300ZX (Z32) Performance / Technical Discussions related to Turbo charging, Supercharging, Engine, ECU, exhaust, and etc. performance enhancements and Techical related.

TT engine removal

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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 05:57 PM
  #1  
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TT engine removal

I've got the tranny, clutch etc out. I've un bolted the motor mounts, disconnected the harness etc etc. i've started lifting the motor, the problem i'm having is that the down pipes coming off the turbos are hitting the back of the car, i can't pull the motor forward because of the low pressure intaked hoses are just in the way, i've unbolted them from the intake piping towards the front of the car, but i can't pull the motor up because of the downpipes..

any tips, will get pics if needed to help explain what i'm talking about.
Old Nov 2, 2008 | 06:24 PM
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You need to pop the intake piping all the way off and pull them up (so that they are resting on the crossmember). They are flexible for a reason. Then pull the engine forward and up.

You cannot remove the engine with both the downpipes and intake hoses in their proper position. Since the downpipes are solid, the only option is to reposition the intake hoses.
Old Nov 3, 2008 | 08:53 AM
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I've seen pictures where the motor is being pulled with the low pressure intake hoses (the lower ones below the 2 upper ones) still attached to the engine.

I guess I will have to find some way to unbolt them from the motor and try to pull them off somehow.

Thanks.
Old Nov 3, 2008 | 09:11 AM
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I didn't say to remove them from the engine, I said to remove them from the chassis and rest them on the front crossmember as you pull the engine out.
Old Nov 3, 2008 | 01:00 PM
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we must be talking about different things.
Old Nov 3, 2008 | 02:29 PM
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Nope.. You need to bend and flex the 2 intake accordian pipes so that they clear the upper cross member. You can also take off the passegner side down pipe pretty easily and that will provide some more room for the engine to twist and clear things.
Old Nov 3, 2008 | 03:57 PM
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^^ Yep. ^^

They are flexible. Unclamp and bend.
Old Nov 9, 2008 | 06:06 PM
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or just remove the intake hoses, i do it all the time makes the job 1000X easier. extensions, u joints and 8mm socket. done and done.
Old Nov 9, 2008 | 06:09 PM
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wow, back from the dead, any updates?
Old Nov 18, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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motor is out, I ended up getting really pissed and just cut the low intake hose on the driver side in half and the motor sprung up about 1 1/2 feet. amazing. Needless to say, after getting the bottom half off, it needed to be replaced anyways, cracks all around the neck of it. During the corse of removal, I also cut A. lines going into the AC compressor. They won't be reused anyways and aren't needed for my swap. B. Lines going into the Power steering pump, won't even use the pump in the swap (obviously). and C. The alternator wiring harness.

All I have left to do now with my parts car is remove random parts (PS pump resevoir and the hicas thing by it) (Rear end and the misc parts are for sale). Remove intercoolers, oil cooler, and all piping that goes with it. Finish removing rear half of drive shaft, differential, and rear end. And then put motor, tranny, etc into my NA. and find a damn TT fuel pump at a fair price, boost controller, and Turbo timer.
Old Nov 29, 2008 | 09:12 PM
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If you decide to do another engine swap look into a ramey z engine slinger it allowed me to pull my motor with the tranny and all still connected. Took bout 4 hours.
Old Dec 8, 2008 | 09:16 AM
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I have the ramey Z engine slinger.

Been very busy so no progress made since last post, and still looking for the parts i still need. But, here are pics for those interested.

Local club member and friend helping me.


you can see where i had some fun with the saw on the driver intake pipe and some other stuff if you look close.


The RameyZ engine slinger... lol oh and me... covered in nasty
Old Dec 30, 2008 | 05:25 AM
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update. i now have all the intake piping off (thanks Zlover), the entire drive shaft (the rear half was a bitch, my 8mm alan socket broke!), and the oil cooler, which should be all the parts i need for my swap. all thats left now is to finish taking off the rear differential, the windshield, and any other little randon misc crap i find like that that is still good, then take the parts car out, and bring the slicktop in and start disecting it.

but i do have a quick question... this was mounted above the oil cooler, and i'm not quite sure what it is... I could tell by the wiring job that it was not factory...



This was unplugged, and had 2 wires on the prongs running to...

this, which was mounted on a bracket above the oil cooler. I found the plug on the harness that was supposed to go onto these prongs...

and also, for your enjoyment, it was raining something awful on a trip to the parts store, so we decided to buy poncho's and look like Douche bags for fun....

local car club member helping that day..

and here's me...

Last edited by napoleonzheking; Dec 30, 2008 at 05:27 AM.
Old Dec 30, 2008 | 08:47 AM
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lol kind of off topic but every time i see a VG30 getting pulled or droped in i can't help but to think that the engine hoist being like some sort of rapist and just telling the Z "take it!"
Old Jan 2, 2009 | 12:38 PM
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nobody knows what this rigged in piece was?
Old Jan 7, 2009 | 11:49 AM
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bump.
Old Jan 7, 2009 | 02:56 PM
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Hard to tell as the pics are not clear and are too dark. It appears to have something to do with the AC system. The canister it's plugged into is the evap canister (if I'm seeing the pic correctly). It looks like some sort of replacement pressure sensor for the stock unit. Never seen that before and also not sure why they did that.
Old Feb 1, 2009 | 04:43 PM
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More progress made, yesterday I removed the exhaust, front fascia, radiator, carbon canister, and AIV system from the NA. Today I will remove the drive shaft, and disconnect the harness, drive belts, and power steering pump.
Old Feb 1, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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yeah, those pics blow, im not sure what im supposed to be judging, is it only that spade clip looking thing in the first pic and then the block int eh second? the block looks like a large relay or something of the sort
Old Feb 3, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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PRVR bypass done, and also, the NA's don't have a PRVR canister like the TT's.
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 09:26 AM
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been awhile since i posted, more progress made, fuel pump is swapped over, and i finally got the drive shaft off the NA, i ended up having to cut one of the bolts off the carrier bearing bracket. for some reason, they had been lock tighted on, and torqued to go knows what. I managed to get one off, but the other one, with my 2' breaker bar with a 6' steel pipe on it would not come and rounded off. dremeled it back hexagon shape, hammered a 16mm on, still wouldn't come, so i ended up cutting it off.

Old Feb 10, 2009 | 11:14 AM
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wow. that's overkill haha. maybe someone thought that tightening it would overcome the shake caused by a bad carrier bearing...
Old Feb 26, 2009 | 01:26 PM
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dropped front and rear sub frames on parts car, pulled all AC lines, all thats left to be removed are the wind shield (factory nissan glass WOO HOO!), and one of the quarter panel windows. (both were on there, but one got broken, so we had a little fun with it since it was broken anyways... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxPeR7BScE). After the glass, I just have to drill out the spot welds for the TT radiator brackets, then the body can be scrapped and out of the way! Yaye..

I also ordered the rest of what should be the stock parts I need from nissan, 2 grand worth of stuff. Parts wise i'm just lacking a turbo timer, and i saw some nismo tranny mounts on 3zxc for sale, and a nismo pilot bushing and as far as parts go I should be done.

I ordered the amz driveshaft off group buy, SZ down pipes and test pipes, nismo oil cooler, mishimoto radiator as well.
Then all thats left to do is turbo rebuild, plenum pull to reseal all gaskets and paint valve covers and all that misc stuff. Fix my AC (compressor rebuild, possible convert to r134a, replace all o-rings etc etc), get ECU reprogrammed to TT spec and drop motor in and hope she starts!

Last edited by napoleonzheking; Feb 26, 2009 at 01:32 PM.
Old Mar 10, 2009 | 03:36 PM
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well, more progress the past few days. Got my motor from the stupid ex-wife's house moved to my new place. removed quarter panel window, drilled out spot welds on radiator brackets. and removed everything from parts car except the wind shield (including gas tank so i can scrap the body).

Got motor to my new place and finished unloading and setting up in shop around 10, began work immediatly and had plenum and valve covers off by 11, then reached a stopping point bc the stupid injector screws suck dick and i was only able to get 3 with a screw driver, and stupid me left my tools at the ex-wife's while working on the parts car...sooo... getting good vice grips to get injectors out tonight and then doing TB water bypass, finish taking injectors out tonight, and start removing the timing covers and other stuff that's going to the powder coat shop and remove turbos...

ALSO, I decided to order one more goody, for those who don't know, 3zc does a couple group buys every month and AMS exhaust manifolds came up, and to counter this greg over at SZ dropped the price of their MSR manifolds to compete (a much better product IMHO) so I will be ordering the MSR manifolds tomorrow since it's such a freaking AWESOME deal.
Old Mar 10, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by napoleonzheking
ALSO, I decided to order one more goody, for those who don't know, 3zc does a couple group buys every month and AMS exhaust manifolds came up, and to counter this greg over at SZ dropped the price of their MSR manifolds to compete (a much better product IMHO) so I will be ordering the MSR manifolds tomorrow since it's such a freaking AWESOME deal.
Good choice. Money should go to the developers, not the people who rip off the parts. Btw, they're not "MSR" manifolds, they're MSP manifolds. The badges on them are MSP-R and MSP-L for "Mike Smith Performance Right" and "- Left."

Last edited by ZLover4Life; Mar 10, 2009 at 05:00 PM.



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