FOR SALE

1977 Datsun 280Z coupe with custom built Big Block 440 Mopar V-8 conversion;
Torque Flite 727 trans.
Early high compression heads, Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock performer RPM intake, Ceramic titanium coated Sanderson headers, dual 3” exhaust, Mopar Performance cam, Stainless intake and exhaust valves, ARP rod bolts, engine is balanced with lots of attention paid throughout.
Custom double pass aluminum radiator.
Trans is a Torque Flite 727 with a manual shift body.
Front suspensions has been upgraded with shortened strut tubes, Ground control Coil over kit and Tokico 5 way adjustable Illumina struts and polyurethane control arm and T/C rod bushings.
Rear suspension is stock.
Differential is locked/spool.

All the original Datsun instruments are hooked up and work, Speedo, Tach, oil pressure gauge with added idiot light, water temp, fuel qty, volt gauge.

A few extra parts and goodies go with the car such as a milder Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and a milder cam, complete carb tuning kit, spare new starter, etc. Also, included is a pair of Mopar 440 cylinder heads assembled with standard valves and springs, intake and exhaust were professionally ported and seats treated to multi angle valve work, valves were back cut.

The interior is complete but needs a little TLC, mainly the center console between the seats is cracked pretty bad. The body is straight and true other than obvious visible dings, paint isn’t perfect, but it’s not completely oxidized either.
The issues that I personally feel need tending to is the exhaust will rattle against the trans tunnel, needs to have the hangars adjusted or sway hangers installed, and once in a while it wont go into first gear, possibly just a shifter linkage issue. I never use first gear any how as it is completely useless. 2nd gear will fry the tires at anything past ¾ throttle as it is.

Car runs, drives, hauls butt, and is amazingly docile around town, (just leave it in third gear and it is very placid, putts around town fine..

For more detailed pics of the car itself visit…

http://photobucket.com/albums/b81/BRAAPZ/Mopar%20Z/

(The pictures make the paint look better than it is in person. The paint isn’t perfect, but it does look OK. See the pictures for yourself.)

If you aren’t able to view those pictures, let me know.

Asking $4900 o.b.o. for the car and all the extras.
Serious inquiries only please.

Paul Ruschman
Sandy Oregon, (just outside of the Portland Metro area.)
braapZ350@hotmail.com

 

how hard is that conversion? Like what was the engines donor car(s)

 

wow, dodge conversion, that's a first for me.

 

My father is the one who did this conversion. Not sure what the block or the heads originally came from, I think the block is late ‘60’s. I could probably get the years and what the block and heads are from if you would like. The rest of the parts are new aftermarket, i.e. intake, carb, cam, valves, etc.

I guess there are a few Dodge small block conversions running around, but as far as I know, this is the only Big Block Chrysler conversion running, though there could always be another that just hasn’t made itself public…


Paul (BRAAP) Ruschman
Sandy Oregon

 

Mopar Rules! Chevy Sucks ***!

 

Updated the details and added pictures that were just taken this evening.

 

Damn.. wish you weren't so far away. I'd love to have something like that! Now the real question is.. can it hook? LOL

 

How well does this handle mountain and straight. Have you ever had the HP tested with a dyno? This is something Reno could use.

 

The chassis needs help if you want to bomb the curvy back roads. The front suspension is close as it has a Ground control Coil over set up with Tokico 5 way adjustable struts and poly bushings in the control arms and T/C rod. It will need an aftermarket sway bar up front. The rear is completely original 1977 goods, though I think the struts were replaced with something cheap about 10 years back, maybe Monroe’s or something OE equivalent, any how, it is SOFT in the rear, great for launching, but crappy for the twisty roads.
Nope, haven’t dynod the car since the cam and intake swap. My guess is between 330-370 HP at the crank right now, (my BUTT dyno isn’t very accurate hence the wide spread), it does need the carb tuned, I’m not a carb guy so I’m going to leave that to the new owner, (the car comes with a complete NEW Edelbrock carb tuning kit with jets, springs etc.) I honesty believe that after it is dialed in, it should make and honest 400+ HP at the crank no problem, heck it is 440 cubes it BETTER make 400 HP at the crank!