Hey guys whats up I have got a question. when i'm driving and hit my brakes the steering wheel shimmys pretty hard. Now I have got new tires so it's not the tires out of balance.

Yesterday I got an oil change at my car lot I work at and I had a chance to get under the vehicle. I noticed that there are 2 rods with boots on them going to my front tires. Both boots are busted and on the driver side there is an oily substance on the rubber boot. Mechanic said something like power steering pump or fluid or something. I want to know if this could be part or most of my shimmy issue when I hit the brakes.

I also want to know what I should upgrade under there while im repairing these boots. I also have the 120k maintenance coming in about 5-6k how much in labor should it cost me if I buy all the parts for the 120k?

THanx in advance !

 

I'm guessing those are your CV boots that you're talking about. You'll have to replace them eventually dirt will get in your wheel bearings and ruin them. You're shimmy problem is 98% likely that your rotors are warped.

 

Did you happen to look at your Tension rods while you were under there?
I bet the bushings are worn and that's causing your shaking.
I have the same problem.

 

Can be anyone of these - warped rotors, steering rack bushings shot, tension rod bushings shot.

I would check the warped rotors, as this is usually the #1 cause of heavy shake under braking.

 

I am changing the tie rods....inner and outer on both sides!.....also I think I am just gonna change the front rotors and upgrade them and possibly get cross drilled one's then eventually get one's for the rear!.....Me and my dad are gonna do the shocks and springs anything else I should look for !

 

if you change the tie rods you'll need an alignment.
Check the Tension Rods while you're at it.

 

I got the inner and outer tie rods, rotors and pads for like 260 from my dealer.... and my newly aquired mechanic is charging between 250 and 300 including alignment for the labor does this sound reasonable? can I change the tension rods without having to get another alignment? After all this I cant wait to do the shocks and springs!....damn I am poor!

 

CV boots in the front on a rear wheel drive car??? There's something new.

 

sorry, missed that. Just a question, it might be more cost effective to have your mechanic diagnose the problem and then fix that problem....or DIY. I wouldn't spend unneccessary $ fixing things that are good.

 

no answer to my questions?

 

Read the second part of my post....I wouldn't fix things that I'm not sure if they're bad or not...especially when on a budget. If you can't diagnose which part exactly, go with the cheap stuff and work your way up. The prices seem fair...not amazing, but fair.

 

Just got my car fixed and it brakes and feels damn good!....There is a slight shimmy at 60-65mph very slight then goes away if I am under over that speed limit. When braking everything is great, no wobbles or shimmy at all! I calculated and I got 55$ off what Advance auto would have charged me personally! I paid 266! and 260 for labor and a 4 wheel alignment! Seems ok I was hoping for a tad cheaper on the labor oh well!

I know I ask really trivial and or retarded questions but what improvements should I notice with these parts being replaced?....Other than no wobbles or shimmy?....I still need to no if I change the tension rods will I need another alignment?......Also if I change the shocks and springs will I need another alignment?....

 

if you change any part of your suspension you will need an alignment...especially if you lower your car and tension rods. ALso the shimmy at 60-65 is from unbalanced wheels or a bent rim. Id take it back to them and tell them it is doing that and they will rebalance your wheels.

 

yep rebalance your wheels (probably front).

 

Thanx guys I am going to be replacing the shocks and springs next. Another alignment will suck seems like an unecassary additional cost. After that I am about 5k away from the 120k maintenance and I got an estimate of 300$ plus parts!

 

$300 dollars labor doesn't sound too steep to me.
look at sgp, coz, or courtesy for the 60-120k mile kit.
some say you should change the pulleys too, but i just see it as an additional cost. up to you if you wanna go that route.

 

I have a shimmy at about 60 that goes away and im positive its the carrier bearing for the drive shaft. I've had my weels ballenced 3 times to fix this problem and no luck.

 

well, time for a one piece DS then.

 

Yesiree bob. Only about $300 from Z1. Well worth it and farily easy to install.