Ok guys hears a weird question that has had my brain on drugs lol how do i know if my car is a cali ecu ? or a Fed ecu ? is there a certian vin number ? letter or alphabet letter ? is there something saying in the door jam or under the hood ? im just curious. Please honest and good answers.

 

easiest way:

the nissan hotline will tell you, but there is no extension for getting random info. use the recall extension, and ask the lady if there's a recall on your vin. then, she says "can i help you with anything else?" and say, while you're at it, can you tell me what state it was sold in? she'll even tell you the dealership.

1-800-nissan1

i've done this twice. once for my car, once for a friend's.

warning though, they will take like 5-min of your time getting the car's current info and where you live and ****.

this may not be the easiest way, but it's the only way i know other than searching.

 

Do you still have the orginal ECU? If so look up the ECU number on the chart linked below and then look under the Reg column for F or C.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/ECU-ID.PDF

 

Where are you located? Unless you're in Cali, the probability of having a Cali car is extremely low. (Most cars don't go very far in their lifespan... my first 300ZX went from Illinois to Arkansas and back to Illinois, my second 300ZX was in Chicago its entire life.)

And to be honest, you should've gotten a CarFax report (which would tell you where the car was sold) before you ever purchased the car... it's kinda important to know your car's history.

 

UPDATE ! The Ecu that came out of my car is a Federal 1993 model with the 16 bit ?
a-18-b00-me1k = 23710-45-p05 automatic non turbo. FEDERAL... 1993.

the ecu i got now said it was from a california car after looking it up on jimwolf the ecu says somthing differant.
a-18-a72-mb6 =23710-30-p60 manual non turbo " FEDERAL ... 1991.

I want to know now if i put in a manual Ecu in a auto will it make a differance ?

Any body with z32 ecu swaps please contact me ASAP did you have any problems ?

Nismo619

 

If you have an automatic transmission then you need and ECU for an auto. There are at least 5 different wires that run from the main ECU to the trans ECU.

 

Yes, and I answered this in YOUR OTHER THREAD, TOO. You cannot use a manual ECU in an automatic car.

 

My car has been imported from germany.. if i give u its carfax can u tell me if it has a cali or fed ECU so i can know wut to order frm JWT...

 

I have been serching the web and i have seen sights saying that a certian type of nissan 300zx ecu can be used for both auto and manual. Does any one know if this is known ?

 

what you're thinking of is that the auto ecu can be used in the manual. it just doesn't use the auto part.

 

ok good news people the ecu i bought off ebay stillen tuned ecu i bought for 135 shipped does work in my 1993 300zx it came from a 1990 300zx 2+2 na auto. But when i looked up the code on the front of the ecu threw jim wolfs ecu looks up it said it was 1991 federal manual ecu. Yes i was hellascared to try it. But i e-mailed the guy i bought it from and he assured me it was from a auto....

Does a upgraded ecu suppose to go to redline ? 7,000 or 6,500?

 

typically the "rev limiter" is set to 7,400 in aftermarket ECU's. the redline is still at 7,000, unless you change your gauge face.

 

How many ECU threads do you intend to start? All of your questions could've been asked as new responses to your original thread.

 

^^^ Good point. Merged threads.

 

Ok your right... i did make a few extra threads that the " adminstrators " will delete anyways. But can i ask you something when you say rev limiters that meens when i put it into " Neutral " i can rev it up to 7,000 ? that doesnt meen when i put it into drive i dont see the rpm go to 7,000 then shift to second ?

So now i have a 8bit ecu upgraded
Im gonna buy the 16bit upgrade and tell yall if its differant or better ... FYI

Nismo619 !

 

lol

The rev limiter is an electronic upper-bound that the engine CANNOT rev past (it cuts fuel and spark at 7450 [actually] rpm, so that the engine doesn't rev any higher). You should never have a reason to rev this high - it just prevents you from destroying your valvetrain if you do.

Google could've told you this.