Ok I have a 1990 TT. Had a turbo blow out on me. Now I had rebuilt the motor. Got a good deal on some JWT Sport 500's. I also got rid of all the emmissions stuff. The ECU is also flashed, but the guy removed the sticker so I don't know for what. I also have a Greddy pro fec B Spec boost controler. No my problem is with the emmisions stuff gone it's really smoky, duh. Also I can only boost when the motor is cool, or frist started. Once I boost for the "first" time of the day, my boost gauge, and the Greddy both read 0 with the pedal at 3/4 throttle. This happens ever day, so I know the turbos are ok, and I checked all the vac lines to the boost control valve. Another thing is that the knock sensor is not hooked up, due to it melting to the block. But I heard all this does is put it into safty boost, through the stock system. I have gone through several setings on the Greddy. Any Ideas guys? I'm stumped

 

Well, the first thing that catches my eye is "it's really smoky" which you attribute to no emissions equipment... well... I don't have a single piece of emissions equipment on my car and it doesn't smoke at all. What color is the smoke?

It honestly sounds to me like you have some MAJOR air leaks (or hose routing problems) that you don't know about... the smoke is likely the result of running rich, but that's why I want to know the color.

 

It's like at light white, smells like gas, not oil. Not really thick, but alot in volume.

 

the smoke is coming out of the exhaust. I took off the EGR stuff, and blocked off the PCV stuff, ran a breather filter to one of the PCV ports on the valve cover.

 

coolant perhaps, if its white. could also explain why boost dies after the engine heats up. except it should only drop to safety boost

also, not having a knock sensor/resistor should put you in safety boost all the time

and the ecu scares me

 

White smoke is coolant. Gas burns black. And again, removing emissions equipment will not cause smoke... smoke is something burning (in this case, likely coolant).

Do a compression and leakdown test... if your head gasket isn't leaking, I'd suspect your turbos are leaking coolant... I suspect "good deal on turbos" means used.

 

No not used. He told me a guy special ordered JWT sport 500's and never heard from him again. He was trying to sell them but he's based in a hick part of florida (I don't live too far from there, lol), so no one wants them there. He sold them new to me for 980. His web site is evergreenturbo.com. And the smoke lessens as it warms up. He also told me the turbos don't build boost till around 3500 rpm. Which would explain why I didn't have any. Used to the stock ones giving full boost or close to it, at 3500 rpm.I just rebuilt the motor and the head gaskets were replaced. Now since last night I have a rattling in the exhaust (I think). So got another problem to deal with. But I'll check all that out tonight. Seems to be worse on the driver side, too.

 

the rattle problem is probably a dead cat, are you sure the motor was rebuilt correctly?

 

sounds like you might have been talked into some bad turbos

 

yes, you are right B300z. Or so I assume. I took off the driver intake at the throttle body and found oil and tiny pieces of metal flakes. Now I can only assume that, one of the turbine wheels broke off again. I know that a barring is strong enough to withstand 40 miles of driving. even if it's not 100%. So the only thing is, is that when I first got them I heard of shaft play. Funny as that sounds, lol. But I don't know whats in spec for it or not. I could move the intake turbine close to a 16th of an inch (have no real way to measure), this put the fins to where I could only fit a couple pieces of hair between them and the housing. So I'm thinking with that movement the barring could have become worse and the fins hit the housing thus dumoing the oil and metal flakes in the intake. Right? but I still have to repull the motor out enough to take the turbos off to really know. What do you guys think?

 

I think at least one of your turbos is shot.

 

Ok so some how the turbine nut back spun off and was sucked in to the turbo. The guy is trying to tell me that only the force of the turbine spinning one way then a sudden snap backwards would do this due to the reverse threadings. But I'm thinking he is right in a way, but if the nut was properly torqued down it wouldn't have done this right? I've attached a pick of it but i don't know if you'll be able to see it.

 

If it was torqued properly, it absolutely would not do that.

Do you have recirculation valves or blow off valves? Because having either would prevent reversion... I STRONGLY do not believe that your turbo instantly reversed directions.

I think the guy you bought them from is shady... less than a grand for what he claims are new Sport 500's... and then he says they won't spool until 3500rpm. Sport 500's spool very much like stock (with proper supporting mods), so he either doesn't know what he's talking about or he's consciously trying to screw you.

 

Ya I have blow off's. Thanks guys for all your help and confirming what I've been thinking.

 

I don't know how much shaft play is allowable, but I'd figure if you could get it that close to the turbine housing, you've got a problem right off the bat.

 

That pic rocks (archived)! That's what the wheel looked like when I bought my turbo Saab. Actually... there were huge chips on the blade edge. I was sure something got sucked down the intake, but when I had it rebuilt, the guy @ the turbocharger shop said it's more likely that the previous owner didn't know / care about letting the turbo slow down / cool down before shutting off the engine. A couple hundred times of doing that will kill the shaft, and cause "shaft play." Shaft play = fins hitting the housing.

 

Not letting the turbo cool down properly usually causes oil to burn onto the bearings (when the turbo is hot and the oil is not circulating, the hot bearings will burn the oil and it'll dry onto the bearings). The typical result is seizure, more often than shaft-play (but of course, poorly taking care of a turbo can cause lots of things).

 

that's probably why you got them cheap. Just replace the turbo.

 

What's the odds of the turbo shoving metal shavings, specs, pieces up through your intake and into the combustion chamber?

 

I can't really answer that,

however if the nut came of the compressor wheel what makes you think you can simply put it back on? you gotta get that turbo atleast properly assembled and balanced again. but from the look sof it the compressor wheel is just ben't not broken. so I wouldn't worry about that yet.

 

In his case, pretty good... the air is flowing through those intake pipes/hoses very rapidly, so it'd be easy for small specs of metal to make it into the combustion chamber. However, the specs are so small that they probably just get pushed through the exhaust and make it out without doing much damage (if that's what you were concerned about). Usually, people get off just fine with replacing the turbo and cleaning out the piping.

Did someone suggest putting the nut back on??? That'd be insane. Turbos spin at over 75,000 rpm (often up to, and over 150,000)... they need to be delicately balanced, so if there's damage, it NEEDS to be addressed.

However, I wouldn't recommend flat out replacing it (as you suggested earlier)... a rebuild should suffice. The other turbo should be inspected as well, to ensure that it won't have the same problems. In the end, he paid $980 for the set... he can get that one fixed and the other one checked and still have Sport 500's for less than the $2k retail price, so it's still not a *horrible* deal in the end... just frustrating to go through all this.

 

if they are at least good housings you can get them rebuilt professionally and quality for maybe 600 for the set. I'd do both cause if this happened to that one it will probably happen to both. also, wouldn't that be WEIRD!!!! lol looking around your car and a nut comes flying out the exhaust at you hahaha.

 

... well a nut from the intake side of the turbo wouldn't make it that far... regardless of the fact that it wouldn't fit through the intercooler or the valves, depending on how it landed in the cylinder you'd end up with a seized engine or a cracked piston (there's really not enough clearance at TDC for a nut to rest in there).

Most larger pieces of metal get stopped in the intercooler (the blades are only a few millimeters wide).

But it would be funny to see some pedestrian get pegged in the leg by a hot piece of metal flying out of your exhaust...

P.S. Eric, do you seriously have a million f*cking posts??? Get a life... I don't think I have a million posts between tt.net, ChicagoZ, 3ZC, and ZDriver combined.

 

oh yeah i knew it wouldn't but it would be funny!!!! and i don't SERIOUSLY have 1 million posts. but that is what my count says. lol. its a funny joke the admins had changing my count or my signature pictures etc. and in my attempt to get my original count back i got this instead. its too funny to complain about so I'll leave it.

 

ok... I was gonna say...

1157 here
1847 ChicagoZ
2193 on 3ZC
5010 on tt.net general
837 on tt.net tech
11044 + whatever I have on other forums

And that's been over 7 years in some cases, so to have a million in 3 years would require some kind of program that posted nonsense repeatedly...