Help! Few Issues: Where to mount SBC? Boost Spikes, Leaks, EGR light, Suspension, Rad
06-29-2007, 08:12 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1
Help! Few Issues: Where to mount SBC? Boost Spikes, Leaks, EGR light, Suspension, Rad
Hi guys,
we are having a few issues with a 1990 TT.
We did alot of research in here and TT.net but still have some questions, and maybe someone can link the problems together etc...
MODS:
JWT Stage 3 ECU
JWT Single POP intake
Blitz SBC ID3 boost controller
RPS clutch & Flywheel
The car is running the stock exhaust with gutted cats. (Waiting for a SpecialtyZ system; downpipes and cat back.)
We tested it with Conzult, everything was fine. Power balance test was ok, and everything else seems normal.
SBC PROBLEMS:
First we installed the Blitz ID-3 using this guide from TT.net:
http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.asp...cal&dtSearch=0
It says to mount the boost solenoid to the firewall behind the battery, thats what we did. Everything has been hooked up properly and we also installed the power meter ID and hooked it up to the speed wire Pin #53 from the ecu harness. We are experiencing unusual boost spikes. I talked to many people and their settings for 15 LBS are around GAIN: 10-15 and a SET: ~40. However when we have our SET to 35 and whatever GAIN we use it spikes to 15.0 - 15.5. Only when the GAIN is 0 that we dont get any boost spikes at all. These seems like really low numbers. (SET 35 GAIN 0). We set the limiter to 14 and because of the spike while testing it went all the way to 15.6.
What is the max boost the stock engine, stock turbo, stock injectors can take for a similar setup. We run on Octane 94.
Not sure what could be the problem, Vacuum leaks? Location of the Blitz solenoid module? Where is the best place to mount it? Also do the vacuums need the same exact exact length between the solenoid and each waste gate? Could the exhaust restrict the car too much?
We used the option B from that guide and left the stock boost solenoid in place and we just disconnected them.
EGR PROBLEM
Once we got the SBC ID 3 installed, we took it for a spin. After around 30-40 mins of driving the check engine light turns showing a EGR System code 32. We double checked all the hoses. Everything seems ok. Not sure what can be the problem. The car is a CALI and use a JWT cali ecu as well. I have been told I could delete the EGR by using a Fed ecu and disconnecting the EGT sensor (They are only on Cal cars). That way the check engine light would dissapear. We dont have any emission test here in quebec so deleting the EGR should not be a problem.
RADIATOR:
We also had the Radiator. The core was perfect, but the sides are in plastic and its leaking from where they connect. we tried tighting up the metal clamp and adding sealer but its still leaking. We ordered an AMS radiator with a Z1 solid lower hose. This should fix this problem.
LEAKS:
We also had a turbo line and the rear main seal leaking oil. We fixed all that while installing the new RPS clutch and flywheel.
Now we have another leak, Its from the passenger side, at the back of the engine. We can hear drops falling then pshhhhhh. I suspect the heater hoses maybe. Another strange thing, when accelerating there is a small rattle that seems to come from behind the dash on the passenger side. Its not very loud but I can hear it well when driving. It started to do that after we installed the SBC I believe. Could it be the pressure in the vacuum that come in from the passenger side fender hole? When detonation happen is it a small noise or its very loud? Just still trying to figure out what could be the problem here.
SUSPENSION:
When going over 200 KM/hour and hitting a small bump the rear want to fishtail. Its scary and hard to control. We originally thought the problem could be an alignment. The car is running still on stock suspension. Maybe the problem is the HICAS. Would installing the HICAS remover Stillen kit fix this problem? What else could cause this?
This Z is hard to work on, there is not much space under the hood!
:cuss:
Thanks
we are having a few issues with a 1990 TT.
We did alot of research in here and TT.net but still have some questions, and maybe someone can link the problems together etc...
MODS:
JWT Stage 3 ECU
JWT Single POP intake
Blitz SBC ID3 boost controller
RPS clutch & Flywheel
The car is running the stock exhaust with gutted cats. (Waiting for a SpecialtyZ system; downpipes and cat back.)
We tested it with Conzult, everything was fine. Power balance test was ok, and everything else seems normal.
SBC PROBLEMS:
First we installed the Blitz ID-3 using this guide from TT.net:
http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.asp...cal&dtSearch=0
It says to mount the boost solenoid to the firewall behind the battery, thats what we did. Everything has been hooked up properly and we also installed the power meter ID and hooked it up to the speed wire Pin #53 from the ecu harness. We are experiencing unusual boost spikes. I talked to many people and their settings for 15 LBS are around GAIN: 10-15 and a SET: ~40. However when we have our SET to 35 and whatever GAIN we use it spikes to 15.0 - 15.5. Only when the GAIN is 0 that we dont get any boost spikes at all. These seems like really low numbers. (SET 35 GAIN 0). We set the limiter to 14 and because of the spike while testing it went all the way to 15.6.
What is the max boost the stock engine, stock turbo, stock injectors can take for a similar setup. We run on Octane 94.
Not sure what could be the problem, Vacuum leaks? Location of the Blitz solenoid module? Where is the best place to mount it? Also do the vacuums need the same exact exact length between the solenoid and each waste gate? Could the exhaust restrict the car too much?
We used the option B from that guide and left the stock boost solenoid in place and we just disconnected them.
EGR PROBLEM
Once we got the SBC ID 3 installed, we took it for a spin. After around 30-40 mins of driving the check engine light turns showing a EGR System code 32. We double checked all the hoses. Everything seems ok. Not sure what can be the problem. The car is a CALI and use a JWT cali ecu as well. I have been told I could delete the EGR by using a Fed ecu and disconnecting the EGT sensor (They are only on Cal cars). That way the check engine light would dissapear. We dont have any emission test here in quebec so deleting the EGR should not be a problem.
RADIATOR:
We also had the Radiator. The core was perfect, but the sides are in plastic and its leaking from where they connect. we tried tighting up the metal clamp and adding sealer but its still leaking. We ordered an AMS radiator with a Z1 solid lower hose. This should fix this problem.
LEAKS:
We also had a turbo line and the rear main seal leaking oil. We fixed all that while installing the new RPS clutch and flywheel.
Now we have another leak, Its from the passenger side, at the back of the engine. We can hear drops falling then pshhhhhh. I suspect the heater hoses maybe. Another strange thing, when accelerating there is a small rattle that seems to come from behind the dash on the passenger side. Its not very loud but I can hear it well when driving. It started to do that after we installed the SBC I believe. Could it be the pressure in the vacuum that come in from the passenger side fender hole? When detonation happen is it a small noise or its very loud? Just still trying to figure out what could be the problem here.
SUSPENSION:
When going over 200 KM/hour and hitting a small bump the rear want to fishtail. Its scary and hard to control. We originally thought the problem could be an alignment. The car is running still on stock suspension. Maybe the problem is the HICAS. Would installing the HICAS remover Stillen kit fix this problem? What else could cause this?
This Z is hard to work on, there is not much space under the hood!
:cuss:
Thanks
06-29-2007, 04:01 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 459
seems like you have some issues
I'm pretty sure the stock set up can take up to about 16.5 psi or 1.15 bar before you run into fuel starvation issues, since you have the JWT ECU upgrade, you can probably run a little higher still. perhaps 18 psi or 1.2 bar.
HICAS isn't supposed to do anything over 75mph or what is that 123kph? So the wobble you are feeling past 200kph is most likely NOT HICAS related. Probably a suspension part going bad....if you press down on the back of the car hard does it bounce up once and stay or does it kinda bounce a few times? If it bounces, you need new shocks/struts.
You are experiencing boost spikes, most likely caused by length of vacuum hose you are using. Your boost controller is monitoring the pressure inside the manifold, use as short a hose as possible to connect to the manifold, secondly use two equal or very close to equal length hose to connect to the actuators on your turbos, again shorter is better than longer. Air compresses if you have a long tube of air and start applying pressure on one end on there will be a delay until the pressure is felt on the other end. If your hoses are as short as possible and you have no leaks in them then you can assume that either the waste gate actuators are going bad or your boost solenoid isn't as healthy as it should be. Another thing that might contribute to it is your gutted cats. Poor exhaust flow can cause Boost problems.
the leak you are most likely experiencing is coming from a turbo water line, probably a pinhole leak that rears its ugly head under pressure, Is the water level dropping quickly in the radiator? can you see steam when you are at idle sitting at a light after you have been driving for a bit?
Do you only hear the rattle when your car is boosting? if so that is the solenoid working and perfectly normal. Pre-detination sounds pretty horrible, I am sure you could tell the difference. Is it a clicking or a very loud ticking?
Ok, I read the write up that you posted, they seemed to go about it the long way...(lots of hose) the stock actuator hose can be re-"fished" up and back so the passenger side one is nearly at the battery and the driver's side one is halfway behind the engine. Simply measure a piece of hose as if you were going to connect these two vacuum lines together, cut it to length, then cut it in half, put in a tee splice and two line splices and you got yourself two equal length vacuum hoses to your actuators run the last hose from your tee to the boost controller and then the common side to the manifold or however they say to do it.
My car exhibits nearly no boost spikes or boost creep due to a fast solenoid and short hoses. I set it to 1.10 bar and it usually hits in around 1.08 to 1.11 about 16 psi and it hits in around 15.7-16.1 psi.
HICAS isn't supposed to do anything over 75mph or what is that 123kph? So the wobble you are feeling past 200kph is most likely NOT HICAS related. Probably a suspension part going bad....if you press down on the back of the car hard does it bounce up once and stay or does it kinda bounce a few times? If it bounces, you need new shocks/struts.
You are experiencing boost spikes, most likely caused by length of vacuum hose you are using. Your boost controller is monitoring the pressure inside the manifold, use as short a hose as possible to connect to the manifold, secondly use two equal or very close to equal length hose to connect to the actuators on your turbos, again shorter is better than longer. Air compresses if you have a long tube of air and start applying pressure on one end on there will be a delay until the pressure is felt on the other end. If your hoses are as short as possible and you have no leaks in them then you can assume that either the waste gate actuators are going bad or your boost solenoid isn't as healthy as it should be. Another thing that might contribute to it is your gutted cats. Poor exhaust flow can cause Boost problems.
the leak you are most likely experiencing is coming from a turbo water line, probably a pinhole leak that rears its ugly head under pressure, Is the water level dropping quickly in the radiator? can you see steam when you are at idle sitting at a light after you have been driving for a bit?
Do you only hear the rattle when your car is boosting? if so that is the solenoid working and perfectly normal. Pre-detination sounds pretty horrible, I am sure you could tell the difference. Is it a clicking or a very loud ticking?
Ok, I read the write up that you posted, they seemed to go about it the long way...(lots of hose) the stock actuator hose can be re-"fished" up and back so the passenger side one is nearly at the battery and the driver's side one is halfway behind the engine. Simply measure a piece of hose as if you were going to connect these two vacuum lines together, cut it to length, then cut it in half, put in a tee splice and two line splices and you got yourself two equal length vacuum hoses to your actuators run the last hose from your tee to the boost controller and then the common side to the manifold or however they say to do it.
My car exhibits nearly no boost spikes or boost creep due to a fast solenoid and short hoses. I set it to 1.10 bar and it usually hits in around 1.08 to 1.11 about 16 psi and it hits in around 15.7-16.1 psi.
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