ViperGTO99

Hey, I replaced my clutch master AND slave cylinders bled the system and everything was working great. I didn't get to drive it too much due to weather and all, but today I drove is 15 minutes on the highway, then 4 miles on secondary roads. Stopped at the bank drive thru and when I pulled out from the bank, the clutch started slipping. I was still able to drive, but it started sounding like I was spinning my tires. I wasn't. When I let off the gas, it would feel almost like my tires just caught traction again. I drove it about 2 miles very gently to my mom's house. Let it sit for about an hour, and it was working fine again.


I know the simple excuse is, "get a new clutch". BUT, could there be an adjustment issue with the clutch pedal? I mean, it wasn't acting like this before the cylinder replacements.

Maybe I'm just trying to find an excuse to keep from changing the clutch yet. Give it to me straight. Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance.

KasbeKZ

did you resurface your flywheel? if the flywheel was grooved and you put a new clutch on it, you have very little clutch surface touching the flywheel.

other than that, slippage can be caused by oil and other contaminants on the disk, so if your hands were dirty when you put it in, that can do it sometimes. i

if it's not one of those... i don't know.

ZLover4Life

... he never said he replaced the clutch...

There is no reason that changing the master and slave cylinders would have any impact on how the clutch grabs when it's fully engaged. Why? Because when the clutch is fully engaged, the hydraulic system and pedal are 100% out of the equation. The hydraulics are only working to disengage the clutch. Replace the clutch.

If you want to waste your time making sure the pedal is adjusted properly, here:
http://specialtyz.com/clutchadj.htm

If you want to waste your time confirming what I just told you, hop on the highway, put it in 5th, and floor it. The clutch experiences the most pressure in higher gears where the gearing and weight of the car are preventing the engine from revving high. If the clutch is bad, the engine will rev and the car will not accelerate... but since you described exactly that anyway, I'm saying the clutch is bad.

ViperGTO99

I was afraid YOU would say that. Ugh. Ok, so if I'm NOT planning on many mods. What's a good replacement clutch setup that I should look for? Should I replace the flywheel? I know there's a lot of debate about that. Advice?

ViperGTO99

ZLover: I did what you said about "on the highway, 5th gear, floor it" worked fine. after driving on back roads for awhile it started slipping. Got on the highway and did it again...slipped. BUT... then after driving about 5-7 miles without shifting, I floored it again, while STILL in 5th, and it worked as it's suppose to, no slipping. Still mean 'bad clutch'???

CanyonCarver

Two other things to consider......

You may have the clutch pedal improperly adjusted. I would readjust it and make sure you have more than enough free-play as opposed to no free-play.

Secondly, you may still have air in the lines. when everything is relatively cool, the clutch works fine even with a little air in the lines. When heat soak sets in, the air expands enough to cause the clutch to slip.

My point, last year in March, I replaced my clutch, slave cylinder, and added a steel braided line. I drove it for months, including a cross-country trip. In mid summer I went to a car show on a 100 degree day. Stuck in heavy stop-and-go traffic, my clutch pedal got hard and eventually started slipping a little. I knew what the problem was. I went home and re-bled the clutch and haven't had the problem again. Youmust make sure your pedal is properly adjusted before bleeding or you create other problems.

So, If your pedal is properly adjusted, and all of the air is bled out, and the clutch slips, then it is then time for a new one.

KasbeKZ

wow. serious mis-read. i definitely put an extra and in there.

also, if you do end up needing to replace the clutch, exedy seems to be the cheapest good relaible option. i just put one in and i'm satisfied. as for the flywheel, it's a very good idea to get it resurfaced, but if there's anything wrong with it (broken teeth, heat cracks), you may as well replace it.

ZLover4Life

Try bleeding the system once more like CanyonCarver said. Don't bother bleeding from the lower bleed point - I don't even know why Nissan put it there. Air moves upward in the system, so bleeding at the lowest point in the system is a surefire way to waste fluid. Bleed at the screw in the bay and see if that solves your problem.

twoodson

ive had this problem as well, ive replaced the clutch, master and slave cylinder had it bled and the pedal was adjusted. it's really becoming a nuisance, my mechanic has adjusted the pedal several times. when it heats up is when mine starts slipping.

domsgarage

I replaced mine with the oem clutch. im really happy with it.

i was going to go with an exedy or a centerforce but the shop by me, that specializes in these cars, told me that the oem clutch was my best bet.

he said hes seen the centerforce / exedy clutches break as much as work out.

IllinoisREI

Rear main seal leaks have been known to cause such symptoms. Replaced mine at 120K and no more clutch slipping problems.