zerath

I would like to get more out of my 260z. When I got it it had (and still has) a L28, with stock 280zx computer and EFI, also a 2 1/4 inch exhaust has been put on it. A Dyno gave a reading of 77kw @ the wheels. My problem is not having alot of mechanical knowledge. This makes it a bit hard to know what to do.

I would like to avoid putting a turbo on it. Since I am under 25 the insurace costs would be more than I could afford, if I could get it at all. Another considering factor is cash. Since that is in short supply, I do not want to do anything that is gonig to cost to much.

So if anyone has any suggestions please let me know.

Reece
Black 77 260z
with a L28 EFI

in Adelaide S.A.

Zpeed

cam cam cam cam cam.... a cam would make the most differance, i assume, as i se you've already got the bolt ones, such as a cold air intake, exhaust etc...

also make sure that you get everything working 100%, like its tuned properly, good oil, etc

and if you like port the head a little, that would give you some better breathing for the head, and also a little shaving to bump the compression up to 10 or so, as i assume you would have a F54 block and a N42 head, if you do your already at a good start

<font color=blue>76 260z</font color=blue>
The NiteRider

zerath

Well I think it has a cam allready. They guy who did the Dyno said that he think it does. As for the block and head, I dont know exactly. Will have to get it looked at and see what I can do.

Thanks for the help,

Reece
Black 77 260z
with a L28 EFI

in Adelaide S.A.

L0ki

get an aftermarket computer .. big difference and all zpeed said ... !!

77kw .. that doesnt sound right i reckon my L26 with cam and 240Z su's is pulling around 100rwkw

Zpeed

yer i think my engine would pull something like 90rwkw at least, and thats just standerd L26, either get a compression test and have a look to see if everything is working properly

<font color=blue>76 260z</font color=blue>
The NiteRider

zerath

Well I think that it is running proper. If it wasn't I would have thought the guy doing the Dyno would have figguered it out.

Well if people want to look at my Dyno yo can go to:
www.thezgarage.com
and look at the "My Z Spec's" section an there is a picture of the dyno readout there.

Reece
Black 77 260z
with a L28 EFI

in Adelaide S.A.

Zpeed

mmmm i spose power to weight, maybe it just feels more powerful... hehe.. i dunno....


if u got 77kw that would mean about 100-110kw at the fly or so, sounds aright..

also on ur site it says Rb25de, better option would be a rb20DET as its got 160kwand alota potential to get it to 200RWKW with stock block and head, just bigger turbo boost etc... but if u want a Rb25de then go for it...

<font color=blue>76 260z</font color=blue>
The NiteRider

Ben

Hey Reece, how's things?
There is no way a mild L26 will put out 100kw on a rolling road dyno.

A stock L28E with aftermarket injection & a 2.5" system will pull ~70kW through an auto & 3.90 gears.

77kW is pretty healthy in an S30 chassis. What diff ratio do you have?

PS Greg has been in Tasmania for the rally (crewing for Steve Winwood in his EVO VI, so the club front has been a bit quiet.)

Ben
Adelaide
Sth Australia
IZCC#1902
240Z L31ETT
L28ET MR30 Skyline
FJ20DET DR30 Skyline RS-X

L0ki

im pretty sure it does better than 70kw ....... not sure on the diff standard '78 2+2 diff

L0ki

Also look at kyles '70 project 240Z its just got an L28 in it and it did 149RWHP ! ? that to me is 108rwkw !

plz correct me if im wrong cause this has got the hopes up for my engine

Ben

Don't forget that dynos ain't dynos. Most stuff from the US is done on the DynoJet style of inertia dyno, but in Aus we tend to use the eddy-current (Dyno Dynamics) type. This results in significant differnces in measured output. The inertia dynos produce a figure that is only 10-25% less than engine power, an eddy-current system will read 40-60% of the engine power. I have been told by many dyno operators that when using a Dyno-Dynamics unit, the engine HP is ~2x the rwkW figure.

If Kyles engine could turn an Aussie dyno with 108kW, I'd expect his car to have a 220+ HP L28ET. My Auto '73 with 0.9 bar of boost would spin the tires through the 1st-2nd change (0-100 in 6s flat) and that had 115kW at the wheels.

As a comparison, the 150-odd kW 3.8L Commodore puts out around 100kW at the wheels. I have seen a 2001 Maxima (VG30E) run 92kW. The 2002 Maxima VG30E is rated at 157kW, so there is a measured 'drop' in the order of 40%.

The American scoff at one of our cars with 200rwhp, but have you driven in a car with 150kW at the wheels?
(An LS1 Commodore has ~170kW measured at the treads, and they're a big, heavy & quick car.)
This can be taken a step further, a stock 2002 WRX has no more than 100kW at all 4 wheels, a big HP 12s car would have ~150kW.

At the end of the day since we're talking about 'same' cars, measured on different equipment. It's probably easier to compare things like the 0-100km/h sprint, as it's the only consistent measurement.

Ben
Adelaide
Sth Australia
IZCC#1902
240Z L31ETT
L28ET MR30 Skyline
FJ20DET DR30 Skyline RS-X

Ben

PS
A stock N14 Pulsar GTiR has 172kW at the engine, and they propel you into next week. By the time you've finished a gear change, you have to start another one...
(My sister owns one.)

Ben
Adelaide
Sth Australia
IZCC#1902
240Z L31ETT
L28ET MR30 Skyline
FJ20DET DR30 Skyline RS-X

zerath

Well the guy who did the dyno, said that the reading was about on par with the VL commodore 3 Ltr. Which he said get about 75 kw.



Also I think that down load the throttle body (280zx standard) might be restricting the air flow to the intake manafold. So I might consider getting it borded out to increase air flow.



As for my diff, I think it is just the standard 260 ,2 seater, 5 speed. I have not checked it and would not know how. and since the car is lowered it makes it a bit harder to do.

Reece,
Black 77 260z
with a L28 EFI

in Adelaide S.A.