joselitopr

So I got the car running almost perfect,so I decided to install the boost controller.On the meantime I drop the MAF .I got everything back together and the first thing coming out the drive way is backfire and a lot of hesitation.The boost is not steady anymore is all jumpy even at low boost .I had it up to 8 psi and back down to 5 ,and the car slam right on it face on wot around 3500 rpm.The car is and 88 turbo.Question will this turbo reach 10 psi or more even if it blow up?I want to know to make sure I dint blow the turbo. By the after market gauge I dint past 8 psi.

zxguy1986

Welcome to ZDriver

Can you tell us a little more about your Z model, year, tranny, etc? Also, what aftermarket boost controller did you install? Where did you get it?

At 8-10 psi max, you probably didn't do any damage to anything. But please explain what happened with your MAF... that could be important.

joselitopr

It is a 88 turbo stock and manual transmission.The boost controller is a manual Turbo xs dual stage got it from a friend never used.The Maf well I dropped to the floor ,so I may had damaged.I ran the codes and at first I got code 12 Air flow sensor by nissan FSM I believe it is the MAF .Then I ran the codes again and the second time I got code 55 normal .I did disconnect the MAF while at idle and it make no difference ,but it wont go pass 2000 rpms.

rogerz

long shot but the turbo has a speed limiter. if you can rev the car in neutral above 2000 but it won't go above 2000 while traveling on the road might be the problem. how hard did you drop the maf. perform the tests shown in the fsm to find out if maf is okay. you need to plug off the blow off valve on the right side forward to get boost above its setting. I ran my 85 and 86T's. at 10psi. is your waste gate free and working? Why did you take the MAF off?
further unsolicited advice: Read the manual before you pick up a wrench!!
fsm free at xenon
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion. DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.

Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.

If you are doing a turbo car shocks (electro adjust I think may be only on the turbos) then you need the adapter plates to fit modern shocks to the car. Easiest way is find an n/a at the junkyard and take the mounting plates. They may be available thru NAPA (listed) but I had the n/a plates.