'87 Z31 Rear Brake Pad Replacement
#1
'87 Z31 Rear Brake Pad Replacement
Did this job a couple of weeks ago, luckily had a set of "Deluxe Plus ORGANIC pads" pbr D 341 D - Made In Australia that fit perfectly.
Used a Haynes Manual as a guide, a NISS factory service manual was available.
Need to relax the parking brake cables and disconnect from calipers by whatever means possible.
Basically ignored the "remove bottom pin only" instructions for the calipers, take BOTH pin bolts out and lay the caliper on top of the CVJ / axle control arms, to expose the pad / clip assembly.
Remove clips with needle nose pliers and the pads fall out. Also ignored the instructions to "turn the piston until the caliper fits over the new pads"..using again, needle nose pliers...turn the piston inward until it is seated back within the cylinder to avoid a trial and error operation fitting it over the new pads..worked perfectly, the caliper went snugly over on the first try.
Used the same brake pad hardware even though both manuals insist on replacing the shims which is an extra expense, applied grease to the shims to hold them in place when fitting them onto the rotor, ALSO apply a little silicon based grease to the contact points between the caliper and it's support.
So far ZERO noise or any sort of problem whatsoever, even after a bit of "hard" braking in traffic....
10 years ago this was a $220.00 shop expense plus hardware..now the cost was nothing other than time and spray brake cleaner.
Have pics, will post later and edit / add a bit more text...hope this helps.
Used a Haynes Manual as a guide, a NISS factory service manual was available.
Need to relax the parking brake cables and disconnect from calipers by whatever means possible.
Basically ignored the "remove bottom pin only" instructions for the calipers, take BOTH pin bolts out and lay the caliper on top of the CVJ / axle control arms, to expose the pad / clip assembly.
Remove clips with needle nose pliers and the pads fall out. Also ignored the instructions to "turn the piston until the caliper fits over the new pads"..using again, needle nose pliers...turn the piston inward until it is seated back within the cylinder to avoid a trial and error operation fitting it over the new pads..worked perfectly, the caliper went snugly over on the first try.
Used the same brake pad hardware even though both manuals insist on replacing the shims which is an extra expense, applied grease to the shims to hold them in place when fitting them onto the rotor, ALSO apply a little silicon based grease to the contact points between the caliper and it's support.
So far ZERO noise or any sort of problem whatsoever, even after a bit of "hard" braking in traffic....
10 years ago this was a $220.00 shop expense plus hardware..now the cost was nothing other than time and spray brake cleaner.
Have pics, will post later and edit / add a bit more text...hope this helps.
Last edited by Virtuoso; 10-08-2015 at 12:01 PM.
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Al Dukes
300ZX (Z31) Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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09-15-2003 01:12 PM
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