Brake Pedals and Master Cylinders
#1
Brake Pedals and Master Cylinders
Replacing the pedals and master cylinders and steering column and stuff real soon now. Thinking of getting the 5:1 Wilwood reverse mount hanging pedals (Or should I get the longer pedals?). What size brake and clutch master cylinders do you recommend? Go with 7/8 on the brakes and clutch or ???
I am using stock brakes and stock clutch slave.
I am using stock brakes and stock clutch slave.
#2
I had friend (Vitek) who went with the Wilwood stuff and ended up switching over to the Tilton master cylinders. I can't remember if he had a problem but I know he ended up swapping them out a few times seeking the right balance. The Tiltons are modular so you can easily replace a master cylinder without having to mess with the pedals or reservoirs. ("Easily" being a relative term here)
Master cylinder size will depend on what the calipers dimensions are. Check out my site for the Excel spreadsheet that can help you with all of the math. http://sth2.com/Z-car/Brakemath.xls Currently I run 3/4" cylinders front and rear... I can't recall on the clutch, but that's only going to determine the pedal travel. I can try and take a look one of these nights... I am considering trying 5/8" MCs on the brakes to soften pedal effort a bit and provide a little more feel...
Tom
Master cylinder size will depend on what the calipers dimensions are. Check out my site for the Excel spreadsheet that can help you with all of the math. http://sth2.com/Z-car/Brakemath.xls Currently I run 3/4" cylinders front and rear... I can't recall on the clutch, but that's only going to determine the pedal travel. I can try and take a look one of these nights... I am considering trying 5/8" MCs on the brakes to soften pedal effort a bit and provide a little more feel...
Tom
#3
Good to know. The Tiltons look like they aren't that much more (maybe $35 more) than the Wilwood.
So it sounds like I might like to try a M/C smaller than stock. I've been using the stock M/C with the booster disconnected as I felt that it was a bit too much, and I was locking up a lot, but without the booster, I'm not locking up so much anymore, but it takes a lot of leg to get the brakes working.
So it sounds like I might like to try a M/C smaller than stock. I've been using the stock M/C with the booster disconnected as I felt that it was a bit too much, and I was locking up a lot, but without the booster, I'm not locking up so much anymore, but it takes a lot of leg to get the brakes working.
#4
This thread came up right when I was thinking about using he remote set up like Toms. I just viewed his 2003 Tour video and was watching the fluid in his resevoir moving from side to side and front and back. I was planning on incorperating the
pedal assembly with the cage.
Thanks for the information Tom !!!!
A long season worth of thrashing for me it looks like... maybe 2005 Topeka .
Just picked up a one ton Dually pull rig
pedal assembly with the cage.
Thanks for the information Tom !!!!
A long season worth of thrashing for me it looks like... maybe 2005 Topeka .
Just picked up a one ton Dually pull rig
#5
I cornerweighted my car again and it definitely looks like my chassis tweak is getting worse. Time to put the sawsall and the welder to work. The pedalbox is in the way so it will get hacked off. Still trying to resist the urge to hop up the motor until I'm happy with the rest of the car.
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