I only see the 120K kit at courtesyparts.com..I'm thinking I only need the 60k as I probably won't have the car for another 120K..

 

Nevermind I found for $477.65...a lot cheaper than the $707.53. How important is a warranty on the parts? I have a feeling they will say they are charging more because the parts are under warranty.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-p...996-c-882.html

 

With nissan parts you really don't have to worry about the warranty. I would be more worried about their warranty if the mechanic ****s up.

 

Good point. Can you shed some light on the unorthadox pulley set and why this is recommended during timing belt change?

 

Because in order to do the timing belt you have to remove all of the belts and everything in front of the motor anyway.

 

ZLover..any other input? Where to buy, what to buy, how much should I be spending?

 

Bump..anyone?

Timing and water pump replaced..still a slight misfire..wtf. The next thing they are telling me is to replace the CAS. I would really like some more information on this. How would I be able to test if its bad? They tried telling me $450 for the part with another $50 in labor..time to pick up the car. Anyone have an extra one laying around?

 

Couple thoughts...

Check a wiring diagram and make sure your injectors and coil packs are wired to the right cylinders. One boneheaded mechanic wired my injectors wrong, then a much smarter one diagnosed this as the problem.

There are two connectors at the back of the plenum that can be mixed up and cause problems. The VTC and something else (someone else chime in on details). As far as I know it won't throw a code though.

 

And to clarify, the two connectors at the back of the plenum is a separate thing than checking the injector/coil pack wiring.

 

Sorry I didn't catch this before. I would post on the TT.net classifieds for one. I would highly recommend once again ohming every injnector and every coil pack...

 

Guess I should come on here more often. Stop wasting your money. Bring your car by and I can look it over. I'm off 108th and Wads so not too far from Boulder.

 

Have to remember hes at altitude. NA seems to do about numbers around 150 here, TTs are 120-130. So the numbers posted are lower than normal. But also depends how the guy did the test.

 

What I'm seeing is a lot of misdiagnosing and people having you just throw parts at the issue hoping to fix it. So lots of "wasted" money on parts and way too high of labor prices. I say wasted as the parts didnt fix the issue, but the one good thing is you have lots of new parts now that will help narrow the issue down. But it also goes back to if they installed said parts correctly. $50 to swap out a CAS is a total ripoff. And I have an extra I can try if I think thats the issue once I look it over. I answered your post over on TT.Net (thats how I found this one) and sent you an email. Lets get the car over to me and get it fixed already .

 

When I first got my 1990 300zx N/A I had the same problem try unplugging the heat censor on top of the thermostat housing, their should be 2 of them one sends the temp to you on your temp gauge in the car (not the one you wanna unplug) the other goes to the computer unplug that one if that one unplugged helps your car run better you need to replace it. it takes 2 sec's it worth a try =]

 

Main issue was a bad/worn out CAS. There are a few other minor things I'm looking at but swapping out the CAS fixed the main issue the car was having. I had a used one and threw it in. Only took about 15 min to find and fix it.