No power to anything
05-26-2014, 10:54 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 23
No power to anything
Hi guys,
So I just got a 1984 300ZX Turbo from my Uncle for free. It's sat awhile and has it's problems, I have some questions because I'm new to these kind of car.
1. I have no power to anything. The battery is good, and I just replaced the cable clamps and cleaned the grounds. I checked for power and the fusible links and didn't get anything. Which means the problem is between the battery to starter cable or the starter to fusible link box right? Anything special to check first and foremost?
2. I'm going to replace the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump, is there anything else I should replace while I'm at it? And is it pretty hard to replace the timing belt?
3. My Uncle had said that the turbo compressor is bad, so what does that actually mean? (Never had a turbo car before) Do they go out often? Are they easy to replace? What are the signs of a bad turbo compressor?
So I just got a 1984 300ZX Turbo from my Uncle for free. It's sat awhile and has it's problems, I have some questions because I'm new to these kind of car.
1. I have no power to anything. The battery is good, and I just replaced the cable clamps and cleaned the grounds. I checked for power and the fusible links and didn't get anything. Which means the problem is between the battery to starter cable or the starter to fusible link box right? Anything special to check first and foremost?
2. I'm going to replace the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump, is there anything else I should replace while I'm at it? And is it pretty hard to replace the timing belt?
3. My Uncle had said that the turbo compressor is bad, so what does that actually mean? (Never had a turbo car before) Do they go out often? Are they easy to replace? What are the signs of a bad turbo compressor?
05-27-2014, 04:30 AM
#2
No Power
Mo power = good fusible links, get a fsm and check out the wiring section and trouble shooting. here is a free download
XenonZ31 Reference
XenonZ31 Reference
05-27-2014, 01:53 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,103
Welcome to ZDriver! 
Congrats on your new Z31, too
You have your FSM and can get going on bringing the car up to where you want it.
If your turbo is gone, you won't feel the turbo boost when you accelerate fast. Not too critical. Easy enough to replace or upgrade when you get to it. Better solve your electrical issues first. Rogerz has a good list of other things he recommends for newbies. Maybe he will post them here - or you can look through his posts and find his list. Check it out in his reply to HOLCOMB209 thread below.
Timing belt, etc are good ideas and should be done. Try to do it yourself and you can save some bucks. Easy enough but time consuming. Make sure you do it right tho... OEM parts still available.
Get to know your Z better and post some pics for us when you have them. She's a keeper and will reward you for all the good work you put into her!
Thanks and welcome.
Congrats on your new Z31, tooYou have your FSM and can get going on bringing the car up to where you want it.
If your turbo is gone, you won't feel the turbo boost when you accelerate fast. Not too critical. Easy enough to replace or upgrade when you get to it. Better solve your electrical issues first. Rogerz has a good list of other things he recommends for newbies. Maybe he will post them here - or you can look through his posts and find his list. Check it out in his reply to HOLCOMB209 thread below.
Timing belt, etc are good ideas and should be done. Try to do it yourself and you can save some bucks. Easy enough but time consuming. Make sure you do it right tho... OEM parts still available.
Get to know your Z better and post some pics for us when you have them. She's a keeper and will reward you for all the good work you put into her!
Thanks and welcome.
Last edited by zxguy1986; 05-27-2014 at 02:23 PM.
05-27-2014, 06:52 PM
#4
Grumpy & Helpful
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mill Creek WA
Posts: 1,415
hope you are a good experienced wrench because Unc didn't do you any favors giving you that car. lots of work and parts needed. you need to do more than just get it running. if you replaced the "cable clamps" with those clamp on one size fit alls you just gave your self a headache waiting to happen. if someone hasn't butchered the original cables take them to a REAL battery shop not KMart. have them crimp on real lead sealed terminals. You need tires and suspension work. No boost gage? put one in it will tell you if the turbo is working or not. throw out the compass and G meter they are useless as having two thumbs. that is where I put my boost gage and fuel pressure gage. two very useful instruments. since zxguy has touted my advice here goes:
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
If you are doing a turbo car shocks (electro adjust I think may be only on the turbos) then you need the adapter plates to fit modern shocks to the car. Easiest way is find an n/a at the junkyard and take the mounting plates. They may be available thru NAPA (listed) but I had the n/a plates.
How do you know the battery is good? Looks nice? testing is the only method. HAD A BRand new battery in my 83. weird things happened. kept saying new battery can't be the issue to my self (self you are a dummy). Finally after exhausting all other known remedies took it to the shop and sure enough marginal battery. Once replaced all problems went away
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
If you are doing a turbo car shocks (electro adjust I think may be only on the turbos) then you need the adapter plates to fit modern shocks to the car. Easiest way is find an n/a at the junkyard and take the mounting plates. They may be available thru NAPA (listed) but I had the n/a plates.
How do you know the battery is good? Looks nice? testing is the only method. HAD A BRand new battery in my 83. weird things happened. kept saying new battery can't be the issue to my self (self you are a dummy). Finally after exhausting all other known remedies took it to the shop and sure enough marginal battery. Once replaced all problems went away
Last edited by rogerz; 05-27-2014 at 06:56 PM.
05-27-2014, 08:29 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 23
hope you are a good experienced wrench because Unc didn't do you any favors giving you that car. lots of work and parts needed. you need to do more than just get it running. if you replaced the "cable clamps" with those clamp on one size fit alls you just gave your self a headache waiting to happen. if someone hasn't butchered the original cables take them to a REAL battery shop not KMart. have them crimp on real lead sealed terminals. You need tires and suspension work. No boost gage? put one in it will tell you if the turbo is working or not. throw out the compass and G meter they are useless as having two thumbs. that is where I put my boost gage and fuel pressure gage. two very useful instruments. since zxguy has touted my advice here goes:
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
If you are doing a turbo car shocks (electro adjust I think may be only on the turbos) then you need the adapter plates to fit modern shocks to the car. Easiest way is find an n/a at the junkyard and take the mounting plates. They may be available thru NAPA (listed) but I had the n/a plates.
How do you know the battery is good? Looks nice? testing is the only method. HAD A BRand new battery in my 83. weird things happened. kept saying new battery can't be the issue to my self (self you are a dummy). Finally after exhausting all other known remedies took it to the shop and sure enough marginal battery. Once replaced all problems went away
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
If you are doing a turbo car shocks (electro adjust I think may be only on the turbos) then you need the adapter plates to fit modern shocks to the car. Easiest way is find an n/a at the junkyard and take the mounting plates. They may be available thru NAPA (listed) but I had the n/a plates.
How do you know the battery is good? Looks nice? testing is the only method. HAD A BRand new battery in my 83. weird things happened. kept saying new battery can't be the issue to my self (self you are a dummy). Finally after exhausting all other known remedies took it to the shop and sure enough marginal battery. Once replaced all problems went away
1. The battery is good, I have a load tester, it tests good and has a good charge.
2. I like to think that I'm decent with a wrench, I rebuild a lot of motorcycles and my other car is a Jeep Cherokee which we all know needs a lot of work all the time.
3. I'm going to replace the cables with new ones and sealed lead clamps.
4. I'm in no rush to finish this project, I've always been in love with this car and I'm planning on taking my time and doing it right so I have no worries when I finally get it on the road.
5. Is it easy to replace the T3 turbocharger?
6. I really appreciate all the help guys.
05-27-2014, 08:50 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 203
First get a FSM download it here
XenonZ31 Reference
It's best not to just guess what's wrong. Better to trouble shoot each problem one at a time. Cars (esp Z cars) don't like to sit for yrs without being used. Chances are most all the problems just require cleaning bad connections. Find those bad connections by reviewing the prints in the FSM.
Note most problems will not be related to each other at all. The lack of no dash powering up might have nothing at all to do with it not cranking.
I have been working on these cars for 30 yrs and have owned 10+ of them. Heck I have 3 of them now. Each one has had different electrical issues over the yrs. Take your time and trouble shoot them.
Also as mentioned before don't just assume the turbo is bad. Once you get it to run you will know right away. The car should run like normal but with lack of power ie boost when you punch it. If the car runs like sh*t before you even get out of the drive you won't know for sure. it could be a bad mass air flow meter (MAF) or a number of other sensors.
Changing the turbo in my opinion is a major pain with the engine in the car. if you are going to replace the timing belt and other parts just pull the engine and do it all together. I did a write up on a N/A to turbo conversion we did a few yrs ago. You might look for it in my profile. We have some pics there of the engine out of the car.
How long did this car sit? How old is the gas? Was the car stored inside or outside with flat tires half buried on the mud? The turbo won't like it if it was buired in the mud for 10 yrs.
Can we see some pics of it inside and out. Pics will get people here more excited.
Once you get this car on the road be ready to get asked about it a lot. These are classic cars and people like them.
XenonZ31 Reference
It's best not to just guess what's wrong. Better to trouble shoot each problem one at a time. Cars (esp Z cars) don't like to sit for yrs without being used. Chances are most all the problems just require cleaning bad connections. Find those bad connections by reviewing the prints in the FSM.
Note most problems will not be related to each other at all. The lack of no dash powering up might have nothing at all to do with it not cranking.
I have been working on these cars for 30 yrs and have owned 10+ of them. Heck I have 3 of them now. Each one has had different electrical issues over the yrs. Take your time and trouble shoot them.
Also as mentioned before don't just assume the turbo is bad. Once you get it to run you will know right away. The car should run like normal but with lack of power ie boost when you punch it. If the car runs like sh*t before you even get out of the drive you won't know for sure. it could be a bad mass air flow meter (MAF) or a number of other sensors.
Changing the turbo in my opinion is a major pain with the engine in the car. if you are going to replace the timing belt and other parts just pull the engine and do it all together. I did a write up on a N/A to turbo conversion we did a few yrs ago. You might look for it in my profile. We have some pics there of the engine out of the car.
How long did this car sit? How old is the gas? Was the car stored inside or outside with flat tires half buried on the mud? The turbo won't like it if it was buired in the mud for 10 yrs.
Can we see some pics of it inside and out. Pics will get people here more excited.
Once you get this car on the road be ready to get asked about it a lot. These are classic cars and people like them.
05-27-2014, 09:06 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 23
First get a FSM download it here
XenonZ31 Reference
It's best not to just guess what's wrong. Better to trouble shoot each problem one at a time. Cars (esp Z cars) don't like to sit for yrs without being used. Chances are most all the problems just require cleaning bad connections. Find those bad connections by reviewing the prints in the FSM.
Note most problems will not be related to each other at all. The lack of no dash powering up might have nothing at all to do with it not cranking.
I have been working on these cars for 30 yrs and have owned 10+ of them. Heck I have 3 of them now. Each one has had different electrical issues over the yrs. Take your time and trouble shoot them.
Also as mentioned before don't just assume the turbo is bad. Once you get it to run you will know right away. The car should run like normal but with lack of power ie boost when you punch it. If the car runs like sh*t before you even get out of the drive you won't know for sure. it could be a bad mass air flow meter (MAF) or a number of other sensors.
Changing the turbo in my opinion is a major pain with the engine in the car. if you are going to replace the timing belt and other parts just pull the engine and do it all together. I did a write up on a N/A to turbo conversion we did a few yrs ago. You might look for it in my profile. We have some pics there of the engine out of the car.
How long did this car sit? How old is the gas? Was the car stored inside or outside with flat tires half buried on the mud? The turbo won't like it if it was buired in the mud for 10 yrs.
Can we see some pics of it inside and out. Pics will get people here more excited.
Once you get this car on the road be ready to get asked about it a lot. These are classic cars and people like them.
XenonZ31 Reference
It's best not to just guess what's wrong. Better to trouble shoot each problem one at a time. Cars (esp Z cars) don't like to sit for yrs without being used. Chances are most all the problems just require cleaning bad connections. Find those bad connections by reviewing the prints in the FSM.
Note most problems will not be related to each other at all. The lack of no dash powering up might have nothing at all to do with it not cranking.
I have been working on these cars for 30 yrs and have owned 10+ of them. Heck I have 3 of them now. Each one has had different electrical issues over the yrs. Take your time and trouble shoot them.
Also as mentioned before don't just assume the turbo is bad. Once you get it to run you will know right away. The car should run like normal but with lack of power ie boost when you punch it. If the car runs like sh*t before you even get out of the drive you won't know for sure. it could be a bad mass air flow meter (MAF) or a number of other sensors.
Changing the turbo in my opinion is a major pain with the engine in the car. if you are going to replace the timing belt and other parts just pull the engine and do it all together. I did a write up on a N/A to turbo conversion we did a few yrs ago. You might look for it in my profile. We have some pics there of the engine out of the car.
How long did this car sit? How old is the gas? Was the car stored inside or outside with flat tires half buried on the mud? The turbo won't like it if it was buired in the mud for 10 yrs.
Can we see some pics of it inside and out. Pics will get people here more excited.
Once you get this car on the road be ready to get asked about it a lot. These are classic cars and people like them.
Don't have any pictures of the inside right now, but it's pretty rough, the seats are dried out and the dash leather has split in a few places. I'm not too worried about it because I like doing interior work. My least favorite part of the car is that it's an automatic, I hate automatics with a fiery burning passion
05-27-2014, 09:25 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 23
First get a FSM download it here
XenonZ31 Reference
It's best not to just guess what's wrong. Better to trouble shoot each problem one at a time. Cars (esp Z cars) don't like to sit for yrs without being used. Chances are most all the problems just require cleaning bad connections. Find those bad connections by reviewing the prints in the FSM.
Note most problems will not be related to each other at all. The lack of no dash powering up might have nothing at all to do with it not cranking.
I have been working on these cars for 30 yrs and have owned 10+ of them. Heck I have 3 of them now. Each one has had different electrical issues over the yrs. Take your time and trouble shoot them.
Also as mentioned before don't just assume the turbo is bad. Once you get it to run you will know right away. The car should run like normal but with lack of power ie boost when you punch it. If the car runs like sh*t before you even get out of the drive you won't know for sure. it could be a bad mass air flow meter (MAF) or a number of other sensors.
Changing the turbo in my opinion is a major pain with the engine in the car. if you are going to replace the timing belt and other parts just pull the engine and do it all together. I did a write up on a N/A to turbo conversion we did a few yrs ago. You might look for it in my profile. We have some pics there of the engine out of the car.
How long did this car sit? How old is the gas? Was the car stored inside or outside with flat tires half buried on the mud? The turbo won't like it if it was buired in the mud for 10 yrs.
Can we see some pics of it inside and out. Pics will get people here more excited.
Once you get this car on the road be ready to get asked about it a lot. These are classic cars and people like them.
XenonZ31 Reference
It's best not to just guess what's wrong. Better to trouble shoot each problem one at a time. Cars (esp Z cars) don't like to sit for yrs without being used. Chances are most all the problems just require cleaning bad connections. Find those bad connections by reviewing the prints in the FSM.
Note most problems will not be related to each other at all. The lack of no dash powering up might have nothing at all to do with it not cranking.
I have been working on these cars for 30 yrs and have owned 10+ of them. Heck I have 3 of them now. Each one has had different electrical issues over the yrs. Take your time and trouble shoot them.
Also as mentioned before don't just assume the turbo is bad. Once you get it to run you will know right away. The car should run like normal but with lack of power ie boost when you punch it. If the car runs like sh*t before you even get out of the drive you won't know for sure. it could be a bad mass air flow meter (MAF) or a number of other sensors.
Changing the turbo in my opinion is a major pain with the engine in the car. if you are going to replace the timing belt and other parts just pull the engine and do it all together. I did a write up on a N/A to turbo conversion we did a few yrs ago. You might look for it in my profile. We have some pics there of the engine out of the car.
How long did this car sit? How old is the gas? Was the car stored inside or outside with flat tires half buried on the mud? The turbo won't like it if it was buired in the mud for 10 yrs.
Can we see some pics of it inside and out. Pics will get people here more excited.
Once you get this car on the road be ready to get asked about it a lot. These are classic cars and people like them.
Don't have any pictures of the inside right now, but it's pretty rough, the seats are dried out and the dash leather has split in a few places. I'm not too worried about it because I like doing interior work. My least favorite part of the car is that it's an automatic, I hate automatics with a fiery burning passion
05-27-2014, 09:44 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 23
Mo power = good fusible links, get a fsm and check out the wiring section and trouble shooting. here is a free download
XenonZ31 Reference
XenonZ31 Reference
05-28-2014, 06:33 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 23
Alright lets try this again, I keep trying to post but nothing shows up.
Here's an outside pic:
I'll get some inside pics later.
Update: So I got power to the fusible links and now I have power to a certain extent inside the cab, my headlights turn on, and my drivers side window works, and my mirrors work but nothing else inside the cab seems to have power, it doesn't look like any power is going to the power supply for the dash, and it doesn't crank through the ignition.
Here's an outside pic:
I'll get some inside pics later.
Update: So I got power to the fusible links and now I have power to a certain extent inside the cab, my headlights turn on, and my drivers side window works, and my mirrors work but nothing else inside the cab seems to have power, it doesn't look like any power is going to the power supply for the dash, and it doesn't crank through the ignition.
05-28-2014, 10:06 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 23
Well, I figured out my problem. My battery fusible link is blown... and because of some recent threads, we all know what caused that(Battery cables vice versa.) By far the stupidest thing I've done in awhile. Now the only thing that doesn't work is the radio, is there a fuse behind the radio? Already checked the one in the main fuse block. Now that I have power, new little quirks are arising. For some reason my brake/tailights are always on. And the starter makes this weird sound, it might be shot. On the bright side, my digital dash works good and as far as I can tell, my climate control actually works. One step at a time.
Edit: I don't know why but it'll only let me post quick replies. Predator, I'm actually just north of you in Moscow. I'll try and take some pictures of it tomorrow, the body is in decent condition but the interior is pretty dried out.
Edit: I don't know why but it'll only let me post quick replies. Predator, I'm actually just north of you in Moscow. I'll try and take some pictures of it tomorrow, the body is in decent condition but the interior is pretty dried out.
Last edited by ThatDude114; 05-28-2014 at 10:09 PM.
Well done...
05-29-2014, 08:46 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,103
Well, radio fuse is good. Head unit either does not like its connections (speaker hookups, etc.) or its inputs, if any. (Could have slipped into SECURE mode. Power up unit and look for tiny hole in face of unit and press paper clip end into it, hold for 10 seconds... look for revival..) I think you have good evidence that someone before you has screwed around with your radio/tape/wiring/speakers, etc. It's a big or small mess that you get to figure out as the current owner who needs to hear his sounds from the head unit.
FSM wiring diagrams can be some help if you are good with them. These Zs needed an aftermarket ground-correction gadget that switched the grounding from OEM factory to a new standard in order to accept and run newer head units ...around 1990? That stuff screwed stuff up for subsequent Z buyers - they can never tell where the original and re-wiring was left off. Feel free to locate the original speaker wires - or run new ones from the head unit you end up with...
If you can find the original Z harness plug/connector for the original head unit in there, sellers like Crutchfield can give/sell you a direct plug-in harness to fit that and hook directly to whatever head unit you buy from them - or already have... Head units are so cheap now that I would not waste my time trying to get the mystery one in the dash to work when I can replace it cheap with a better one - and save a sh*tload of labor.
Work this input here with the end sound system you are looking for. Be creative! Explore! Imagine the potential.
FSM wiring diagrams can be some help if you are good with them. These Zs needed an aftermarket ground-correction gadget that switched the grounding from OEM factory to a new standard in order to accept and run newer head units ...around 1990? That stuff screwed stuff up for subsequent Z buyers - they can never tell where the original and re-wiring was left off. Feel free to locate the original speaker wires - or run new ones from the head unit you end up with...
If you can find the original Z harness plug/connector for the original head unit in there, sellers like Crutchfield can give/sell you a direct plug-in harness to fit that and hook directly to whatever head unit you buy from them - or already have... Head units are so cheap now that I would not waste my time trying to get the mystery one in the dash to work when I can replace it cheap with a better one - and save a sh*tload of labor.
Work this input here with the end sound system you are looking for. Be creative! Explore! Imagine the potential.
Last edited by zxguy1986; 05-29-2014 at 09:22 PM.
05-29-2014, 08:57 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 23
Its actually the stock radio. I guess I'll replace it since I have like 6 nice Pioneer stereos just sitting around, and I've already got 2 sets of speakers ready to go in, I'll just need that wiring harness and the faceplate for a single din. I was reading about the common ground system, I have a GLL(Amp connected to the original head unit) which means that my system doesn't use a common ground system, so I should be able to just hook everything like a normal car correct?
05-29-2014, 09:31 PM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,103
You have the stock '84 radio/tape? Call the Smithsonian. They want it! You made history.
You're lucky, too. Just contact a live person at Crutchfield and ask him/her what you need to hook up one of your fave head units to an original '84 Z power feed and speaker harness. They make it easy. If they can't access your unit, buy a new one (for your iPod, dude). Buy some new speakers while you're there. Yours are blasted and hatching spiders as we speak.
You're lucky, too. Just contact a live person at Crutchfield and ask him/her what you need to hook up one of your fave head units to an original '84 Z power feed and speaker harness. They make it easy. If they can't access your unit, buy a new one (for your iPod, dude). Buy some new speakers while you're there. Yours are blasted and hatching spiders as we speak.
06-01-2014, 08:14 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 203
You have the stock '84 radio/tape? Call the Smithsonian. They want it! You made history.
You're lucky, too. Just contact a live person at Crutchfield and ask him/her what you need to hook up one of your fave head units to an original '84 Z power feed and speaker harness. They make it easy. If they can't access your unit, buy a new one (for your iPod, dude). Buy some new speakers while you're there. Yours are blasted and hatching spiders as we speak.
You're lucky, too. Just contact a live person at Crutchfield and ask him/her what you need to hook up one of your fave head units to an original '84 Z power feed and speaker harness. They make it easy. If they can't access your unit, buy a new one (for your iPod, dude). Buy some new speakers while you're there. Yours are blasted and hatching spiders as we speak.
Hey I have a 1983 280zx with a 100% working OEM radio. Also the one in our 1987 300zx works too. There's nothing like keeping it all original.
06-01-2014, 09:00 PM
#20
Show room stock
For restoration car shows only, the stock stereo is far inferior to what is available today. I did a Blaupunkt / Polk install in my 84 and it sounded incredible, copied a design I saw on ebay for a z31 sub box that tucks in the area on the drivers side behind the shock tower.
06-01-2014, 10:03 PM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,103
I agree. Nothing aftermarket looks right in that space. My OEM radio/tape unit was beautiful but never worked right. The OEM tape head was a bit off center from day one and never sounded right... took me 8 years to switch it out. My new Pioneer head unit blew me away with CD, better reception, more power, etc., but just looked weird there. Not much you can do. Somebody should have made a fake OEM face plate to hide a new head unit. 
Purists unite! (I'm on my fourth head unit now. iPod, remote, driving outboard amp, extra speakers. We outgrow stuff...
) Nothing looks right there but the OEM turkey tape deck...
Purists unite! (I'm on my fourth head unit now. iPod, remote, driving outboard amp, extra speakers. We outgrow stuff...) Nothing looks right there but the OEM turkey tape deck...
Last edited by zxguy1986; 06-01-2014 at 10:09 PM.
06-02-2014, 05:48 PM
#22
easy peasy
Your idea would be fairly easy really, I would make a snap in cover that had the old face plate and *****, and maybe even a connection to light things up. Use it for anti-theft, set it aside when you are driving her. Ill do a simple one and post some pics, I have a perfectly good working one that came out of my 84, if someone seriously needed a stock unit PM me b4 I kill it in the next week or so.
06-02-2014, 06:14 PM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,103
I wouldn't kill it yet. There are guys looking for the OEM unit. I think I get your idea. My current head unit has a problem fitting in because of all the wiring back there - plus the ground conversion gadget. Takes some time but it does slide all the way in. Anyway, there isn't much depth between the console face and the firewall to fit newer head units. Measure it and you'll see what I mean. Bet it's less than 8 or 9 inches. SO with your removable face, the head unit would have even less depth to fit into. I think we're stuck with ugly aftermarket head units. 
But hold on to that OEM unit !
It's a collectible now. If I can find mine, it's going on Ebay.
But hold on to that OEM unit !
It's a collectible now. If I can find mine, it's going on Ebay.
Last edited by zxguy1986; 06-02-2014 at 06:48 PM.
06-02-2014, 06:56 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 23
Hey guys, so I've been busy with the Z. I'm getting the interior tore out to clean up the inside.
It was pretty gross on the inside, and not very clean as you can tell. I'm debating between ditching the carpet, or tearing it out and deep cleaning it. Any suggestions?
How do I remove the exterior trim pieces to repaint them? Clips? Screws? Is there a specific paint I should use? Repaint on the car or take them off?
Along with those trim pieces, the one around rear window and the quarter window also need to be repainted.
In some places my paint is either chipping or fading. Should this warrant a full repaint? Just repaint the problem areas? I haven't hit it with any Meguiars Ultimate Compound yet so I'm not sure how well it'll clean up.
How would I go about repainting the rear spoiler? Specific type of paint to use?
It was pretty gross on the inside, and not very clean as you can tell. I'm debating between ditching the carpet, or tearing it out and deep cleaning it. Any suggestions?
How do I remove the exterior trim pieces to repaint them? Clips? Screws? Is there a specific paint I should use? Repaint on the car or take them off?
Along with those trim pieces, the one around rear window and the quarter window also need to be repainted.
In some places my paint is either chipping or fading. Should this warrant a full repaint? Just repaint the problem areas? I haven't hit it with any Meguiars Ultimate Compound yet so I'm not sure how well it'll clean up.
How would I go about repainting the rear spoiler? Specific type of paint to use?
06-02-2014, 07:04 PM
#25
Sweet, I lived in the Palouse for 4 years, Wazzu, but didn't grad. Campus was all hills and killer on clutches and brakes. had many a drunken night in the Bars in Moscow, at the time the drinking age was 19 in Idaho and 21 in Washington, so trips over the border were in order.
