Knock/Detonation Sensor
id personally save the money and get an apex-i safc II it will tune your car good (if done right) show you everything thats happening in the car, knock, throttle, rpm etc. and i think you can ebay them for like 150 otherwise new there like 350 sooo??? just a thought. probly not what you were looking for though.
hmm, I might consider that... also I was wondering, could an improper signal sent to the ecu by a faulty detonation sensor cause the timing to be retarded, making the engine run a bit rough and lowering milage?
I will post these for you so you can use them for your viewing pleasure
http://www.conceptzperformance.com
http://www.courtesyparts.com/z32/index.html
If you decide you want to replace the knock sensor I would suggest a relocation to the rear plenum bolt and save yourself a $1500 bill from the stealership.
Assuming you ran codes and have a 34
http://www.conceptzperformance.com
http://www.courtesyparts.com/z32/index.html
If you decide you want to replace the knock sensor I would suggest a relocation to the rear plenum bolt and save yourself a $1500 bill from the stealership.
Assuming you ran codes and have a 34
And just to throw it out there, Coz at Concept Z ALWAYS has cheaper prices than courtesy. I'm not "knock"ing (hehe get it?) courtesy or anything, I've ordered from them before, I'm just saying thats how it is.
Originally Posted by japanz
I will post these for you so you can use them for your viewing pleasure
http://www.conceptzperformance.com
http://www.courtesyparts.com/z32/index.html
If you decide you want to replace the knock sensor I would suggest a relocation to the rear plenum bolt and save yourself a $1500 bill from the stealership.
Assuming you ran codes and have a 34
http://www.conceptzperformance.com
http://www.courtesyparts.com/z32/index.html
If you decide you want to replace the knock sensor I would suggest a relocation to the rear plenum bolt and save yourself a $1500 bill from the stealership.
Assuming you ran codes and have a 34
My second advice is to relocate to the rear drivers side bolt that holds the upper plenum to the lower plenum.
needed: A M8-1.25 x 100mm bolt, M8 lock washer, M10-1.50 nut, and M8 flat washer.
This is what some people do and it is fine. Others can argue this but unless you are taking apart the motor then this is a more than ample solution to get you boosted again.
Not such a big deal personally. Then I used $1200 to buy new wheels rather than let Nissan have the cash.
needed: A M8-1.25 x 100mm bolt, M8 lock washer, M10-1.50 nut, and M8 flat washer.
This is what some people do and it is fine. Others can argue this but unless you are taking apart the motor then this is a more than ample solution to get you boosted again.
Not such a big deal personally. Then I used $1200 to buy new wheels rather than let Nissan have the cash.
Originally Posted by japanz
My second advice is to relocate to the rear drivers side bolt that holds the upper plenum to the lower plenum.
needed: A M8-1.25 x 100mm bolt, M8 lock washer, M10-1.50 nut, and M8 flat washer.
This is what some people do and it is fine. Others can argue this but unless you are taking apart the motor then this is a more than ample solution to get you boosted again.
Not such a big deal personally. Then I used $1200 to buy new wheels rather than let Nissan have the cash.
needed: A M8-1.25 x 100mm bolt, M8 lock washer, M10-1.50 nut, and M8 flat washer.
This is what some people do and it is fine. Others can argue this but unless you are taking apart the motor then this is a more than ample solution to get you boosted again.
Not such a big deal personally. Then I used $1200 to buy new wheels rather than let Nissan have the cash.
Whats the advantage of relocating?
The advantage is that it will save you a ton of cash. Some people do a resistor bypass, relocate to the back of the engine block or what I have mentioned. The sensor will work at least as effective as the original position. There are no performance gains at all, just in the pocketbook. I have never heard of the knock sensor being a problem for relocating it to the location I mentioned. Would you not rather spend the money on an ECU upgrade and injectors? Or something along that level. I would!
Ahh... I see what you mean... its in the block
, for some reason I was thinking it was accessable... but after a bit of research, I see... I may just try the 1Mohm resistor to see if it is indeed what is affecting what I think it is affecting, and prolly leave it in while I wait for my new knock sensor to get here
, for some reason I was thinking it was accessable... but after a bit of research, I see... I may just try the 1Mohm resistor to see if it is indeed what is affecting what I think it is affecting, and prolly leave it in while I wait for my new knock sensor to get here
Last edited by Aphrodite; Feb 4, 2006 at 01:05 PM.
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
id personally save the money and get an apex-i safc II it will tune your car good (if done right) show you everything thats happening in the car, knock, throttle, rpm etc. and i think you can ebay them for like 150 otherwise new there like 350 sooo??? just a thought. probly not what you were looking for though.
I'm confused....how will a SAFC II help with a faulty knock sensor?
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