but is it not more expensive to get the one piece then to get the 2 piece and the carrier? last i looked, the OEM shaft was in the 300's or something.

and thanks for the clarrification. but isn't that the one that connects to the hose that meets the middle of the balance tube? that's the one i cleaned with wd-40 i thought... or was that something else?

 

I'd have to see a pic, but with how you described it, it sounds like the IACV.

And how many people actually have to replace the entire drive shaft? Nobody I know. Normally it's sufficient to replace the center support bearing (a.k.a. carrier bearing), which is $125.

 

i believe you are talking about the air regulator, which is connected to the IACV, which is on the back drivers side of the plenum.

 

the one that i have to wack is one that has a connector that points toward the right side of the car and it is located on the drivers side of the back of the plenum. it's kinda long. the other one, on the top, seems to be working, because i can do the pinch test without having an effect on the idle

the best mechanic at the closest Z shop told me after i replace my carrier bearing that failures in those bearings was almost always due to a bad U-joint. the extra stress from the flat spot in the u-joint causes the bushing to break. quite often at least. not to say that the carrier bearing couldn't go out on it's own, but since i replaced mine, and now i have a shake coming back, i stronly advise anyone with a bad carrier to get a one piece instead. if you can check all of your u-joints and prove them to move perfectly well, then maybe just the carrier is sufficient.

 

here is a pretty simple question:
my drivers side door clicks or knocks when i close it, and the passenger door is perfect. i had the problem in my honda and just replaced the bolt that the door swung on. the hinge i guess you'd call it. but that door, you could lift up and down. the z door won't move any, so i think it may be a problem on the part of the latch on the body. what usually causes this? i know its happened to plenty of high mileage z's!

 

ok here's another bit of a question. a bit more difficult...
i'm pretty sure that this is the throw-out bearing. when the car is at all cold, or not driven for a few minutes, there is a terrible loud grinding sound and a bit of a scraping feel from the clutch pedel when the clutch goes in. it goes away after a bit of careful driving, and everything still works fine. i'm just being REALLY careful and easy with it.

it's getting worse and worse, so i think i'm ordering a bearing tomarow and changing it next saterday. anything else that could cause this? not a pressure plate i hope...
BTW, while i'm in there, can anyone give me a mm measurement on the clutch disc? i want to see how very old it is. it feels perfect to me, so i'm hoping to leave it for a while. but if it is too worn down, i guess i'll have to go ahead and do it.

if **** keeps going wrong i'll never be able to afford to fix the brakes!!!!

 

should be the throw out bearing. if you do pull the tranny, get new fluid, rear main seal and tranny seal. honestly, id also get a new clutch and resurface the flywheel, just so you wouldnt have to drop the tranny again. but that depends on how those two parts look.

btw, if you havent thrown it away yet, try selling your carrier bearing before you decide to throw it away. theres plenty of people who will buy it

 

i didn't go over to the one piece and my old carrier was totally shredded. it came off in 2 pieces.
but thanks for the advise. which tranny seal would be the one that you are reffering to? it does leak a bit.

 

well i ordered the throw out bearing today. $44. i hope there isn't anything else wrong. or that nothing else goes wrong in the next week of driving!

 

i got my new IAA from hoov and put it on. no change. it doesn't rev quite as high at start up as it used to, but warm idle is still about 1100. air regulator next? i just don't know. i was really counting on that fixing it. only about 2 more things that i know of to try. and at $60 a piece, i'm not putting new o2 sensors on it for the last few months of ownership

 

check the resistance on the iacv and the aru

 

and the gasket under the cover inside the bellhousing...i forget what that piece is called

well, just do the rear tranny seal as well

 

i guess i'll see it when i get in there. thanks for the advise. i'll check those things next

 

well, sadly, i'm thinking i may have to be selling the Z. with gas the way it is, and parts as high as they are for the car, i don't think it's my best choice to go through college with. so, expect to see a for sale thread for it in a few weeks.

but for now, how about some help with the price?

so, i have $9000 total in the car. i bought it for 4, and put 5 more into it. it is almost mechanically perfect. rebuilt heads, new valves, new OEM injectors, pcv valves, timing belt, tentioner, middle idler, drive belts, carrier bearing, gear oils changes, all new tires, new PTU, short shifter, new paint (on body and wheels), and much much more.

basically, the condition is... a few dents, interior is not fully attatched because i... 1. don't care and 2. can't figure it out (meaning the panels in the back and a few other small things). a few small paint chips, slow T-top leak, some others.

tinted glass, ricer exhaust.

162,XXX miles on the car, not the heads. it holds oil pressure, doesn't leak, and just drives great. completely reliable for about 4 months strait now.

i'm hoping for $6K.... crazy?

 

6k is doable if you finish the interior and try doing a detail job on the paint and stop the leak thats all easy stuff.

 

yea those are some pretty big things. how do you fix T-top leaks? i know where it is, or the general vicinity, but what do i put on it?

 

new stripping probably. lol.

 

last i saw, T-top seals were around $500 a side

 

ummmm... definitely not, you get a tard reward for the day because of that. lol.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SWR04F

500 is the cost of an entire body seal kit MAYBE cause i know its about 300 for all the new weather seals in an S30.

 

wow. i'll take that award proudly now! well that's good news. thanks. but on that one, i'd rather just sell it on a sunny day, if you know what i mean...

 

yeah thats what i did. lol. then after i sold it sooooo much more went wrong with it other than a bum cylinder and the tiny tiny leak in the t-top. but yeah i still got 5k for it. i needed that car gone so i disguised a few problems but a few more showed up on him that i was surprised about but w/e

 

any other advise on a price? any interest even? i just want to see if this is a rediculous price and that i need to change my plans. but when i was looking for a car, i considered myself very lucky to find a good driving one for 4K.

 

what happened to my pics on this thread? anyway, just for closure, i'm going to mention that i am keeping the car, and painting it white. i have 4 years to get it ready for a turbo swap. i will do the suspension, the interior, and the paint, and take the spoiler off.