Tips for Smog
02-15-2008, 05:36 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Shafter, CA
Posts: 79
Tips for Smog
I live in California, and I was wonderin' if you guys had any tips on how to pass? I drive an '83 280ZX with T-tops (N/A), if that helps. Also, what kind of oil does it use? Or which do you recommend as the best?
02-15-2008, 07:28 PM
#3
Big Poppa
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mission, British Columbia
Posts: 4,499
run a liter of methyl hydrate, inflate your tires to max psi, new cat, or good shape, run 6 deg. ignition timing. unplug, or disable #5 injector. cant loose then, it works, just try it!! i got it down to a science, and my motor is nasty without the changes.
02-16-2008, 12:09 AM
#8
eff good grammar
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Deadford OR
Posts: 1,578
Originally Posted by NismoPick
Does that go along side the flux capacitor?
its in the engine compartment and hooks up between your EGR valve and the rest of the vaccum system, theres also a hose on the bottom that hooks to the exhaust
02-16-2008, 01:08 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Shafter, CA
Posts: 79
Yeah...
I'm a total beginner when it comes to car parts
I can figure out the catalytic converter, fuel injectors, and inflating the tires-
But a liter of methyl hydrate? Where? And how do I change the ignition timing? I can ask my dad about the 5th injector
10W-30 oil? Thanks you guys, I'm gonna get it smogged soon.
I'm a total beginner when it comes to car parts
I can figure out the catalytic converter, fuel injectors, and inflating the tires-
But a liter of methyl hydrate? Where? And how do I change the ignition timing? I can ask my dad about the 5th injector
10W-30 oil? Thanks you guys, I'm gonna get it smogged soon.
02-16-2008, 05:29 PM
#11
Originally Posted by JoeGasm
But a liter of methyl hydrate? Where?
Originally Posted by JoeGasm
And how do I change the ignition timing?
Originally Posted by JoeGasm
10W-30 oil?
02-16-2008, 06:57 PM
#13
Originally Posted by JoeGasm
Aight, methyl hydrate in the tank. With or without gasoline?
Originally Posted by JoeGasm
Also, what about like higher octane gasoline? Think that'll help?
Just do what we suggest. And again I ask (because you didn't answer me when I asked the first time): Did the car just fail emissions? Why are you so worried that it won't pass?
02-16-2008, 07:26 PM
#14
eff good grammar
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Deadford OR
Posts: 1,578
Originally Posted by NismoPick
His 83 won't have that....
And there's no such thing as a muffler bearing. It's just called an EGR valve.
And there's no such thing as a muffler bearing. It's just called an EGR valve.
i dont care is his 83 doesent have that and i hope your not telling me mufflet bearings dont exist.
either way i posted a pic of that thinky up there and no one told me what it is or what it does so i said i was going to call it a flux capicitor, obviously since i am not going back or foreward in time its of no use to me unless some one can explain it to me.
02-16-2008, 08:01 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Niku-Sama
unless some one can explain it to me.
Page 141-142 of the 280zx manual, page 232 of the 240z-280z manual:
It's a BPT valve
02-16-2008, 08:30 PM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Quartz Hill, Ca
Posts: 363
Originally Posted by NismoPick
His 83 won't have that....
And there's no such thing as a muffler bearing. It's just called an EGR valve.
And there's no such thing as a muffler bearing. It's just called an EGR valve.
nismo hate to rain on your parade haha http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=10
and actually there is toyota designed one to allow the exhaust pipes to flex on some of there newer cars because of the tight bends...
02-16-2008, 11:24 PM
#20
eff good grammar
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Deadford OR
Posts: 1,578
Originally Posted by NismoPick
Not sure how that relates to a 280zx EGR system... but cool. Muffler bearing does not = BPT valve.
Muffler bearing does not = BPT valve.the hell does the BPT valve do?
no i dont have my manuals they've gone MIA as they normally do when i need them
02-17-2008, 03:06 PM
#23
Big Poppa
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mission, British Columbia
Posts: 4,499
ah yes but now the government wants there cut, up here its 24dolla per test, get expensive fast, thats why i cheat to pass!! for a late model car up here its 48 dolla, and you get tested every 2 years. and all they do is plug in the obd port and tell you its good. the 5th injector really helps i found, but i got a hefty number of modifications, but it did help on all my customers z cars, and they were stock. you just gotta make sure that if they are gonna do an under hood check you try and hide the injector being un pluged, or put a connection in it that you can unplug and hide.
02-18-2008, 11:40 AM
#25
Head Muckraker
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 9,221
You guys crack me up.
First, if you're in Cali, get a "pre-test". Basically, you pay to have them smog check it, but, if it's WAY over the limit, you don't get screwed by being labeled a "gross polluter" and it'll give you an idea of what's not working right.
Yes, you have to pay for it twice, but it's worth it to avoid possible nightmares later.
If you want to take a shot at it and try to get it to pass the first time, check your catalytic converter and make sure it isn't plugged or empty. Then, like Shady suggested, unplug or block the contact where it connects to the injector on the #5 cylinder counting from the front (by the radiator) to the back (by the windshield). Make sure it isn't obvious and there's no dangling wires or the smog tech may get suspicious.
This will reduce the amount of fuel going into the system and increase the RATIO of unburnt air coming out the exhaust, diluting the emissions and making it look better than it really is. The L6 motor has enough torque that you can barely tell when one cylinder is missing, there are no "engine" warning lights and the average joe smog tester won't know what to do when he can't find an OBD port anyway. As long as the sniffer test passes, he'll send you on your way with a passing grade.
However, I always try to pass my emissions tests with legitimate numbers since that is a great indicator that the car is actually running properly and efficiently.
First, if you're in Cali, get a "pre-test". Basically, you pay to have them smog check it, but, if it's WAY over the limit, you don't get screwed by being labeled a "gross polluter" and it'll give you an idea of what's not working right.
Yes, you have to pay for it twice, but it's worth it to avoid possible nightmares later.
If you want to take a shot at it and try to get it to pass the first time, check your catalytic converter and make sure it isn't plugged or empty. Then, like Shady suggested, unplug or block the contact where it connects to the injector on the #5 cylinder counting from the front (by the radiator) to the back (by the windshield). Make sure it isn't obvious and there's no dangling wires or the smog tech may get suspicious.
This will reduce the amount of fuel going into the system and increase the RATIO of unburnt air coming out the exhaust, diluting the emissions and making it look better than it really is. The L6 motor has enough torque that you can barely tell when one cylinder is missing, there are no "engine" warning lights and the average joe smog tester won't know what to do when he can't find an OBD port anyway. As long as the sniffer test passes, he'll send you on your way with a passing grade.
However, I always try to pass my emissions tests with legitimate numbers since that is a great indicator that the car is actually running properly and efficiently.
