I'm totally confused
08-08-2010, 07:38 PM
#53
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lol I know I know. Well my friend is gonna kill me. I was pulling the heavy IC pipes back out to clean the oil out of them and it slipped from my hand. And smashed out the glass of the passenger(right) headlight. That headlight already needed badly replaced (the adjusting system had silicon all over it sense its was broken) it it still worked. ugh. Evil possessed car. it doesn't want to drive again till its fixed right lol
08-09-2010, 10:51 PM
#54
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Ic boots changed to the proper size and clamps. but the gauge is reading a bit odd. -20 at idle and max of 8 PSI. Uh what is the normal PSI in full boost? 15? Its not throwing anymore codes
08-10-2010, 09:56 AM
#55
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An unmodified TT will boost 9psi in stock configuration. Stage III TTs that are healthy should boost about 14.5psi (safety boost due to a bad detonation sensor or harness will result in boost cut back to ~6psi).
If it still has the stock boost solenoids and no boost controller (or boost jets), ~9psi should be expected (and the gauge can be a little off, looking like ~8psi).
If it still has the stock boost solenoids and no boost controller (or boost jets), ~9psi should be expected (and the gauge can be a little off, looking like ~8psi).
08-11-2010, 10:31 AM
#58
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Have the PVC valves been replaced? (If you've already answered, deal with answering again, because I'm not motivated enough to skim through 3 pages to find it - this is the problem with vbulletin forum styles.)
08-11-2010, 11:33 AM
#60
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Well there are two ways oil can get to the intake... either from malfunctioning PVC valves (which cost less than $20 or so to replace), or blown turbos (which can cost over $2000 to replace)...
08-11-2010, 11:44 AM
#61
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If I under the lower IC pipes there will be enough oil after a 10 min right to leave a good sized puddle on the ground (about a foot across) I think the crankcase might have been overfilled as its not going down any. Hmm I'll change the PCV valves.
Would oil actually get almost to the MAF if it was a PCV valve tho? Also the PCV system isn't hooked up like a Normal TT, that lines from the valve covers have breathers on them then rest is hooked up like normal.
Would oil actually get almost to the MAF if it was a PCV valve tho? Also the PCV system isn't hooked up like a Normal TT, that lines from the valve covers have breathers on them then rest is hooked up like normal.
08-11-2010, 11:59 AM
#62
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lol These morons really f*cked up everything. I hope you're getting paid serious money to fix this car.
Yes, a bad PVC system can spew enough oil for it to reach the MAF... it does so thanks to the recirculation valves, which forces air from the high-pressure side to the low pressure side (between the MAF and turbo) upon throttle release. Turbos are actually more likely (in my opinion) if it's reaching the MAF, though... but still start with the much cheaper PVC valves.
Replace the PVC valves and plumb the system PROPERLY. This doesn't mean it has to be exactly how it was from the factory, but it does mean NO BREATHERS.
Yes, a bad PVC system can spew enough oil for it to reach the MAF... it does so thanks to the recirculation valves, which forces air from the high-pressure side to the low pressure side (between the MAF and turbo) upon throttle release. Turbos are actually more likely (in my opinion) if it's reaching the MAF, though... but still start with the much cheaper PVC valves.
Replace the PVC valves and plumb the system PROPERLY. This doesn't mean it has to be exactly how it was from the factory, but it does mean NO BREATHERS.
08-11-2010, 12:11 PM
#63
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Blow-by past the rings is an eventual result of a motor wearing out. If you are getting alot of oil in the intake, because of blow-by, then you may consider running an oil catch-can. This is the main reason people run oil catch-cans.
08-11-2010, 12:15 PM
#64
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lol These morons really f*cked up everything. I hope you're getting paid serious money to fix this car.
Yes, a bad PVC system can spew enough oil for it to reach the MAF... it does so thanks to the recirculation valves, which forces air from the high-pressure side to the low pressure side (between the MAF and turbo) upon throttle release. Turbos are actually more likely (in my opinion) if it's reaching the MAF, though... but still start with the much cheaper PVC valves.
Replace the PVC valves and plumb the system PROPERLY. This doesn't mean it has to be exactly how it was from the factory, but it does mean NO BREATHERS.
Yes, a bad PVC system can spew enough oil for it to reach the MAF... it does so thanks to the recirculation valves, which forces air from the high-pressure side to the low pressure side (between the MAF and turbo) upon throttle release. Turbos are actually more likely (in my opinion) if it's reaching the MAF, though... but still start with the much cheaper PVC valves.
Replace the PVC valves and plumb the system PROPERLY. This doesn't mean it has to be exactly how it was from the factory, but it does mean NO BREATHERS.
And uh... it doesnt have the recirculation valves. At all.
And thats what I told the owner and he just wants it to run I think. I really want to replace the IC pipes with proper ones. and put all the hardware that should be in there, well in there.
Last edited by BlueKitsune; 08-11-2010 at 12:18 PM.
08-11-2010, 12:17 PM
#65
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You can get oil in the intake, through the PCV's, even with perfectly good working PCV's. In fact, the PCV's aren't designed to stop oil from getting into the intake. At the most, those little wire brushes in the PCV hoses are intrended to catch most of the oil vapors. When you get oil in the intake, via the PCV's, it almost always because of lots of blow-by past the rings. The hot air vaporizes the oil in the crankcase, and the oil is carried to the intake by the "positive air flow" function of the PCV system.
Blow-by past the rings is an eventual result of a motor wearing out. If you are getting alot of oil in the intake, because of blow-by, then you may consider running an oil catch-can. This is the main reason people run oil catch-cans.
Blow-by past the rings is an eventual result of a motor wearing out. If you are getting alot of oil in the intake, because of blow-by, then you may consider running an oil catch-can. This is the main reason people run oil catch-cans.
08-12-2010, 07:47 PM
#66
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Oh hey. Still oil after the PCV is clean. not as much but it still leaves a puddle if I undo the Ic pips.
and I found out that this Z has had its temp needle pegged at its max at lest 8+ times. for how long idk. how ever long it took to turn the heater on to drop the coolant temp. but idk about the oil temp.
EDIT: How much do you think this Z is worth? the body is in ok shape.
and I found out that this Z has had its temp needle pegged at its max at lest 8+ times. for how long idk. how ever long it took to turn the heater on to drop the coolant temp. but idk about the oil temp.
EDIT: How much do you think this Z is worth? the body is in ok shape.
Last edited by BlueKitsune; 08-12-2010 at 09:58 PM.
08-13-2010, 05:10 AM
#67
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Oil in the I/C piping would suggest bad turbos as Zlover suggested. I'd quit worrying about that and work on the root cause of your overheating problem. You might consider a cooling system pressure test, and a compression test.
08-13-2010, 10:35 AM
#68
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I know and thats what I'm working on now. its got a big fat aluminum radiator thats been cleaned out. New water pump, new T-stat, new lines, an a new cap. the fan shroud is gone so I installed a pusher fan where the OEM one would have been. but the ECU doesn't want to ground the relay for the fan either.
Also I noticed the oil cooler was gone and bypassed, so the owner gave me an auto trans oil cooler to install. Will that even work?
Also I noticed the oil cooler was gone and bypassed, so the owner gave me an auto trans oil cooler to install. Will that even work?
08-13-2010, 10:38 AM
#69
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Well if it's a conversion, it wouldn't have had an oil cooler, if memory serves (I don't think NAs came with them). A trans cooler is basically the same thing, though... they're just air-to-liquid cooling devices, regardless of the kind of fluid that flows through them.
08-13-2010, 05:32 PM
#71
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All of the fancy new parts are moot if you have a melted piston, or partially blown head gasket. You could consider the overheating and oil in the intake to be related, but the immediate problem is the overheating. Buying used motors are a crapshoot at best.
08-13-2010, 06:23 PM
#72
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Ya I know. And so far everything has tested out just fine. everything is clean or new, fresh coolant, systems burped. Still overheats. even when cruising at 65mph. I thought the gauge might be reading wrong so I cleaned the connectors of any tarnish and still its the same issue. at idle for long time it wont get hot at all. after cruising around for like 10-15 min that needle will climb up then peg itself unless the heater is turned onto full at which it then sits right at half.
ideas? I really dont know what to do.
EDIT:Uh I may have just killed 2 birds with one stone. but aren't the turbos cooled with coolant too? They might be bad and leaking oil the getting far to hot for the system to handle without extra help. Or am I just looking like an idiot right now lol
ideas? I really dont know what to do.
EDIT:Uh I may have just killed 2 birds with one stone. but aren't the turbos cooled with coolant too? They might be bad and leaking oil the getting far to hot for the system to handle without extra help. Or am I just looking like an idiot right now lol
Last edited by BlueKitsune; 08-13-2010 at 06:48 PM.
08-14-2010, 12:25 PM
#73
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I got the pusher fan working again. but the car still wants to try to overheat but it doesn't go over 3/4s now. its better then getting into the red but that still seems to high for a Z. Hmm, maybe with the oil cooler it wont go so high? I'm just waiting on a mounting kit for that.
08-14-2010, 04:03 PM
#74
Do you have an infrared thermometer?
Use it to check the ACTUAL temp of the coolant at the thermostat housing, and the radiator out port... there should be a 20-30 degree drop if the radiator is working.
Use it to check the ACTUAL temp of the coolant at the thermostat housing, and the radiator out port... there should be a 20-30 degree drop if the radiator is working.
