DeathByNissan55

Hi everybody,
I'm selling my cali 77 280z with under 80000 original miles, in order to get another one needing less body work because I'm not a body mechanic and dont have time or money to keep her from rusting.

Car is stripped besides engine bay and dash and majority of electrical. Rear bumper mounting points have been fiberglassed over and shaved, quarters (and possibly rockers) were replaced with datsun original panels, then fiber glassed over then initial passes of filler and sanding started. Comes with fiber glass fenders and headlight dishes that need a small amount of attention where there are some tiny cracks to be reglassed, driver door and hood have patches welded in, comes with a full good driver door minus the door card, and a the original hatch is a lil too thin to warrant rust repair so I have a good fully assembled one with glass that matches that new door, comes with a full (to my knowledge its all there, i wasnt the one who stripped it) tan interior. Pass floor pan and rail will probably need to be replaced, driver side had a patch panel welded in and it isnt weak so should just be sealed.

I replaced all the tiny fuel hoses on the fuel rail and around fuel filter, replaced fuel filter, air filter, fuel pump (rewired it as well), new brakes besides front calipers all the way around were installed years ago and car was just sitting so just need to break surf rust loose, just replaced the driver side wheel cylinder and line and will need pass side wheel cylinder or line (theres a leak and didnt look where fluid was coming from), new brake and clutch masters (brake by me, clutch by prev owner), newer clutch assy., newer spark plugs. Havent checked compression but will check before sale.

No idea of electrical condition of car, pretty sure it needs alternator or battery cuz now I'm having trouble starting it. Do not want to invest in more parts because if I dont sell this car I'm planning on doing entire drivetrain swap. I will see if I can get one of my extra alternators rebuilt to be higher output for cheap and see if i can get a cheap battery from salvage yard.

Besides pass wheel cylinder and body work, it needs new tires, probably all new door seals/glass seals, and other kind of weather stripping. Otherwise it comes with a bunch of extra parts.

I need $1800 in order to get this other datsun so I cant take any less. Email me at supershenanigans@yahoo.com if interested or PM me on here, cant guarantee the site will notify me when i get messages though so yahoo will work.

Thanks,
Tony

DeathByNissan55

Alternator and battery ended up being bad, had one of my extra alternators tested and it was good and had battery recharged and should be ok but will need to be replaced eventually. Had the starter and extra starter and alternators tested and the 2 starters were good and 1 of 2 extra alternators was good. I'll keep the bad one in case you want to rebuild it as high output.
Once I get it all back on I'll see if it starts any easier, then post video if possible.

Turksspeedwerks

Wished I could talk you into parting with the fenders only

DeathByNissan55

I would if i had good condition metal ones sitting around but I dont, its all that came with the car.

Find someone that wants to buy the car for 1800 with out those fenders and Ill send you the fenders for free lol

DeathByNissan55

I would be interested in a trade for another late 70's datsun Z, looking for much better body (understandable that almost all floors on all of these were bad) I want to paint one so I dont care if paint isnt perfect, but as little rust as possible on the rest of the car and no body damage as far as major dents or bent subframes or messed up roofs/quarters. I dont care if drivetrain works perfectly as I plan on swapping, but it needs to at least be a safely rolling and stopping chassis with enough electrical working to control car interior and all lights and hopefully engine operation.

DeathByNissan55

Have videos of it running and driving. Needs new battery though and might be replacing battery cables too.

Some filler work done, will need more.
Loads of sanding needed, etc.

Also have all paint chemicals to do full professional paintjob too.

Willing to trade straight up for any S30 (no 130's) that is an electrically sound, rolling chassis = no engine, no trans, no driveshaft, no rear diff, no engine electrical. Chassis and dash electrical must work as well. (with the exception of blown bulbs, blown speakers, non functioning OE clock).

No rust besides maybe a couple holes in floor. Ive had floors and rails replaced before in an S30 and I'm comfortable having that done again only if literally every other inch of the car is rust/major damage free. No water leaks either (cowl/firewall area leaks, door/hatch seal leaks.
Planning on doing complete drivetrain swap so if you have a question about if you think I'd want it with the car, consider that before asking.

Located in Milwaukee, WI.

Willing to handle transportation both ways only if literally rust/damage free in places mentioned above.

DeathByNissan55

Sorry for late update.
Got good alternator, starter in, recharged battery. Had to bypass starter solenoid but it did start which leads (haha puns) me to believe battery cables and battery are the source of problems.
I have a couple videos of me driving it. I replaced oil and filter as well. Also did those other brakes as well so no more brake problems at all besides maybe a sticky driver rear drum.
I still haven't gotten new battery nor have I replaced cables to see if starting gets any easier. Once I have free time I will.

DeathByNissan55

Got new battery, runs and drives just fine. Going to replace battery cables and lugs for good measure though.

Looking for trades for rust free rolling chassis' plus a little more than 1000$ cash from me.