You only need to replace them if they are cracked or warped. (Warping was the reason a lot of people used to recommend RPS, which had replaceable inserts before Fidanza started making theirs.)

 

ok that's cool. so are the inserts less reliable than the surface of the stock flywheel? longevity wise? i'm not too worried about it. i'm happy with the buy at any rate. it's pretty much a done deal. i'll be paying once he gets the shipping quote.

 

I don't think there's any conclusive test that would say that. Reason being - aftermarket flywheels are pretty standard on high-performance Z32's when aftermarket clutches are instaled, so to compare a bunch of 400rwhp+ Z32's to a lot of 300hp-400hp Z's isn't a fair comparison. Heavier clutch puts much stress on a flywheel, harder driving causes more friction, so it's expected that aftermarket flywheels are more susceptible to damage... hence the value of replacement parts.

 

that makes sense. well i trust it for sure. i'm pretty exited about it. even though it only translates to a 1.1 hp increase so it will be pretty much un noticeable (i'm keeping my hopes down so that i'm not disappointed the first time i drive it).

 

You may not notice a difference driving it, but you'll notice a difference when revving the engine.

 

i'm taking the pre-silencers out too at the same time. i reckon it will sound pretty nasty.

 

i'm taking the pre-silencers out at the same time too because my pipe broke while i was taking it off. i reckon it will sound pretty nasty with the faster revs and less muffled tone.

 

well, here's my story on the finally almost done clutch job.

it sucked. it went great (other than the exhaust pipe breaking and the flywheel being ruined) until i tried to put the tranny back up. i remembered last time that it only took my dad and i about half an hour to get the tranny situated and stabbed. well, dad wasn't around so i got a friend over and ended up taking all night last night to do it, and still didn't get it done. it was seriously 6 unsuccessful hours of effort. finally, after about 2 or 3 more hours trying today, with 3 of us! we got it stabbed.

the issue was that before the transmission even got high enough to get the nose shaft started into the disk, it was on the transmission tunnel. so i'd squeeze the tranny up into the tunnel, and still have an inch that it needed to go up before it would start into the engine. you all will hate this but i ended up having someone up front to pry the top of the engine back to tilt the whole engine down in the back so that i could finally stick the f-er through. after that, 5 more minutes and i had 2 bolts holding it to the engine no problem. i can't understand what was different this time. it just sucked. well, a few hours tomorrow sticking it back together and i should be good to go. i can't wait to hear it rev with the new flywheel!

 

glad to hear you have some luck

 

stabbing the tranny is the hardest part of doing a tranny job. just make sure to drain the fluid (if it's good) into a clean bucket to put back in after you get it stabbed.

 

you do that so that it doesn't drip all over the floor? well i dumped mine all over the floor. all my clothes smell like it now. at least i get to top it off with new fluid. what is the fluid we are supposed to use? i have searched, but i get 5 different answers. what is the best?

 

wow. even more set backs today. i got everything completely put together and i was about to start it, just when i put my foot on the clutch and it goes strait to the floor. we tried for about half an hour to get it bled, but it just sprayed air and fluid the whole time and never started feeling any better. so now it's pushed back again to next weekend. i ordered the shaft kit today. i hope that's the same thing as the rebuild kit... better check on that.

 

i really hope that the "piston kit" entails all the seals that go on the piston. this one's a good bit different than the only cylinder i've rebuilt before.

 

before you do anything else


did you bleed it at BOTH places?

 

oh yeah. i bled it at one, stopped getting air, bled it at the other, stopped getting air, then still had no peddle, then bled it at the other again.... it went on and on.

 

how were you bleading it?
with a vac pump?

 

did you bleed it in the correct order?

 

if i remember correctly its the slave then top bleeder valve.

 

well that's how it started. pretty much, i did it in both orders. the master is bad. there's no escaping it. i bled a whole pint of fluid through it, got a ton of air out until there was no more air, then i still had to pick the peddle up with my foot.

 

oh well good luck

i had that probem but it ended up being air just thought i would ask just in case.

 

yeah that's what i thought it was too, but no dice on that. thanks though.

 

75w-90, redline or royal purple synthetics are good.

yes your supposed to drain it so that way it doesn't spill all over the floor while stabbing it.

 

yeah, should have done that. i got a puddle instead. at least i got some fresh oil in there after! i ended up using napa's high end brand of 80-85-90. that's what's been in there and it does fine. i couldn't find redline or royal when i was in the market for fluids.

 

where i live redline has to be ordered off the net, however autozone and o'rielleys carried synthetic royal purple which is pretty much the same thing as redline and just as good. I figured advanced would carry it too.

 

advanced didn't have it and neither did autozone. so rather than wait for it, i got the next best thing available. someday i'll go ahead and order some redline and replace it with that.