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50th AE Z Project

Old 03-31-2014, 06:37 PM
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50th AE Z Project

Alright, so I am now the proud owner of a 1984 Nissan 300ZX 50th! I bought this as a project car for school and for a hobby, but as of now my bank is empty. (No, seriously, I have like $5 to my name.) So I won't be starting any work until September, but I figured I'd just list some of the projects I have planned for this thing! (Note, while I have done some research, some projects are things I've thought of but haven't looked into, or just not fully researched. This is purely just a brainstorm/list.)

1. VG33E(T) swap
-As AZ-ZBUM has said, there is no replacement for displacement. There are many articles discussing this topic, and from them the general conclusion is that it's well worth it, and relatively easy. I am required to rebuild an engine for school at some point, so I figured since I'd be taken the engine out of my Z, I might as well make it well worthwhile. So I'll be doing a complete swap. I plan on doing the following:
A) Hone + Bore the cylinders to correct and install new properly sized pistons. Hey, I need to do it for a grade, so why not?
B) Grind the camshafts. While there is little to any difference between the cams on the VG30 and the VG33, I have read that you can get a bit more aggressive of a lift and somewhat more tuned timing with a ground cam.
C) Modify the intake and exhaust manifolds. This obviously helps the engine breathe. I've read that the Pathfinder upper intake plenum in an easy mod to the VG30ET, so given that VG33 will most likely be out of a Pathfinder, I might already have that cut out for me! As for the exhaust, I might outsource the exhaust manifold to a machine shop to mill it out, or possibly keep the stock for awhile until I feel confident enough with welding to create a custom manifold.
D) I'll probably keep the VG33 crank, I may be wrong, but I believe it provides a larger compression ratio.
E) Since I plan on increasing the boost I'll need to get better fuel injectors. I've heard the ones out of the 240SX are pretty good on the VG's with higher boost, but I want to see what other options there are.
F) Install lightweight Flywheel.

2. Turbo/supporting mods
-Speaking of Turbo's and boost... Since this will be a turbocharged engine, there are some things I really should do if I expect to get any power from this set up. Increasing the boost is a must, increasing the breathe rate of the engine is a must for any boost pressure beyond stock.
A) As mentioned, I plan to run higher than stock boost, so in order to do that, I need a boost controller. I want to go with an electronic controller for a few reasons; it's more precise, it's easier to tune, it allows more tuning, and it looks cool when it's well integrated with the interior dash.
B) While I'll probably be sticking with the stock T3 for awhile, I would like to eventually upgrade to a T3/T4 hybrid or altogether upgrade to a better turbo. The T3's are decent turbo's, but they are outdated and aren't as efficient as many of the more modern turbo systems.
C) When boost is increased, it is inevitable to have higher temps for the intake. So to state the obvious, an intercooler is necessary. Since I'm not able to find much for Z31 aftermarket intercoolers, it appears I'll have to get crafty.
D) My Z has no exhaust from the turbo downpipe-back. Oddly this is what caught my interest with the craigslist post. 3" mandrel bent seems to be the most popular/ideal system, and I've found some stainless sets from Certified Muffler in the price range of $7-800. I feel like I could do cheaper and still get good quality, but if not I'm willing to pay. Luckily my car is exempt from NYS emissions testing, so I can get away without a catalytic.

3. Suspension overhaul
- The car is 30 years old, and I'm pretty sure it's sitting on stock shocks/struts and coils. I know for a fact that they are shot, so I'll need to replace them. Besides, when the power is being increased, I'd like to be able to avoid losing control.
A) New everything. I've been looking around, and from what I could find that didn't require much of any fabrication, Tokico Illumina's and coil springs are my best bang for buck. I want something adjustable and quality. Another option, albeit expensive, are the Stance coilovers. Apparently they are relatively easy to fab the proper mountings for the Z31, and God are they sexy! But they also cost $1200! Maybe down the road...
B) Polyurethane bushings. They stiffen the ride and the frame and allow for better cornering. Though they supposedly reduce some ride quality, I think I can suffer for it.
C) Various other upgrades.

4. Brakes!
- Definitely the most important. I'd really love to avoid hitting a bus full of dying orphaned children on their way to the adoption center...
A) Apparently the brake system from the Z32 can be retrofit to the Z31 so long as you swap the Z32 hubs with them. From there I'm wondering what types of aftermarket brake rotors and calipers are available for the Z32 that I can use, if not for safety at least looks?

5. Manual Trans rebuild
- Same deal as with the engine, I have to do it so may as well upgrade some things.
A) New AEM clutch
B) New wear-ables
C) Short shifter

Well, that's all I've thought about so far. I can almost guarantee you I'm wrong about at least one thing I've said, this is just where I'm at now. I've posted this mostly to see interest and to have a written down copy of what's been going through my head. I'm not going to worry about the interior or body work right now, but the obvious goes for that; stereo, seats, rust repair, cleaning, paint.
Thanks for reading, sorry for making it long, and if I'm wrong about something, feel free to ream me out! Any advice/criticism or ideas are welcome!

Last edited by 50SEVEN; 03-31-2014 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:06 AM
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Welcome to the site.

You should post some pics of this ride!

"Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion."

Sounds like an ambitious plan, definitely interested in reading about your rebuild. I'm thinking about crafting some headers at some point too. Some of these are interesting, i was inspired.
TURBO FAQ: Advanced modifications - Exhaust manifolds and headers
I've learned so much since I started researching.
I got some more links for ya.
Factory Service Manual
XenonZ31 Reference
Parts:
Motorsport! Classic Z/ZX Parts Home - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts
Welcome to the Acadiana Sports Car Orphanage! | Acadiana Sports Car Orphanage - Official Store
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Old 04-01-2014, 04:14 AM
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Haha... The battery is crap, it's getting replaced. As for pictures, I posted them in my last thread, they're kind of junk pics so I didn't think it was worth reposting them. Also, I've already read most of Xenon31 and my parts are mostly planned from MSA. I haven't started reading about manifolds and headers yet. I've kind of been skipping around on research. Glad to see your interested. I'll get more pics on Saturday.
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:29 AM
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Nice man, looking forward to seeing your progress. Our AE's should meet when they're both running haha
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:10 PM
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The car is finally in my garage! I'm thinking about keeping it there instead of storage, just need to clean it out so I can fit another car in there. It smells like it's running rich, so I need to figure that out. I know the timing is off a tad. Oh, big plus on the sale, it came with a second manual transmission! I have more pictures, but the computer I'm using now is giving me upload issues.!
Attached Thumbnails 50th AE Z Project-imag0113.jpg   50th AE Z Project-imag0119.jpg   50th AE Z Project-imag0118.jpg   50th AE Z Project-imag0114.jpg   50th AE Z Project-imag0129.jpg  

50th AE Z Project-imag0126.jpg   50th AE Z Project-imag0116.jpg  
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Old 04-07-2014, 04:35 PM
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Turbo

Did you figure out if it is a turbo or NA, it has the NA cover on it, been painted black, normally they are red, so its hard to tell from that picture.
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Old 04-07-2014, 04:54 PM
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plagiarism is supposed to be flattery BUT if you are going to just copy my posts as your own at least attribute the source

this note is for ch33z3x who obviously copied verbatim my advice on what to do.
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Old 04-07-2014, 04:59 PM
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you got what looks like might be a turbo hood but you don't have turbo lights nor engine. WHY do you think it it an AE?
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Old 04-07-2014, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rogerz
you got what looks like might be a turbo hood but you don't have turbo lights nor engine. WHY do you think it it an AE?
Because of the identification numbers under the VIN. It was the first thing I checked when I first went to look at it. According to az-zbum it's an AE if the line below the VIN contains an L5. The number is as follows: KHLZ31XTUGL5W. I have a picture, but it won't download properly from the email. I'll try to post it later.
I mean, I suppose someone could have tried to make a counterfeit AE, but considering the only things off, according to you, are the lights and the engine, you'd think if they'd go so far as to replace the VIN panel, they'd also fix the lights. Everything else is there? AS far as the engine, there could be a few things. I could be the Turbo engine was ruined so someone bought an N/A and did a turbo conversion, or maybe they took the turbo engine out and replaced it with a N/A. But again, that seems like more of a waste of time since they's be gaining nothing. Save for a Turbo engine for another car.
As far for looking to see if the turbo is there, it is. So I'm not sure. This is my first Z car, it's my first experience with a Z31, and I tried to do as much research about the car and the AE and their differences before I even went to look at it! Is the light difference really that major? I mean, does a different light arrangement automatically define the car? Isn't it possible they were changed by a PO for whatever reason?
Damnit, now I'm nervous!
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Old 04-07-2014, 06:30 PM
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Is there anyway, with out a doubt, prove whether it is or isn't a legitimate AE?
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Old 04-07-2014, 06:46 PM
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Just something I noticed. When I did a quick image search for "1984 Z31 50t Anniversary edition" I've seen several "50th AE's" with the same light style as mine, as well as a few with different ones. Even JBaker1121's has the same style lights as me. What are the odds of multiple registered AE's having a "wrong" light assembly?
EX 1: Name:  IMG_4586_zps25fb644f.jpg
Views: 88
Size:  865.5 KB

EX 2: Name:  IMG_20130115_101331_287_zps6b30c660.jpg
Views: 291
Size:  318.5 KB

EX 3: 1984 z31 50th anniversary edition - Google Search

There are more, so honestly I wonder how that same difference happens to exist on multiple "accepted" anniversary editions.
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Old 04-07-2014, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by rogerz
plagiarism is supposed to be flattery BUT if you are going to just copy my posts as your own at least attribute the source

this note is for ch33z3x who obviously copied verbatim my advice on what to do.
He did use quotes implying it wasn't his own. Besides, I've seen you post that and others quote you on many threads. Maybe he didn't know how to quote another thread?
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:08 PM
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Conflicting engine codes

K = T-tops
H = VG30e engine
L = Left hand drive
Blank line = 2 seater
Z31 = Model
X= GL-L Package
Blank = manual trans
T = Turbo
U = USA
GL5W = Anniversary

This is what it all means, as far as I can figure, strange that you have a turbo option on a VG3e

Last edited by PredatorZ; 04-07-2014 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by PredatorZ
K = T-tops
H = VG30e engine
L = Left hand drive
Blank line = 2 seater
Z31 = Model
X= GL-L Package
T = Turbo
U = USA
GL5W = Anniversary

This is what it all means, as far as I can figure, strange that you have a turbo option on a VG3e
Exactly what I thought when I first noticed the engine might not be a turbo. Then again, it is possible someone blew the original engine and replaced it with a turbo'd N/A. I know the N/A had a higher compression ratio, so it could be possible for someone to want that higher compression ratio with the turbo. Another possibility is that the cover plate was use to replace a broken stock one. I'm not sure how the fitment would vary for that part. Is there anything else that screams "not turbo" about this engine?

EDIT: Wait, if all 50AE were turbo, then why is it weird that there is a turbo option?

Last edited by 50SEVEN; 04-07-2014 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:22 PM
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matches fsm

seems the way the model variations , that you have a turbo Anniversary car, most likely someone took the turbo off, or something... you need to do some investigating and see if you still have the turbo engine minus the turbo, you could check the ECU and make sure it is the correct turbo version, will take some googling I'm sure
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:27 PM
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But if the Turbo is there...? Besides, why change out the cover plate if you were taking the turbo? Seems pointless, unless they wanted to be straight up honest that it no longer had a turbo? I mean, it makes sense that someone could have taken the turbo. Buy a turbo car cheap, take the turbo, sell the car, keep the turbo for far less than what you'd normally pay for it. Though it seems like to much of a hassle. If the turbo is gone, as much as that sucks, I still feel that $950 was a decent price to pay for everything. Besides, as listed above I want to do a VG33E(t) swap, so I'm not to worried about the block that's in there. Of course, if the turbo is missing, then I need to buy one, though I was thinking about doing that anyway. From what I've read, the T3 is a good Turbo, but a little outdated compared to some of today's turbos.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:34 PM
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Dumb things happen

You never know, the PO might have run it as a sleeper, show his motor, the unaware prospect thinks its an NA and places a big bet... use you imagination...
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:37 PM
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Possible. I know the kid I bought it off didn't race it. I went to school with him, he only had the car for about a year. Never registered it since it wasn't road worthy. (Seriously, the suspension is shot in the back...) But I suppose the owner before him could have been doing something crazy

Guess I won't know for sure until September when I take the engine out.

Last edited by 50SEVEN; 04-07-2014 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:56 PM
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so no turbo ?

So you have looked to see if there is a turbo there, did we ever come to a conclusion there ? as far as a visual inspection goes, you should be able to see something ?
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:05 PM
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Exact match

Xenon had a list of model variations, yours is an exact match

XenonZcar.com
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by PredatorZ
So you have looked to see if there is a turbo there, did we ever come to a conclusion there ? as far as a visual inspection goes, you should be able to see something ?
Yeah, I mentioned earlier in that long post that I saw it. It was a little hard to see because I was using a crappy light and wasn't 100% sure where I was looking. I followed the intake piping and found it on the driver's side at the bottom.
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:15 PM
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cool

Must have missed that, so you have an authentic car, grats. Now to just get it running and back on the road, the journey begins.
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:17 PM
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Yeah, need to figure out what's causing to run rough. PO thinks he screwed up the timing, so I'll start there. It smells like it was running rich when he pulled it into my garage. I'll see what I come up with on friday. Of course I also need to buy a new battery and fix my DD.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 50SEVEN
Yeah, need to figure out what's causing to run rough. PO thinks he screwed up the timing, so I'll start there. It smells like it was running rich when he pulled it into my garage. I'll see what I come up with on friday. Of course I also need to buy a new battery and fix my DD.
That's the reason I didn't buy it. The mystery behind why it wasn't running well.
Sort of kicking myself for not....



anyway, the tail lights are easy to swap out, as well as a bunch of other body parts. Cars that are 30 years old can have plenty of swapped parts over the year, too. From tail lights to motors.
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Old 04-11-2014, 02:50 PM
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Alright, so here's the update! I decided to figure out what was wrong with the engine, so I figured I'd check the timing since that was what the PO said he may have screwed up. Well, long story short, I can't drive a manual. Sad, I know. So here I am with the car stuck in the garage such that I really can't see anything to be able to check the timing. I did buy a new battery, so at least the car CAN start. I've learned there are a lot of things I overlooked on this car. Not things that are unfixable, but just things that will eat a hole in my pocket.
The blower motor sounds like a dying animal and shakes the car. The battery terminals are corroded. The radio works, but seems to skip from station to station and only works when the engine is on. The interior DESPERATELY needs to be cleaned. Oh, and my car smokes when you shut it off and smells like unburnt gas.
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