E-Brake
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1
I just had to do this on my '93 Z. In my case, on one side the e-brake shoes had rusted solid, and on the other side the e-brake cable rusted solid into the sheath end where it enters the brake housing.
Here's how I fixed it:
For the rusted non-moving brake shoe, I just had to break it free by prying the moving parts apart with a giant screwdriver. Then I coated all of the mating surfaces with brake caliper/shoe grease.
For the side with the rusted solid cable, I completely dissassembled the parking brake shoe (take careful note of what springs go where, etc.) and then unbolted the cable from the brake housing so that I was able to feed the cable out of the brake area. I scraped away all the rust I could, sprayed it with WD-40 and then gave a good tug of the e-brake lever. This broke the cable free. Then I scraped off all the now-loosened rust, thoroughly coated all moving parts with brake caliper/shoe grease and reassembled everything.
Also, its worth noting that you can trace the cable underneath the car if you jack it up and put the car up on 4 jackstands. By feeling where the cable is loose or tight when the lever is pulled you can identify where your restriction is.
Now, with regard to calibrating the e-brake, the service manual says to expand the shoe until it makes contact (stick a screwdriver through the little hole in the rotor while the hole is lined up with the adjuster at 6 oclock) and then back of 5 or 6 clicks.
Here's how I fixed it:
For the rusted non-moving brake shoe, I just had to break it free by prying the moving parts apart with a giant screwdriver. Then I coated all of the mating surfaces with brake caliper/shoe grease.
For the side with the rusted solid cable, I completely dissassembled the parking brake shoe (take careful note of what springs go where, etc.) and then unbolted the cable from the brake housing so that I was able to feed the cable out of the brake area. I scraped away all the rust I could, sprayed it with WD-40 and then gave a good tug of the e-brake lever. This broke the cable free. Then I scraped off all the now-loosened rust, thoroughly coated all moving parts with brake caliper/shoe grease and reassembled everything.
Also, its worth noting that you can trace the cable underneath the car if you jack it up and put the car up on 4 jackstands. By feeling where the cable is loose or tight when the lever is pulled you can identify where your restriction is.
Now, with regard to calibrating the e-brake, the service manual says to expand the shoe until it makes contact (stick a screwdriver through the little hole in the rotor while the hole is lined up with the adjuster at 6 oclock) and then back of 5 or 6 clicks.
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Tsuka89
280ZX Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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Jun 5, 2011 12:58 AM
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