What a fantastic site. Hello everyone, I'm the guy who's wanted to own a Z for years and finally bought a 'project vehicle'. I now have a 91 N/A and I must say the wait was worth it. I have sat up, glossy-eyed, for a couple nights now and haven't quite pinned the problem I am having from your collective experiences- and thought I'd ask..... I appreciate any feedback... I'm learning as fast as possible....

Q: I bought my car Saturday, drove the hell out of it for 2 days, ran great no problems. Went to NAPA Express for new oil (10W-40), replacement tranny and differential fluid. A BLOCK later my check engine light comes on. I pull over, check everything out, and continue straight home to figure out the problem (I read the ECU diag thread). On the way home, the light goes out. Two days later it comes on and stays on. I ran the diag and got 3 (three!!!) codes: 32, 34, 51. The light has been steady for a few days now.

EGR, Knock, and Injector issue? How are they all three related? Could one or more of the codes be 'stored' from something that happened a long time ago and was never cleared?

I put everything I had into buying the car so the cheapest approach to get the light to go away would be great. Other than the light the car runs fine, a little vibration at idle but runs pretty well. 23mpg.

The specs: 180k mi , 5speed N/A, '91 bone stock (not for long!)


Thanks in advance!

RuZ

P.S. Was $3100 a good deal?

 

welcome to the site, and congrats on the z. not sure about your problem, but $3100 sounds like a great deal to me. I want to move from my z31 to a z32 but cant find anything around here in decent shape for less than $5500. the cheapest i found is a '90 slicktop thats kinda beat, for 3k,but i dont want something that i am going to have to sink time and money into just to make it run and look good. i'd rather spend that on making it run and look GREAT.

btw, sorry to go off topic, but anyone in WA seen anything i might be interested in under 5k?

 

Well first i would try reseting your Ecu, by disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes, if the codes still show... Id do this

Injector Code: Get a multimeter and check the resistance of all of the injetors, the ones that are good willl be in the 12-13 ohm category, anything else is going bad or already bad.

Knock sensor; first try cleaning all of the connections if no go, jsut replace it although this will be a pain in the *** (if you got the extra money id probabley replace the harnes too if you gonna go through all the trouble).

And As far as the EGR- there are several options, you could try cleaning it, you could remove it (will cause problems depending were you live- as far as emissions), however if you remove it the code will still stick, so id try cleaning it well and trying to get all the carbon out

 

The only way those things are related are that they're all a PITA to replace. As mentioned above, check resistance on injectors. Down to 11 ohms is ok. Usually if you have a problem they'll read up around 70 ohms. Try cleaning all of the connections as well.

 

With the engine running, I got under the hood and poked around... pushed on an injector plug and the engine sounded like it was running a little smoother. I walked around to the driver's door and the check engine light had already turned off. Crazy stuff. I am going to buy some of that conductive spark plug grease and clean/lube all the injector plugs tomorrow. Hopefully that fixes everything. Thanks for the input folks! I've got a list of things to tackle- just taking them out one by one.