Stronginchrist

This thread will be dedicated to the "unique circumstance" of needing to replace turbos on a Z32 when pulling the engine is not an option. First lets identify candidates who would qualify:

Use this method if:
- You do not have adequate means of pulling the engine (Be it no shop or no money to pay the shop).
- You are NOT upgrading to anything larger than a T25 housing
- Your replacement turbo is absolutely bolt on.
- You have patience...Literally less than 20 bolts involved for a 10 hour job. Little room to work (understatement).

I would definitely recommend this method for a simple single turbo replacement.

Not sure the best way to insert vids on this site but Im gonna try to attach an intro vid.

Good luck....cause you'll need it!

Stronginchrist

For some reason the sound was not being accepted so heres the Intro vid from my facebook...

http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?...=1427836904070

Stronginchrist

You will need:
- Standard tool set; plus some good universal adapters and extensions
- Ramps, jack, and jack stands
- Towels and catch pans ect.
- Anything else you can think of to make it easier. Im sure I could have used better tools!

Jacking up the car: Its a good idea to use ramps because you will need to disconnect the lower steering shaft from the multi joint knuckle beneath the turbo. This way you can turn the steering wheel to remove the knuckle without moving the wheels too. This is important when realigning the steering wheel.

You will still need to jack the car up from underneath even after its on ramps. You will be doing a lot of work underneath the car so having clearance will be paramount.

Once the car is at a good height (not too high that its uncomfortable from the top yet still giving clearance beneath) you can set up your tools and get ready to rock

Stronginchrist

You will use mostly the same tools so I kept them either close by or in my shirt pocket. 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm wrenches and sockets are just about the only ones used so keep those close. Most of my time was wasted by crawling back out for the same wrenches!

Remove Break Cylinder:
- Two bolts hold it in place
- Remove bolts first; this gives room to remove oil lines.
- Lay it on its side so it doesnt leak all the fluid out
- THIS WILL BE YOU RIGHT HAND POINT OF ACCESS
Remove Air Pipes: Only the two connected to the turbo
- Mine had brittle hoses so dont worry about breaking them. Just planning on replacing things as you go. I snapped a vacuum line and T during this stage. If its brittle just replace it.
- THIS WILL BE YOUR LEFT HAND POINT OF ACCESS

Remove Power Steering Knuckle
- From under the car this knuckle is directly beneath the turbo and blocks the turbo from exiting out the bottom of the car.
- Remove the two screws on the knuckle itself.
- Give it a few gentle taps with a hammer to wiggle it loose.
- Turn key in the ignition to initiate power steering
- Now you can turn the bar by hand to straighten out the knuckle
- Simply tap it the rest of the way up till the bar swings down and out of the way
- Lay the knuckle of to the side but MARK WHICH END WAS THE TOP because they are not reversible.
Unplug O2 Sensor
- Just follow the wire from the down pipe up to the plug on the harness and disconnect it.

At this point you should have all the access you need to the goods.

Stronginchrist

You will NOT get the bolts off of the turbo itself at this point. There is no way to disconnect the bolts or the oil/water lines. For this reason you have to remove the turbo as part of an assembly. Exhaust Manifold/Turbo/Down Pipe

NOTE: For all of these bolts I used a penetrating oil to help free them up. Keep in mind that one snapped bolt means engine must come out. A risk I was willing to take to save a couple G's

Detach Down pipe from exhaust
- Its best if you can remove exhaust or swing it back out of the way. I couldnt because it was welded in place but I managed anyhow. Definitely would have been better had it not been there.

Disconnect Oil/Water Lines
-You will only be disconnecting the rubber hoses. You will NOT be able to get to the hard piping on the turbo until it is out of the car.
- Not much oil of water comes out but have a towel and catch pan available for detaching the lines.
- From the top of the engine you can easily access the upper water line. Remove the hose clamp and slip off the hose.
- Lying beneath the car you will see the other water line. Remove this clamp as well.
- Remove the two bolts to the lower oil line and swing it out of the way.
- The final oil line you will have to follow with your hand to see where it is attached. This one I could only get to with a wrench via many 1/8 turns.

Detach Exhaust Manifold from Engine
- Most difficult part. Have universal on hand.
- Use all points of access you can think of both top and bottom side of the car.
- Most difficult bolt was BEHIND THE TURBO. This was the only time I used a helper. I had a friend of mine "fishing" with a universal and a stick magnet from the top side of the car as I "sighted" him in the right direction. THIS BOLT TOOK 1 HOUR TO GET A HOLD ON!!! That included our frustration breaks and such
- After you have all your manifold bolts loose it should feel nice and loose and ready to come out.

Wiggle the Assembly Out
- This will take some technique to wiggle it down and out from underneath the car.
- This would have been much easier with a helper but I did it alone. Just have patience and look for whats hanging you up. Remember you have oil and water lines on there still. Any little thing can hang you up. Once you are confident you arent hanging up on anything just give it some good twists and pulls and it will drop out for you.

Stronginchrist

We'll assume you have your replacement turbo on hand and are ready to swap them out.

Detach Down Pipe from Turbo
- Remove four bolts. I snapped one off. I heated the others with a torch to get them off. I used new bolts and nuts for the new turbo. Old ones were rusted and junk.

Detach Exhaust Manifold from Turbo
- Same as Down pipe make sure to use penetrating oil of heat them babies up.

Swap Oil/Water Lines
- Lay both old and new turbos next to each other so you hook the right lines up to the right places.
- Swap them one at a time.
- Make sure to blow in them and confirm they are not clogged.

Build New Assembly
- Attach turbo to header
- Bolt down pipe to turbo
- Make sure you use good gaskets

You should be ready to install

Stronginchrist

This part is much easier with help. I did it by myself because I was limited with time and no one else was around. Took about 30 minutes of bicep cramping beneath the car to get it up into place

Wiggle Assembly Back Up
- Once again pay attention to oil lines hanging up ect. Once you are sure there is nothing in the way just FORCE it up in there.

NOTE: It would be wise at this point to hook up the water line behind the turbo. I bolted the header on first and this made it much harder to get the hose clamp on that back water line.

Bolt Header Back On

Bolt Up Exhaust

Hook Up Oil/ Water Lines

Stronginchrist

Almost there. This is where you start to pay close attention to everything you've done. Last thing you want to do is successfully install a turbo and then smash into a tree because you HOOKED YOUR STEERING WHEEL UP WRONG! or something like that

Hook Up O2 Sensor

Install Air Piping

Install Brake Cylinder
- Bleed brakes if necessary once you start the car and everything

Install Steering Knuckle
- Make sure your steering wheel is straight after you hammer that knuckle back on. Turn key in ignition so you can steer it with the power steering. Your wheels will be in the same straight position they were in if you used ramps.

Double and Triple Check Everything. Make sure you or I didnt miss anything and then.........START YOUR ENGINES!!! Well wipe everything down and clean up your work area first

Stronginchrist

Expect this to take a full day. It took me 10-11 hours spaced over a work week but it was my first time I didnt have this little thread lol

Feel free to add anything or ask anything. Im sure it could be improved on.

Rupe

Nice thread dude, you are a pioneer.

ZLover4Life

No he's not... he's a guy that decided to do more work than he was needed for no good reason. It's easier and likely faster to pull the engine.

And the process is actually detailed in the factory service manual... not a pioneer at all.

Rupe

PIONEER