10psi, hp? 0-60times?
#1
10psi, hp? 0-60times?
I just put a manual boost controller on my 85 300zxT. I set it and got it at perfect 10psi on first try, it runs good! Any way how much HP would yall guess is getting to the wheels now? 210? Engine is probaly making 260 but thats not to the ground. Also any one know what the 0-60mph time is for stock except 10psi on T3? I want to dyno my car after I remove cat off of my exhaust
#2
Find the post of my dyno slip I was running 10 psi open exhaust and intake. If you are still running stock exhaust there is now way you are getting 210 to the wheels.
O yea 0-60 is a bit shorter longer than the new mustang gt's. Thats of course if you have weight reduction.
O yea 0-60 is a bit shorter longer than the new mustang gt's. Thats of course if you have weight reduction.
#3
Any other modifications done? Intake? Exhaust? etc.
More than likely, you're pushing 200 to 210hp to the rear wheels. Which means about 230 to 240hp at the crank. That is of course, if the rest of your car is running properly.
0 to 60 times? Grab a g-tech from someone and see.
More than likely, you're pushing 200 to 210hp to the rear wheels. Which means about 230 to 240hp at the crank. That is of course, if the rest of your car is running properly.
0 to 60 times? Grab a g-tech from someone and see.
#4
Yea, I can't wait to have the rear subframe bushings and the pass CV axle replaced on my turbo. I'm very interested how my setup does on the dyno. All I know is that it feels awesome, when it has traction.
#6
Someone once described it to me this way....
Horsepower is how hard you'll hit the wall.
Torque is how far you'll move it.
Or was it the other way around????
High TQ numbers are only good if they're backed up with high HP numbers.
It's funny. Drive a turbo diesel truck. They generally don't rev as high, so their HP numbers are much lower than their TQ numbers. They get off the line rather slowly, but you can add hundreds of lbs of crap in the bed and you wouldn't even notice it.
Horsepower is how hard you'll hit the wall.
Torque is how far you'll move it.
Or was it the other way around????
High TQ numbers are only good if they're backed up with high HP numbers.
It's funny. Drive a turbo diesel truck. They generally don't rev as high, so their HP numbers are much lower than their TQ numbers. They get off the line rather slowly, but you can add hundreds of lbs of crap in the bed and you wouldn't even notice it.
#7
Originally Posted by Comrade_Charlie
I just put a manual boost controller on my 85 300zxT. I set it and got it at perfect 10psi on first try, it runs good! Any way how much HP would yall guess is getting to the wheels now? 210? Engine is probaly making 260 but thats not to the ground. Also any one know what the 0-60mph time is for stock except 10psi on T3? I want to dyno my car after I remove cat off of my exhaust
#8
sry i never saw that any one replied to this post. I have a different exhaust but not sure if it is better than stock one, it doesnt have mandrel bends so it suffocates it, and it has a magnaflow exhaust... and I have a cool air intake. my car can spin good after it shifts to 2nd . its fun, no LSD tho... I let my friend try to race a stock 240sx in my car. the 240 started before my friend. then my friend went and caught up to him side by side in 1st gear, then he shifted too fast and F(%% up on getting it into 2nd so he lost... but it would have won if I was driving... just didnt feel like racing it...
#9
I would say your right around 200 with that should be pretty close. Do you have an air/fuel gauge in there. If not why. That is one of your most important gauges you can have. Get one throw it in there and see what your running. I was able to run 13 psi and I was still rich through all rpms in every gear. The only problem was my clutch couldn't take it. lol
#10
I dont know a lot about cars just what I have read... better to run rich than lean right . my clutch is crapping out though... 240,000 K miles I wonder how many times it has been replaced... my cousin said it feels like an aftermarket one... Ill ask him about a air/fuel gauge...
#11
always better rich than too lean. And the clutchs can go for awhile. My last 300 the guy said he never changed the clutch and he wasn't sure if the person before him did. The car had over 120k miles on it. If you treat it right it will last. He also said he hardly ever used it, so that could help
#12
A lot of people say the common A/F gauge is worthless. They almost always say to get a EGT or wideband A/F (or is it narrow band A/F?).
The best gauge is your ears. Listen for pinging. If it starts pinging, back off immediately.
The best gauge is your ears. Listen for pinging. If it starts pinging, back off immediately.
#13
The standard A/F gauges work off of the stock (narrow band) O2 sensor. They should not be used for anything but an "Oh-****" meter. They are not accurate enough, in the very extreme rich/lean ranges. A wideband A/F setup is 100 times more accurate, compaired to a narrowband setup, due to the linear output of them. EGT's can also be used, with great results, to tell you not only if you're running lean. But if used with a wideband A/F gauge, it can tell you if your ignition/mechanical timing is off.
#14
Forbasic tuning all you really need is the narrow band though. Yea everyone would love to have a wide band 02 but sometimes they are just way to expensive. I have had great results with mine so far. For what he is doing I see no problem with just running your regurlar o2 sensor. Untill he starts doing more tunning and turning up the boost more that will be fine.
#16
ok tune wasn't the right wording then. Its good to know if you have gone to lean. Thats about it. Works fine for me actully helped my dignose some problems. But like z-bum said best thing to do is just listen. Know your car and how it responds.
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