NismoPick

The easiest way to do the timing chain (IMO anyway):
-install chain guides
-push on crank sprocket (make sure the "dot" side is facing out)
-install timing chain on crank sprocket w/ the lower shiny link aligned w/ the sprocket dot
-bring chain up through the head & install cam sprocket aligning shiny link w/ cam dot (for position #1)
-keeping the chain tight w/ your fingers, install the cam sprocket onto the cam
-install chain tensioner
-make sure everything is torque'd to spec
-give it a couple rotations to make sure it all lines back up (should be min of 4 full chain rotations)

Other hints:
It's a good idea to soak the chain & gears in oil before installing (or at least spray the components w/ white lithium before rotating).

Oil pump install:
There are aligning marks on the oil pump. The Haynes manual has install instructs for it which are simple (I don't have my manual at work or I would simplify it more for ya).

wgc_3

No worries on the oil pump.


Thanks Nismo for your help!

wgc_3

Update: No parts are in yet....

Question Though:

The fuel regulator goes on the end of the fuel rail correct? (it regulates the fuel leaving not coming in)

Thanks,
wgc_3

NismoPick

Yep... regulator goes after the injectors. Here's a pic (this is an n/a, yours doesn't have the cold start tube)

FubarI33t

I never could find a shiny mark on my chain. Turned it over and over to find. No where to be found

NismoPick

Was the chain dirty?

I know some off-brandname component companies don't put markings on their chains... they also make plastic guides. Stay away from them.

wgc_3

Ok so I recieved the parts late today! Anyway here is an update on where we stand, the front cover is back on, the water pump is back on, the oil pump is back on, the oil pan is back on, the chain seems to do fine,

problems-
a) chain I got from Black Dragon did not have markings.... so I had to count the links from the old chain to the new one and then mark the new chain...

b) droped the small head bolt on the front down the head once I had put the cover back on, (took me 30min to get the damn thing back)

c) so far so good......


Gentlemen/ladies there is no way I can thank you for all the help you have given me, I really feel good knowing that there are good people out there, and well sincere and utmost thanks and respect.

Will update the more that comes around



Also kinda of ticked off, I sent my money off for my fuel rail to Palnet, and still don't have it back been nearly two weeks...... thats my main hold up.......

NismoPick

Wahoo!

PS... email Pallnet@hotmail.com I know he's busy... but he should answer ya. He's also got MSN Messenger.

wgc_3

OK so here is an update on the engine,

Putting all the misc back on, now the vacuum lines,,,,, :'(

One thing I can't seem to find is the damn pwr steering bracket..... which doesn't help the least bit. Also waiting on Jegs for my K&N airfilter..

Two questions-

1) The little box infront of the drivers side strut with a vacuum line and a wire, can that just go to any vacuum or does it have to go to a valve? Sorry thats the only line I didn't take a picture of.

2) The degree bar with teeth should that be on the drivers side or passangers. For some odd reason I put it on the opposite side of the distributor, and it seems wrong? Is it wrong or is it me?

Thanks for your help,
wgc_3

Bleach

We'll see if youre still thankful once you try to fire that engine up.

oh, and Pallnet is not a store. You should expect no less than 4-8 weeks for delivery. put your stock fuel rail back on

NismoPick

#1... is the boost sensor. The vac hose needs to go to the intake manifold. There is a set of tubes running on the side of the intake manifold... and the front one t's off. You connect it to that, then the manifold.

#2...

snwbrderphat540

boost sensor eh..... i might want one of those.....

NismoPick

It's just for the stock boost gauge... otherwise not needed. It's not connected to the ecu.

snwbrderphat540

well... im gonna want to know my boost, aka out in aftermarket one... its alwasy nice to know your not leaning out your injectors...

wgc_3

Thank you once again!

Nice red btw.

wgc_3

Want to know the sad thing about this whole forum/post.

I still don't have the damn tie rods off.

NismoPick

I dunno what else to tell ya on those tie rods... might have to put it back together & take it to a shop to have them loosen them. Both sides aren't coming off?

wgc_3

Nope they arnt coming off. I'm hoping that once I am done with the engine, and I'll try a little harder and they magicly come off!

Just a thought *crosses fingers*

Is there a page on the Haynes to where it shows vacuum lines?

Better yet the canister on the front of the car next to the raditor where do those three go?

NismoPick

Page 106

Pages 136-143

wgc_3

Thank you good sir.

wgc_3

A thought on the tie rods. What if I leave the ball in the arm, and then force the nut loose. Then maybe I could screw off the rod it self?

Just a thought.

duckyz

You could clamp down the tie rods and spin the car around....

wgc_3

Good news is now I did the pressure test they're holding between 138-141!

Before it was around 90!

So I fixed the problem I was going after..... I hope!

wgc_3

Ok so I've figured out most of the vacuum lines, but the one coming out of the cansiter with the funny 90 degree arm on it goes where?

Thanks,
wgc_3

NismoPick

Those pages in the Haynes manual should explain where they go. I believe one hooks to the fuel vapor line, one to the intake manifold, and the other to the boot between the AFM & turbo.