The_MuffinMan25

1996 Twin Turbo-
So I go out to my car start it up and the light thats orange and comes on for the foglamps is now red and lit up, Also brake light is on but my fluid is fine and yes I put my handbrake down. Also my check engine light is on. Oh and my boost guage doesnt work.

My passenger foglamp got busted when I messed up my front bumper but that red light has not come on so I dont believe that its related. One of the codes I pulled with my OBDII scanner said something about an o2 Sensor heater. I'm going to have to plug my scanner in again and then write down all the codes when I time to do it.

I'm just confused why my boost guage doesnt work now. The owners manual probably tells me what that red light in the foglamp spot means. But I'm at a loss right now.

I just put testpipes and exhaust on my Z Possibly I've driven enough after clearing my engine light (ran with no o2 sensor) to where the ECU has new readings. Is there any reason my check engine light should be on with testpipes instead of cats?

Tim

ZLover4Life

The sensor for the boost gauge is on the driver's side rear of the engine bay (about as far over and back as you can go). It's a line that connects to the balance tube on the passenger's side and travels across the engine bay. If you have no boost gauge, it's likely because that line is disconnected.

Red light in fog lamp spot is something I can't tell you anything about - I've never even heard of that.

Which brake light are you referring to? The ABS light?

And as for the check engine light with test pipes, there are people with 96 TT's that have test pipes and no error codes (many of them actually just tie the O2 sensors out of the way rather than install them), so I'll need more info on what the code actually is.

The_MuffinMan25

The red lighte that says BRAKE. The light that comes on when the handbrake is up. I know that this light will also come on if the brake fluid is low, but as I said I put my hand brake down and my brake fluid is barely below the Max mark on the resovoir.

I'll look and see if the line is undone it was just very strange it happened immediately when these lights came on or minutes later.

I'll check the codes later today and repost. Two codes my scanner found it couldn't identify and I needed to look up so I'll do that.

Also I'll try to get a vid of it but if I rev my engine a little bit (2-3K) or redline status, after/the moment it has backed down to idle I hear air being released its really choppy. I dont believe it's my wastegate or recircs but It does seem to come from the driverside. Also with my leg out the car I can feel an increase in warm air passing by from underneath. I havn't tried this on the pass side to see if it just regular for the air to flow like that after revving the car I'll have to check that too.

Thanks Zlover you are one of the most dedicated person I've seen on a forum.

Tim

ZLover4Life

Would not likely be the wastegate, that's an exhaust component and internal ones (like ours) don't make much noise. Sounds like a vacuum leak... probably the one causing the lack of a boost gauge. Could be the recirculation valves, but there's no good reason that you wouldn't have noticed that earlier on.

Or you could have some major wiring issues causing all your problems, but I wouldn't consider wiring to be a problem spot on the Z32.

And you're welcome... if I wasn't helpful, I would've been banned from the forums long ago, I'm sure.

The_MuffinMan25

Its actually my Eng. Cont. Fuse (Engine Control Fuse) I replaced it and all the lights went away. I went and cleared the check engine light and when I started it up again the lights came back on I went and checked and the fuse blew. I've read that this fuse is a 10amp but the prvious owner had a 15amp there and thats what I replaced it with. (I know a higher rating can only hurt my car and wouldnt blow a fuse unless I had too low of an amp fuse)

I looked and the Relay Box and all it's fuses connect to a fat harness that goes back and through the firewall. Any ideas whats wrong. Frayed wire grounding or shorting out? Bdd connection somewhere?..... I'm at a loss. Hopefully Whatevers up wont effect my gas mileage I leave tomorrow morning @ 4AM for San Diego (600mi drive from Sacramento).

I'll keep searching the forums I found another forum where someone had the same problem but he never said if he got it fixed. I'll try messaging him.

Thanks for any help you guys can give!

TIm

The_MuffinMan25

Actually I guess the 96 has a different relay Box so my fuse is suppose to be a 15amp.

KasbeKZ

did you say people with test pipes tie the O2 sensors out of the way? you mean run the car without O2 sensors? isn't that one of the major components that allows the fuel injected car to keep proper fuel mixture?

i hope you make it to san diego! but the z does seem like one of those cars that will always get you were you need to go, even if it does "break down". i've made a 15 minute drive home on 4 cylinders.

The_MuffinMan25

I definitly didn't say run with o2's tied up. I've heard of o2 eliminators. that plug into the connector for the o2 sensors and makes it so everything runs ok and with no codes getting thrown. I'm sure the Z will be fine I'll check all the fluids each stop. If you guys got nothing for me when I get back sunday I might just have to suck it up and drop $40-$70 buck for my work to diagnose the problem and either have them fix it or attempt to fix it myself depending if I have the ability to.

Thanks for wishing me luck!

Tim

ZLover4Life

OBDII cars (like the 96 Z32) have 2 sets of O2 sensors. The set in the precats are left alone (aftermarket downpipes have a spot for the sensors), but the people I've seen with test pipes on 96's just tie the sensor out of the way. I am in no way an expert on OBDII, so I cannot tell you the purpose of the second set, but if it was a huge deal I can assure you the people I know would not have done it that way (they are reputable Z owners with VERY high performing Z32's).

KasbeKZ

oh i see. i'd never heard of the 2nd sensor. 3rd rather. thanks

snwbrderphat540

you hear air? could it be the AIV's if you didnt eliminate them when you did the test pipe removal cause dont they pump air for the cat's in the stock exhaust system and with them gone if you just left the tubes there they are still technically moving air. could be what you hear. unless they lost that crap for OBDII or something or is a different route on the TT compared to the NA.

ZLover4Life

AIV's were eliminated from production in 1993.

The_MuffinMan25

I believe I heard the sound before. I'm going to make a vid right now of the sound and post up my engine codes. I was able to swap the ENG CONT fuse while the car was running and it hasn't blown since. I believe my engine codes are for the o2 or something related I'll post up in like 30 min. Also is 21 MPG "Highway" decent for my car. Unorthodox Pulley Set, Stillen Intake, Testpipes, HKS Hi-Power Exhaust, and 17's with 265/40 in the rear and 235/45 in the front? I get 18 in the city if I drive like a smart person...

I thought I'd get more we have 19 gallon tanks right? Oh on my trip I ran out of gas. Took me and 3 other guys to push it up a small incline to get to a parking space. Stupid heavy cars!!!! =)

Post info soon- Tim

snwbrderphat540

i see.... i figured they would have so i look dumb for the suggestion. i was thinking, watch them get eliminated for 96 haha. anyways i definatly dont remember what size tank it was but i want to say 17 gall. also these cars arent that heavy your just weak. lol. that or maybe your wheel bearings are going to **** could also be the reason for gas mileage cause though our city sounds normal the highway mileage sounds a bit low to me.

The_MuffinMan25

I have one code which reads: P0141 O2 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 2)

I had this code as well as one that read Bank 2 Sensor 2 and when I put my passengerside O2 sensor in (only had driver in @ time) That code went away. I'm thinking that the shop I had re-align my exhaust and install the driver O2 sensor might have not done something right. I'll take it to them tomorrow to check it out.

If you get antiseize (the putty stuff) on the end of an O2 sensore will it ruin it. The kid who welded the bungs into my testpipes and installed the one O2 sensor wiped a bunch of anti seize in the bung and tried screwing in the O2 sensor he had to pull it out and when he did I saw there was antiseize all over the end of it.

I thought about saying something but I thought It would burn off or he knew what he was doin and it was okay. I guess I should have followed through with my thoughts and said something.

If the sensor is ruined then they just bought me a $93 O2 sensor (thats with my employee discount I dont want to know the jacked up price!)

Oh I recorded I vid of my car but you cannot hear the noise you have to be standing there to hear it. It's like a hissing, while the rev's drop from around 3K to idle you hear it. I'll try different ways to record it....

Tim

The_MuffinMan25

My wheels spin like butter when the cars jacked up. Hey the cars what 4200lbs plus I was out swimming and boogie boarding for 8 hours before hand give me a break

The_MuffinMan25

I also had the AC blowing not on max but on the second or first setting. I figure better mileage with AC then windows down right?

The_MuffinMan25

My Testpipes are still leaking where they connect to the HKS. I'll have my exhaust shop try to fix the leak again (I had them do it last time I came in) That may be what the sound was but I'm still not convinced thats what it is. I'll let you guys know If I get the sound and my code fixed. I hope I do... Also Wednesday I'll be @ the Sac raceway so I'll be posting up new times. Hopefully the Exhaust and a short throw shifter will help me, also better launching skills.

Tim

rtmorgan

hey muffin i know this out of the blue but do you play css?
i know a guy on css with the same exact name almost

snwbrderphat540

HEY YEAH ^^^^^ ive seen that muffin name before on CSS. haha. i doubt anti sieze can ruin anything the O2 sensor stands up to howmany hundreds of degrees. the heater circuit is just out, the O2 sensors pre-heat themselves thats why they have more than 2 wires going to them. so the wire could be broke or a fuse maybe not sure never looked into it but i doubt its a big deal. also 4200 lbs? this isnt a truck! lol

your almost 1000lbs off there buddy. try 3300lbs.

The_MuffinMan25

CSS= Counter Strike Source??? Uh not me I used to play on Xbox Live but now for a while. Theres a few people who try to fake like there like me but its not me I usually use a 25 at the end of it because themuffinman is usually taken. Heater Circuit huh? I'll look for a fuse. I just had the sensor replaced so I doubt its broken unless the shop installed it wrong. I'll read up more about it.

The_MuffinMan25

And alright edmunds says 3502lbs for the curb weight so I suppose I overestimated a bit.

snwbrderphat540

yeaht thats what it means by heater circuit i do believe, but that sounds like thats your only code left which if it is, isnt a big deal shouldnt effect anything except MAYBE ever so slightly the o2 readings during the first few minutes of operation. but idk for sure dont quote me on that

The_MuffinMan25

That is my only code. Is there a fuse for it? I hate taking off the fuse cover by our feet the stupid wiring harness makes it hard to get the top part to slide on. I'm not a stick so laying on my back down there is a pain in the a$$

I dont believe there is anything relating to it in te relay box under the hood or in the fuse box by the battery so that leaves the fusebox by our feet so please let me know if there is a fuse there for the O2 heater circuit or what to check.

Thanks Tim

snwbrderphat540

idk, i dont own a Z32 havent for a few years so my knowledge about them is from what i used to research, general car knowledge and what i remember from experience, oh and i did a bunch of research on them a few months back cause i was bored. so idk thats all i got to say for now haha