Need help with 91 zTT
#1
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Need help with 91 zTT
Ok this is the whole shin dig...
-Bought my 1991 300zx TT 2 days ago...
-Previous owner trained his car to take Cheveron with Techron 93 Octane fuel ( he says u can also put Texaco and Ammoco ), but he fails to mention this before i had this problem.
-The Problem: I put in Citgo 93 Octane fuel....hence the problem starts.
- The car would shut it self off after igntion automatically, if u didnt give it gas and rev it at 2 for about 3-4 seconds.
-So i deal with that then later after 14 hours my car all of a sudden would not rev fast AT ALL. I have to rev it slow or it starts to bog as if its not gettin gas. and sometimes when RPM drops seems like the engine is about to shut off. It shut off twice since the problem. When i added the Citgo fuel and had the igntion problem i called the previous owner and he told me Citgo gas has toooo much dirt in it for the car. He told me to get Gas treatment asap, so i did and i was fine for a while. When my car wouldnt rev fast, me and friends came to a conclusion that it has to be dirty fuel injectors. Cause it seems the fuel feeds fine when u feed it little gas pedal, but when u try to gas it the fuel injectors seems as if they cant push out that much amount of gas. So then I put the fuel injector cleaner after i put the Chevron Techrin high octane gas. The problem still is there, so i went to a AUtoZone near here and they told me that the ****ed up gas is most likely still in the system and I need to burn the gas out that i have in there and put this Complete Fuel system cleaner, and then put the Chevron with Techron 93 octane gas. right now I have my car running idle burning the gas out. PLZ HELP IM LIKE SPAZIN OUT, I CANT STAND TO SEE MY CAR LIKE THIS!
Update: I have Put the Chevron 93 octane, with the Fuel System Cleaner additive. I was told by the Autozone people to let the gas tank empty out so my system can be clean. If the problem still consists see a mechanic. I jus posted this to see if other people have encountered this problem, or know or have a idea as to what is wrong with my car.
-Bought my 1991 300zx TT 2 days ago...
-Previous owner trained his car to take Cheveron with Techron 93 Octane fuel ( he says u can also put Texaco and Ammoco ), but he fails to mention this before i had this problem.
-The Problem: I put in Citgo 93 Octane fuel....hence the problem starts.
- The car would shut it self off after igntion automatically, if u didnt give it gas and rev it at 2 for about 3-4 seconds.
-So i deal with that then later after 14 hours my car all of a sudden would not rev fast AT ALL. I have to rev it slow or it starts to bog as if its not gettin gas. and sometimes when RPM drops seems like the engine is about to shut off. It shut off twice since the problem. When i added the Citgo fuel and had the igntion problem i called the previous owner and he told me Citgo gas has toooo much dirt in it for the car. He told me to get Gas treatment asap, so i did and i was fine for a while. When my car wouldnt rev fast, me and friends came to a conclusion that it has to be dirty fuel injectors. Cause it seems the fuel feeds fine when u feed it little gas pedal, but when u try to gas it the fuel injectors seems as if they cant push out that much amount of gas. So then I put the fuel injector cleaner after i put the Chevron Techrin high octane gas. The problem still is there, so i went to a AUtoZone near here and they told me that the ****ed up gas is most likely still in the system and I need to burn the gas out that i have in there and put this Complete Fuel system cleaner, and then put the Chevron with Techron 93 octane gas. right now I have my car running idle burning the gas out. PLZ HELP IM LIKE SPAZIN OUT, I CANT STAND TO SEE MY CAR LIKE THIS!
Update: I have Put the Chevron 93 octane, with the Fuel System Cleaner additive. I was told by the Autozone people to let the gas tank empty out so my system can be clean. If the problem still consists see a mechanic. I jus posted this to see if other people have encountered this problem, or know or have a idea as to what is wrong with my car.
Last edited by FaTaLz32TT; 08-24-2003 at 06:24 PM.
#2
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Posts: n/a
Ok now the car sometimes blows black exaust, and the engine seems to bog at 3rpm in each gear. And my Engine overheats.....gonna goto the mechanic later but any info would help!!
Update:
Talked to a 300zx specialist and he said most likely its the spark plugs.
Talked to another mechanic and said jus drain the gas completely until the car wont start, then put in 3 gals of new 93 Octane Shell or Chevron gas. Then turn the key to on and off for 6-8 times giving 3 secs interval between each, so the gas can fill the injectors. Then turn on the car drive it for about 5 miles, if the problem is gone fill the tank 3/4 so the gas tank has air pressure.
This guy had the same problem with another car using the Citgo gas. [ DO NOT PUT CITGO GAS IN YOUR Z ]
Update:
Talked to a 300zx specialist and he said most likely its the spark plugs.
Talked to another mechanic and said jus drain the gas completely until the car wont start, then put in 3 gals of new 93 Octane Shell or Chevron gas. Then turn the key to on and off for 6-8 times giving 3 secs interval between each, so the gas can fill the injectors. Then turn on the car drive it for about 5 miles, if the problem is gone fill the tank 3/4 so the gas tank has air pressure.
This guy had the same problem with another car using the Citgo gas. [ DO NOT PUT CITGO GAS IN YOUR Z ]
Last edited by FaTaLz32TT; 08-25-2003 at 12:25 PM.
#3
I've never had a problem with Citgo gas. Although I have noticed the difference between 92 and 93 octane gas. Some cheapo gas stations around here sell 92 octane as premium. Bastards. Sorry, I can't think of why your car is acting the way it is. My only suggestions would probably be...
Check your plugs like the one guy said. If your blowing black smoke then your detonating. You'll need to clean your plugs.
O2 sensor? Maybe one's bad or the wire's fried?
TPS? Maybe it's sending the wrong signal, running lean?
Have you recently installed a new filter element? Could the MAF sensor be damaged? Maybe it's sending the wrong info to your ECU?
Is the ECU providing you with any trouble codes?
http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html
If you don't know how to check for codes, this link will help you.
Good job keeping us posted. Let us know what you find.
Check your plugs like the one guy said. If your blowing black smoke then your detonating. You'll need to clean your plugs.
O2 sensor? Maybe one's bad or the wire's fried?
TPS? Maybe it's sending the wrong signal, running lean?
Have you recently installed a new filter element? Could the MAF sensor be damaged? Maybe it's sending the wrong info to your ECU?
Is the ECU providing you with any trouble codes?
http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html
If you don't know how to check for codes, this link will help you.
Good job keeping us posted. Let us know what you find.
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well Im having the car put in the air, so I can have a better idea of whas wrong and get it fixed. Not driving the car for 2 days is torture.....sometimes I jus sit in there in my garage and listen to my CD player in there. I also noticed a anti-freeze leak....So Im gonna have the full engine check and if I have the money get the full tune up done. I think its jus a hose, praying its not the radiator itself. When I have enuff I will start rebuilding the Engine. Paid 8k cash up front so pocketo kinda empto. This guy on the zdriver forums told me how to do a power balance test.
:::] - With the engine at idle disconnect the connector to cylinder #1's coil pack. This causes there to be no spark in that cylinder. If the Idle rpm drops slightly then this means that cylinder is working fine. If the idle rpm is not affected at all, then that cylinder either doesn't have fuel, spark, or compression. There are other tests to diagnose these other things, but basically you want to know which cylinders are giving you problems, if any.
So when you are done with cylinder #1, put the connector back on the coil pack and move to cylinder #2 and repeat the same test. And so on until you are done with all 6.
Gonna try that soon too. I wanna make sure the engine is well and healthy before I put any mods on it. Hopefully I can get it rebuilt, so my mind can be at ease. Does anyone know how much it can cost to rebuild the engine. It has new Turbos put in, and a low mileage transmission. It also have a new or low mileage drivetrain, including the gearbox.
:::] - With the engine at idle disconnect the connector to cylinder #1's coil pack. This causes there to be no spark in that cylinder. If the Idle rpm drops slightly then this means that cylinder is working fine. If the idle rpm is not affected at all, then that cylinder either doesn't have fuel, spark, or compression. There are other tests to diagnose these other things, but basically you want to know which cylinders are giving you problems, if any.
So when you are done with cylinder #1, put the connector back on the coil pack and move to cylinder #2 and repeat the same test. And so on until you are done with all 6.
Gonna try that soon too. I wanna make sure the engine is well and healthy before I put any mods on it. Hopefully I can get it rebuilt, so my mind can be at ease. Does anyone know how much it can cost to rebuild the engine. It has new Turbos put in, and a low mileage transmission. It also have a new or low mileage drivetrain, including the gearbox.
#5
What do you mean by rebuilt? Are you going to upgrade the whole bottom end? That's quite an investment. Also, a lot of work involved.
Did you try any of the stuff I suggested?
If you want any suggestions on where to shop, try the other thread I responded to. I'm feeling kinda lazy right now. LOL
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...&threadid=6704
and others...
Did you try any of the stuff I suggested?
If you want any suggestions on where to shop, try the other thread I responded to. I'm feeling kinda lazy right now. LOL
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...&threadid=6704
and others...
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Whoorah!!!!!!!!! Got my z32 FiXeD!!!!!
Ok well I got my radiator replaced and looks good. Since my radiator was messed up and not cooling the engine, so the spark plugs were gettin overheated. The tips had a white frost to them. I replaced them myself, but it still didnt fix the problem. My Turbo hose was worn and was leaking air, and my right side hoses were mix-placed. The left one needed to be on the right one and the right one needed to be on the left one. After that I got a mild check up done on the ECU and the engine. The guys over at www.z1motorsports.com helped me out allot, and when the come back from Florida they gonna check it for boost leaks and more. Plus Im going to get my ECU from them when I go there ! BTW I got my JWT Pop Charger Air Filter installed and it helps allot.
Overall work done:
Got the radiator replaced at a local shop - $275
Changed the Spark Plugs myself - $90
Installed the JWT Pop myself - $98
Got the ECU checked & the engine www.z1motorsports.com - $35
Got the Turbo hose replaced at www.z1motorsports.com - $25 including labor
The guys at www.z1motorsports.com have their shop about 40 mins away from me. THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT!
Ok well I got my radiator replaced and looks good. Since my radiator was messed up and not cooling the engine, so the spark plugs were gettin overheated. The tips had a white frost to them. I replaced them myself, but it still didnt fix the problem. My Turbo hose was worn and was leaking air, and my right side hoses were mix-placed. The left one needed to be on the right one and the right one needed to be on the left one. After that I got a mild check up done on the ECU and the engine. The guys over at www.z1motorsports.com helped me out allot, and when the come back from Florida they gonna check it for boost leaks and more. Plus Im going to get my ECU from them when I go there ! BTW I got my JWT Pop Charger Air Filter installed and it helps allot.
Overall work done:
Got the radiator replaced at a local shop - $275
Changed the Spark Plugs myself - $90
Installed the JWT Pop myself - $98
Got the ECU checked & the engine www.z1motorsports.com - $35
Got the Turbo hose replaced at www.z1motorsports.com - $25 including labor
The guys at www.z1motorsports.com have their shop about 40 mins away from me. THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT!
#7
[i]
Overall work done:
Got the radiator replaced at a local shop - $275
Changed the Spark Plugs myself - $90
Installed the JWT Pop myself - $98
Got the ECU checked & the engine www.z1motorsports.com - $35
Got the Turbo hose replaced at www.z1motorsports.com - $25 including labor
[/B]
Overall work done:
Got the radiator replaced at a local shop - $275
Changed the Spark Plugs myself - $90
Installed the JWT Pop myself - $98
Got the ECU checked & the engine www.z1motorsports.com - $35
Got the Turbo hose replaced at www.z1motorsports.com - $25 including labor
[/B]
lol
Great to hear and happy motoring to ya!!
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Some more updates I have done..
ECU Upgrade - AshSPEC @ www.z1motorsports.com
Turbo Jets Installed - Currently running 15 Psi Boost
30 psi Boost Guage
GREDDY Turbo Timer
Tuned right - Was IDling at 25 BTC, they got it to go back to 15 BTC at Idle( The ECU program was doing something of its own, so Ash decided to install his program and it worked great).
Previously Done:
JWT Pop Charger ( for those who want dual intakes but worried about the BOG it causes on low HP vehicles, U can order z1motorsport Duall intake pipe and it works well even on stock z32TT)
New radiator
Spark plugs
Future Plans:
HKS HiPeR Exaust ( Current Custom Exaust SUCKS! )
Unorthodox Underdrive pully
Stronger Clutch
Theortically I am supposed to be running around 380 - 400hp, haven't Dyoned it yet.
ECU Upgrade - AshSPEC @ www.z1motorsports.com
Turbo Jets Installed - Currently running 15 Psi Boost
30 psi Boost Guage
GREDDY Turbo Timer
Tuned right - Was IDling at 25 BTC, they got it to go back to 15 BTC at Idle( The ECU program was doing something of its own, so Ash decided to install his program and it worked great).
Previously Done:
JWT Pop Charger ( for those who want dual intakes but worried about the BOG it causes on low HP vehicles, U can order z1motorsport Duall intake pipe and it works well even on stock z32TT)
New radiator
Spark plugs
Future Plans:
HKS HiPeR Exaust ( Current Custom Exaust SUCKS! )
Unorthodox Underdrive pully
Stronger Clutch
Theortically I am supposed to be running around 380 - 400hp, haven't Dyoned it yet.
#9
Suggestion:
Get a lightened flywheel at the same time you do the clutch upgrade. Since you gotta drop the tranny anyway, might as well do it all at the same time.
If you plan on upgrading your radiator at all, before you do the pulley swap would be a great time to do that as well. Since you'll have to remove the radiator to install the new pulley.
Glad to hear you're up n running so well. See ya.
Get a lightened flywheel at the same time you do the clutch upgrade. Since you gotta drop the tranny anyway, might as well do it all at the same time.
If you plan on upgrading your radiator at all, before you do the pulley swap would be a great time to do that as well. Since you'll have to remove the radiator to install the new pulley.
Glad to hear you're up n running so well. See ya.