Quick advice
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Posts: n/a
Quick advice
Which is a better choice for an upgrade if you can only have one.
Boost Control?
http://store.yahoo.com/sgpracing-sto...fbspecboo.html
or
JWT ECU?
http://store.yahoo.com/sgpracing-sto...909530ecu.html
I have to choose between them. I am leaning towards ECU because I have read that it is needed to handle more boost, but I figured I better run it by the pros.
Boost Control?
http://store.yahoo.com/sgpracing-sto...fbspecboo.html
or
JWT ECU?
http://store.yahoo.com/sgpracing-sto...909530ecu.html
I have to choose between them. I am leaning towards ECU because I have read that it is needed to handle more boost, but I figured I better run it by the pros.
confuzed member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
Definitely an ecu. And can I recommend the AshSpec instead of jwt? It's 300$ cheaper and has safer, more effective programming. A boost controller is somewhat useless without an ecu because you need you fuel and air mixtures (and a bunch of other stuff) to change to be able to safely boost over stock boost limits. Heck, if you get the AshSpec, you may even be able to afford both!
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,494
From: Palmyra,Va
i have to agree...get an ecu and a boost controler, that is if you go with AshSpec... just shop around...i dunno your feelings about ebay but you can find a boost controler pretty cheap. but if you shop around i am sure for the price of JWT you can buy both.....that is if you send your ecu in so you don't have to pay the core charge
Guest
Posts: n/a
Yeah it is kinda scary thinking about buying an ECU on ebay, but a boost controller is a good idea. I think I will go ashSPEC and I guess I will start looking for a good price on a boost controller. Preferably that prospecB that Greddy has....nice stuff
thx guys
thx guys
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,672
From: Gerber, CA
Absolutely do not buy an ECU from eBAY. Before you buy the ECU, you should buy a high flow intake and a cat-back exhaust system. The ECU is your 2rd step. Make sure you take the 1st 2 steps. The ECU upgrade is designed to work better with the modified intake and exhaust.
Cheers!!
Cheers!!
confuzed member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
Yea, I was thinking the same thing. Usually, it works to get the intake, then exhaust(or vice versa) then the ecu. The ecu is programed to work with the freer flowing system. You'll be at stage three and you'll be very pleased. you could pick up an intake for less than $200, then start saving up for an exhaust.
confuzed member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
I did a little ebay shopping for u.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33630
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33630
I have this exhaust and I'm happy with it. Also, look into HKS Hipers...great value. Cheap and the best flow I believe.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33630
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33630
I have this exhaust and I'm happy with it. Also, look into HKS Hipers...great value. Cheap and the best flow I believe.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Ok, since I am new here let me fill you guys in on what I am getting. Tell me if this as good as I think(which may not count for much)
1990 TT 100k+ mi.
recently rebuilt turbos(including new gaskets)
new radiator, tires, fuel regulator, filters, transmission flush, hoses, clutch, tested injectors ,tires etc...
Mods:
Boost Gauge
Turbo Timer
Intake
Exhaust
So it is stage 2 then right? Need the ECU for stage 3 I think.
Buying it for $5k+ us
I had searched and looked at hundreds and this is definately the one I was looking for.
EDIT:
thanks for the links emo, I should have started my post with what it had on it.
1990 TT 100k+ mi.
recently rebuilt turbos(including new gaskets)
new radiator, tires, fuel regulator, filters, transmission flush, hoses, clutch, tested injectors ,tires etc...
Mods:
Boost Gauge
Turbo Timer
Intake
Exhaust
So it is stage 2 then right? Need the ECU for stage 3 I think.
Buying it for $5k+ us
I had searched and looked at hundreds and this is definately the one I was looking for.
EDIT:
thanks for the links emo, I should have started my post with what it had on it.
Last edited by Lynxbat; Jan 21, 2004 at 10:42 PM.
confuzed member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
Sounds like an outstanding deal!!! But get a compression test done as well and take it for a long long test drive and look at it forever..up and down..sideways. That's such a low price that it's awfully suspicious. He might have been stage two for while and he may have raised the boost via welding tips and taken them out so you would never know and done some valve damage or detonated a bunch. go in with a suspicoius mind, but if it all checks out good after eyeing it over hardcore...don't let a deal like that pass up!
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,672
From: Gerber, CA
The 1990 model year had some gremlins. It was the 1st year for the new car, so it was expected. I would be concerned with that, but if you've driven it, and it feels good, and you feel good about it, then do what you want to do. $5kish sounds like a good price, assuming good overall condition, inside and out. The ECU would take you to stage 3; which is a shade over 400 HP. If you could find something '91 or newer, I would recommend that, but it's your call.
confuzed member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
Ok, I found it:
The 'soft' valve problem *could* be in NA engines with serial numbers lower than 777599, while TT engines are lower than 619550. The engine serial number is located on the rear of the passenger's side head. Car assembly dates are earlier than June 22, 1990 for NA's and December 11, 1989 for TT's. The intake cam problems are NA ENGINES ONLY, and are for engine serial numbers lower than 475679 in cars with VIN's lower than 012836 for the coupes and 003754 for 2+2's
The 'soft' valve problem *could* be in NA engines with serial numbers lower than 777599, while TT engines are lower than 619550. The engine serial number is located on the rear of the passenger's side head. Car assembly dates are earlier than June 22, 1990 for NA's and December 11, 1989 for TT's. The intake cam problems are NA ENGINES ONLY, and are for engine serial numbers lower than 475679 in cars with VIN's lower than 012836 for the coupes and 003754 for 2+2's
confuzed member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
They're all about the same which is good. They say that they should be no lower than 130 and no higher than 170..so in other words...great test results...looking like a good car so far...hows the VIN match up to the info I gave you?
confuzed member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,074
From: Salinas, CA
Where'd you get that, Rizz? I think most boost controllers have an incorporated turbo timer, but most turbo timers don't double as a boost controller. IF that was true...heck...boost controllers could be had for less than $200.
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