motor, the inner or middle brace, and the gusset are 1/4" plate, the remainder 1/8".
When drew up the plans, I just traced the stock mount, added the insulator's thickness, and then based the shape off of that, they turned out pretty good. Anything further back than 2", and I'd probably weld the mounts off the frame rail like Cary said.
I have driven the car on the street, an autocross, and a "test and tune" at Gingerman. I'm surprised how little attention it draws on the street. Until the numbers go on, I'll be ok!
I've heard so many nightmare stories about solid mounts, but I love 'em. Vibration isn't too bad at all. Frankly I'm a bit surprised. Maybe one reason why is the cam isn't as aggresive as it could be, .560 lift, 300 duration. The trans mount is solid as well as the solid diff mount.
With the bare interior (no sound deading), the motor is very loud and drowns out just about anything else! I can go without ear plugs with a helmet, but forget about without! Plus I'm only running 12 discs in the 'ol Supertrapps, I plan on adding more (louder, less backpressure) and then it'll be unbearable.
EDIT: I forgot to mention the shifter. The stock 280ZX one, which is pretty much straight, worked perfectly. Plus it's shorter.
When drew up the plans, I just traced the stock mount, added the insulator's thickness, and then based the shape off of that, they turned out pretty good. Anything further back than 2", and I'd probably weld the mounts off the frame rail like Cary said.
I have driven the car on the street, an autocross, and a "test and tune" at Gingerman. I'm surprised how little attention it draws on the street. Until the numbers go on, I'll be ok!
I've heard so many nightmare stories about solid mounts, but I love 'em. Vibration isn't too bad at all. Frankly I'm a bit surprised. Maybe one reason why is the cam isn't as aggresive as it could be, .560 lift, 300 duration. The trans mount is solid as well as the solid diff mount.
With the bare interior (no sound deading), the motor is very loud and drowns out just about anything else! I can go without ear plugs with a helmet, but forget about without! Plus I'm only running 12 discs in the 'ol Supertrapps, I plan on adding more (louder, less backpressure) and then it'll be unbearable.
EDIT: I forgot to mention the shifter. The stock 280ZX one, which is pretty much straight, worked perfectly. Plus it's shorter.
Last edited by preith; Jul 26, 2004 at 07:13 PM.
I forgot to mention, the wheel barrel is a novel idea, but my first reaction was what thickness is it? I wouldn't think twice about welding anything thicker than 20 gauge. Just some food for thought.
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