Have you done it? I've done it and it cost me over $5k

what octane do you recommend? the highest i see around here where i live is 93...which is all i was planning on using any way, it's all i've ever used in my zx, when it was NA...are you referring to that gas or should i go somewhere special to get higher than that?

what is an hks alc II? and what does it do for an n/a z32

Wow this thread is three years old... Oh well, if you have an automatic transmission the ALC controls the line pressure inside your transmission and gives you crisper, harder shifts.

want a better plan? save up for another year, and make your first big mod job the most important...all the stuff you listed is unnecessary...do it all after you...CONVERT TO TT...i got my na back in june and coulda done all that shit to take my zx from 22 crank to about 250 crank...woohoo...i'd rather do the swap, and a boost controller, and put 300 to the wheels lol

I'm pretty good with electronics/soldering/PCB's. So if its like what I'm thinking, then it sounds like its just going to be dirty, maybe some internal wire showing, and maybe some stretching.

~I was thinking it would be easier and cheaper for me to resheath or repair the damaged wire. That could save me like 250-300 bucks. But I could be wrong. Im new to the 300zx, I've never owned one, and The biggest maintenence I've ever done to a car was suspension work by myself. So i'm open with all ears to you guys....let me know what you think

~Tangeray

Wow,,,thanks allot Rizz, Those really helped out allot...

~Tangeray

not everyone buys their stuff and does it the same way as you. if i remember right you also had problems with yours

ok keep thinking its only gonna cost $2k, then i'll laugh when you're selling your shit cause you cant afford it

isnt that what your sig says on 3zc fairlady? soon to be a TT?

if you dont want to have any problems with the wiring harness and have to replace it again, get a new one.

either pay attention more, dont talk, or go away

he said under 5000....

:doh: :doh:

Yea...After reading the threads that Rizz linked me to (thanks again Rizz :) ), I think im leaning more towards shelling out the cash for a new one. I saw some pictures of some old ones , and it chilled my soldering iron!.

~~soooo, Cheapest new one? any takers?

~Tangeray

new what???

Maybe you should pay attention big boy

TT and NA wiring harnesses are exactly the same except for the TT has extra connectors for boost solenoids. If you just get a electronic boost controller right away you dont have to worry about this and can use the NA harness.

-00Evan

duh rizz, a wiring harness

...and a third option

id probably go with that one

hes swapping the engines from his TT to his slicktop, so he wont have to spend any money except for stuff he wants/needs to replace

:hpydance: Cheapest new wiring harness? Price check~~ and whats a decent brand to get. I dont need the top performance stuff,,,,just something to get by with

~~Tangeray

Search forums or ebay, perhaps post that you want a N/A wiring harness in the "Wanted" section.

Maybe if you hung around the site more and read some threads 00Evan, you'd know that. Oh well, anyway..it's all :blah: to me until he does it. People do have different ways of accomplishing things and if I'm correct he should be able to do it for much cheaper then you considering he doesn't have to buy a TT engine or the front clip...

this is an old post..but I was cruising the forum ...anyway... I have asked the same question..and the same answer I get...If you want more HP get a turbo. I have heard that its not worth the cost and the headaches to do a conversion. Get a tt then you have a solid platform for mods.

K i ve been one for a few days, and u guys have taken this subject and really ran with it. Evan, from what i ve found out is that other than replacing such items lik the main engine wiring harness and a few other odds and ends. Everything I have on the TT car can be switch into my N/A chassis. The only other item that will cost me is what the guy charges me to weld the IC brackets in place. Since both engines and trannys are good, I will not need to repair or repalace anything. I do know I will probably break a few bolts or tear a few rubber hoses. But thats expected. But the biggest advantage i have right now, is that I have no set deadline. I m working at my own pace, and I am in no rush. THATS how u make mistakes...which will raise the price for the swap.

Gettin a TT would be easier..yes. But if u want a TT convertible, slicktop, or 2+2. Then you are gonna have to do a conversion to get some serious power.

WhenI was talkin to John, we were discussing the VP products they now carry. I was talkin about runnin c16. Not very practicle for everyday driving. Have u guys noticied any difference with power/detonation depending on gas company? Z1 told me that they've noticed that Shell gas seems to handle boost better than most other gsa companies.

I didnt see that you already had a parts car.

BTW you dont need to weld any IC brackets. Everything bolts right up.

People buy Z's because they are wonderful cars, they handle well, go fast in any trim, and look great.

People typically buy NA's for a reason - cost, reliability, insurance, back seats, cosmetics.

People typically by TT for a reason - normally the incredible speed and ease of making even more. Power is quite intoxicating.

Think about what you want in a Z before you buy it. If you buy a NA, it will not make the power of the TT without a LOT of money. And your TT will never have a back seat without a LOT of money.

There's not too many people interested in a fast n/a. I guess it's because a tt swap, or buying a tt, is so easy..... :burnout:
When I was out on the streets of willow yesterday, I was happy to have my n/a.

They run about $350. If you find one for significantly less than that, then I would be wary. It probably isn't Nissan OEM. Concept Z and AMZ sell them for $350.

I'm starting to get sick of seeing people recommend a TT swap. Everyone talks about it, but nobody does it. Let's try to bring this site back to the real world.

For the record....the majority of the people that talk about doing a swap do not have the $, the know-how, or the required equipment. Unless you can do the swap yourself, it is much less expensive to buy a TT. The much simpler task is selling the N/A and buying a TT.

I like the exhaust note of a N/A. But cannot resist the rush when the turbos spool and the sound they make doin so.

What do i do about the mounts on the chassis brace right above the headlights? Can I just leave those alone, or will the hard pipe kits elimnate the need of them?

ahleluya!!! thank you 91.

they arent necissary. there are other mounting points for the IC pipes, that extra one isnt really necissary

Other than the engine wiring harness, you will need the tranny too. Unless you want to take the time to modify the mount for the starter. You'll need it too. The TT flywheels are larger than the n/a. You'll also need a different exhaust system since the n/a wont bolt up to the pre-cats.
It would be easier to just get a frony clip. That way you'll get the oil cooler and all other brakets and stuff.
As for the interior, you'll need to mount a boost gauge. I haven't heard go reviews of the factory units. But they do work. It may not me a necisity, but I like keepin an eye on things

The NA exhaust bolts up to the JDM precats

ok I have good advice that has bin given to me. if youare gonna do a JDm TT front clip. when Uhave the motor outof the clip.order a Engine rebuild gasket set from Courtesparts adn change all teh gaskets. so U might also want to check for any maintenance need to be done. this is my plan.

Step 1. get the frotn clip.
Step 2. remove the motor fromt eh Clip
Step 3. check for any damage on motor. and replace allt eh gaskets.
Step 4. change the flywheel and clutch.
step 5. do the 120,000 Mile maintenance
Step 6. clean all conectors and plug in new harness.
Step 7. replace O2 censors.
Step 8. assemble motor back up.
step 9. get a TT fuel pump
step 10. wire up the turbo timer and electronic boost controller.
step 11. set up intercooler piping and drop int eh Intercoolers.
step 12. change the transmition oil and gear oil.
step 13. re do the air conditioning and power steering lines. and all other gizmos and gadgets the TT has diferent than teh N/A.

step 14. drop in the motor and do all the truble shooting need (not to mention there WILL BE MANY)
Step 15. Go Look for some supras.
Step 16. :rockon: :rockon: :rockon:

and all this will take time. so like 91ZXTT said "if you don;t have time to do it right the first time, do U have time to do it over?"

lol...thanks allot barbade, and everyone for that matter. This past weekend brought me some bad news that might put my engine swap plans on hault. The dude who sold me the car forgot to tell me that the radiator lower support beam (or the front crossmember) was Cracked!!.. The car shimmys at 60+ MPH and shimmies on braking. Im in the process right now of getting a new one. I saw one for 157 bucks that i need to change out. ALso, Im feeling a loud Thump in the ass end when I switch gears. Is that the Differential or in the tranny itself does anyone have experience??

~~MOral of the story is now I got bigger fish to fry. It sucks....

~Tangeray

let's not make this a trend by resurrecting old threads.
thread closed.

and again with the old threads....

lol tell me about it. the thumpis normal Ithink we all get it. at least me and all of my z friends. changing the trany and diferential oil helps. :D

thump isnt normal, its either the diff or subframe bushings

Has anyone ever done a front cross member/ radiator core support? I found one online for like 157 bucks + shipping and Im probably gonna do it this weekend. My buddy is an OK welder. If anyone has done one, please give some tips.

~Tangeray

I'll 2nd that.

Tangeray....can you post a picture of it? I would really want to know how it happened and whether or not you're going to find more cracks elsewhere?

k...when I get home tonight I'll post pictures of the Crossmember. Im not exactly sure how it happened because the dude I bought the car from got it like this 2 weeks ago. Im guessing it happened awhile ago because it looks to have been welded at least once before as a TEMP fix.
~~Im trying to figure out how to change my tranny and diff oil this week sometime. Anyone got any quick pointers?...

~Tangeray

Yes, you can find those suggestions in Rizz's link page.

Hey, how's it going? When shopping for a 300 how much of a concern is mileage if I plan on replacing the engine right away?

Well......The mileage on your chasis then is basically all your concern. Now this entails EVERYTHING THOUGH>>. Im talking rear diff, brake systems, suspension, body stuff, etc..etc.... Im not the expert, but as I have been reading the forums and into the Z's, nowadays mileage really isnt a factor because most people are swapping motors, doing conversions, etc..etc... Ask your seller the history of the Z and what parts have been changed out and which parts havent. Hope this helps....

~~Tangeray

Yeah I was thinking along those same lines... Oh well, I guess I'll have to fork over the extra cash just to rip the engine out and fork over even more cash to put a new engine in... Damn college, it's taking all my money, but then again in about 5 years I'll be making enough to buy a few ZX's.

i use 94 from sunoco seems to work very good