bad idle and stalling
#1
bad idle and stalling
Hey I just recently did a swap and now I have an issue with my engine idle. It goes all the way up to 2000 then to 300 RPMS, and sometimes stalls. It doesn’t do this when its cold, rather it idles at 1100. I have checked for boost or vacuum leaks and found none. My boost hits 17 PSI no problem. I changed the AAC valve and FICD solenoid and did the following misc. work: all new vacuum lines new stage 2 heads from Z1 doolz intake apexi boost controler rps flywheel Ur pulley,Rfl blow off's plx r 500, AFC controler Z1 ecu upgrade 850 cc injectors devorce pipes test pipes cat back full tien coil overs solid sub bushings new dif urthane bushings front upper and rear upper control arms traction arms toe arms ra-1 toyo tires stilling sway bars SPL fender braces alpine system. Everything else works fine and the only issue is with the idle. Please help thanks.
Last edited by Boosted Z; 03-03-2006 at 02:34 PM.
#3
Originally Posted by ZLover4Life
I'll read that and attempt to help when it's organized into sentences. I can't read rambling.
#4
Jesus H Christ........I think I've managed to translate the first post. Please understand I do this for the sake of your car only:
Hey I just recently did a swap and now I have an issue with my engine idle. It goes all the way up to 2000 then to 300 RPMS, and sometimes stalls. It doesn’t do this when its cold, rather it idles at 1100.
I have checked for boost or vacuum leaks and found none. My boost hits 17 PSI no problem. I changed the AAC valve and FICD solenoid and did the following misc. work:
all new vacuum lines
new stage 2 heads from Z1
doolz intake
apexi boost controler
rps flywheel
Ur pulley,Rfl blow off's
plx r 500, AFC controler
Z1 ecu upgrade
850 cc injectors
devorce pipes
test pipes
cat back
full tien coil overs
solid sub bushings
new dif urthane bushings
front upper and rear upper control arms
traction arms
toe arms
ra-1 toyo tires
stilling sway bars
SPL fender braces
alpine system.
Everything else works fine and the only issue is with the idle.
Please help thanks.
Hey I just recently did a swap and now I have an issue with my engine idle. It goes all the way up to 2000 then to 300 RPMS, and sometimes stalls. It doesn’t do this when its cold, rather it idles at 1100.
I have checked for boost or vacuum leaks and found none. My boost hits 17 PSI no problem. I changed the AAC valve and FICD solenoid and did the following misc. work:
all new vacuum lines
new stage 2 heads from Z1
doolz intake
apexi boost controler
rps flywheel
Ur pulley,Rfl blow off's
plx r 500, AFC controler
Z1 ecu upgrade
850 cc injectors
devorce pipes
test pipes
cat back
full tien coil overs
solid sub bushings
new dif urthane bushings
front upper and rear upper control arms
traction arms
toe arms
ra-1 toyo tires
stilling sway bars
SPL fender braces
alpine system.
Everything else works fine and the only issue is with the idle.
Please help thanks.
#5
TPS...try resetting it.
Second...all that for mods and expense but no where did I see that you ran codes. This should be the basics of this car and should have been the first mod or how to on your list. Codes people codes.
1...problem
2...run codes to see what comes up
3...fix error and if all else fails post issue.
1-2-3
Second...all that for mods and expense but no where did I see that you ran codes. This should be the basics of this car and should have been the first mod or how to on your list. Codes people codes.
1...problem
2...run codes to see what comes up
3...fix error and if all else fails post issue.
1-2-3
#6
Originally Posted by japanz
TPS...try resetting it.
Second...all that for mods and expense but no where did I see that you ran codes. This should be the basics of this car and should have been the first mod or how to on your list. Codes people codes.
1...problem
2...run codes to see what comes up
3...fix error and if all else fails post issue.
1-2-3
Second...all that for mods and expense but no where did I see that you ran codes. This should be the basics of this car and should have been the first mod or how to on your list. Codes people codes.
1...problem
2...run codes to see what comes up
3...fix error and if all else fails post issue.
1-2-3
#7
Originally Posted by Comorat2x2
Jesus H Christ........I think I've managed to translate the first post. Please understand I do this for the sake of your car only:
Hey I just recently did a swap and now I have an issue with my engine idle. It goes all the way up to 2000 then to 300 RPMS, and sometimes stalls. It doesn’t do this when its cold, rather it idles at 1100.
I have checked for boost or vacuum leaks and found none. My boost hits 17 PSI no problem. I changed the AAC valve and FICD solenoid and did the following misc. work:
all new vacuum lines
new stage 2 heads from Z1
doolz intake
apexi boost controler
rps flywheel
Ur pulley,Rfl blow off's
plx r 500, AFC controler
Z1 ecu upgrade
850 cc injectors
devorce pipes
test pipes
cat back
full tien coil overs
solid sub bushings
new dif urthane bushings
front upper and rear upper control arms
traction arms
toe arms
ra-1 toyo tires
stilling sway bars
SPL fender braces
alpine system.
Everything else works fine and the only issue is with the idle.
Please help thanks.
Hey I just recently did a swap and now I have an issue with my engine idle. It goes all the way up to 2000 then to 300 RPMS, and sometimes stalls. It doesn’t do this when its cold, rather it idles at 1100.
I have checked for boost or vacuum leaks and found none. My boost hits 17 PSI no problem. I changed the AAC valve and FICD solenoid and did the following misc. work:
all new vacuum lines
new stage 2 heads from Z1
doolz intake
apexi boost controler
rps flywheel
Ur pulley,Rfl blow off's
plx r 500, AFC controler
Z1 ecu upgrade
850 cc injectors
devorce pipes
test pipes
cat back
full tien coil overs
solid sub bushings
new dif urthane bushings
front upper and rear upper control arms
traction arms
toe arms
ra-1 toyo tires
stilling sway bars
SPL fender braces
alpine system.
Everything else works fine and the only issue is with the idle.
Please help thanks.
#9
unstable idle
i think i had this problem on my 1990 300zx, i took it to the dealer and they replaced the power transister (under a recall notice) but it sounds to me that you have an initial start up problem like a MAF sensor problem, perhaps your car gets too much or not enough air, isn't there a valve or bypass that opens/closes to allow the car to run a bit rich on initial start up? I'm just brainstorming here, been a while since ive had any kind of idle problem on any car.
#10
Just in case... I came across a post from a guy I know on another forum. He is astonishing in knowledge. I did remember this post and came back to share just in case. Regarding the TPS
"..... It is located on the drivers side throttle body. It looks like a small black box that has two harnesses attached. You need to check the adjustment using a digital volt meter. Get a thin paperclip or small wire and insert the wire into the back of the gray harness center lead (white) leaving the harness connected. Now turn the ignition on but do not start the car. Ground the negative lead on the volt meter and touch the positive lead to the small wire. You should have a voltage reading. Adjust the TPS by loosening the small 8mm bolts that attach it to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you get a reading of .45-.48 volts. Once that is done tighten the small mounting bolts and remove the wire from the harness. Now disconnect the harness and start the car. Set the idle using the IAA unit idle adjusting screw to around 750-800 rmp with the headlights on and let it idle for around 1 minute checking to see if it remains steady. If so then connect the harness while the engine is running and you should be good to go."
"..... It is located on the drivers side throttle body. It looks like a small black box that has two harnesses attached. You need to check the adjustment using a digital volt meter. Get a thin paperclip or small wire and insert the wire into the back of the gray harness center lead (white) leaving the harness connected. Now turn the ignition on but do not start the car. Ground the negative lead on the volt meter and touch the positive lead to the small wire. You should have a voltage reading. Adjust the TPS by loosening the small 8mm bolts that attach it to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you get a reading of .45-.48 volts. Once that is done tighten the small mounting bolts and remove the wire from the harness. Now disconnect the harness and start the car. Set the idle using the IAA unit idle adjusting screw to around 750-800 rmp with the headlights on and let it idle for around 1 minute checking to see if it remains steady. If so then connect the harness while the engine is running and you should be good to go."
#13
Originally Posted by domsgarage
Check your **** valve.
((91 beat me to the hydro power comment))
((91 beat me to the hydro power comment))
Originally Posted by 91zxtt
I haven't been on this site very much recently so I have to ask this....what happened to the hydro power?
#14
For someone who was so adament about that Hydro power setup, you sure did kick it to the curb in a big fat hurry and to go with a TT swap.
BTW,...those headgaskets that you're talking about are Cometic, not Cosmetic. Big difference.
BTW,...those headgaskets that you're talking about are Cometic, not Cosmetic. Big difference.
#15
Originally Posted by 91zxtt
For someone who was so adament about that Hydro power setup, you sure did kick it to the curb in a big fat hurry and to go with a TT swap.
BTW,...those headgaskets that you're talking about are Cometic, not Cosmetic. Big difference.
BTW,...those headgaskets that you're talking about are Cometic, not Cosmetic. Big difference.
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