after amfu [a major f*** up]

guy broke leads to resistors, no injector operating on #1 and # 6 injectors.
no vom readings on #5 either.

Checked and leads broken off by sob pulling too hard thru firewall.
Ordered ne 11 w 6.8ohm resistors that have the same value, no heat sink, no ceramic body.
Am going to [actually have] wired them in. have a small methal box [lowes] and fiberglass insulation to handle the heat, what do you think I can expect temp wise.

I am going to try with out the box and fiberglass insulation so see what the actual temp might be.
desc. 6.8 ohms 5%
OHMITE brand.

Talked to engineer, said 11 watt 6.8ohm will operate cooler.

a resistor is a resitstor...they cost jwt from othe than jwt for .50 cents a piece.


got these shipped overnite. better quality, 2 bucks each.

heat is the question.

kenny and jim

wanna tackle this anyone.

 

I'm not sure what the question is? The heat in the engine bay or the heat on the resistors?

Dude, you gotta slow down with your typing and work on your grammar and spelling.

 

heat on the resistors, sorry my buddy jim bean helps me type sometimes..lol.

 

Alright, I must ask this question:
Is Jim Bean an actual person, or do you mean you are almost always drinking? If you mean the drink, that would explain your semi-incoherent posts.

 

I want to say thank you for your professional informative response to my questions.

I have made the mistake of not doing this job myself the first time around. I spent way more money than I should have.....

After having everything put back together, from bare block, then firing the car up only to have the headgasket blow and at the same time the front seal tore, slinging oil everywhere made me a little angry.

I even found that the thermostat had been installed upside down.

I decided to time off from work to redo everything. Along with constant distractions, phone calls running a business, and getting a little done each day.

Got car running, not very well though. Found no spark to #1 and #6 cylinders. wtf
Turned out that a freind who offered to install wiring harness in return for letting him use my cherry picker to change out motors in his Honda, forced the harness thru the firewall breaking the connections to the dropping resistors..[taped together like a little brick, little clearance]...Had to pull harness and make repairs....

I'm not a constant drinker! However, Jim Bean did visit more than a few times last week. I couldn't find someone to punch, or at least someone to help me straighten this problem out, they all left town. Everything Fubar helped me with was spot on, no beef with him.

kenny, jim has left the building.

 

I really wish i could of helped alot more on the car. I can't understand why the head gasket blew right away. maby the boost was set to high, or somthing was missed on my part of the install. I can't remember if we replaced the front seal, or if it was left alone from the orig set up. it's been so long. and i've done so much since then it's hard to remember anything over a month ago. Way to many energy drinks and 16 hr days in this heat of iraq. luckly i no longer am a dismount and i work on systems i can not name. but life is a lil easyer here though.

 

I don't remember either!
The car sat for so long with work done here and there, my fault. Like you said, when the radio goes out and I remove the radiator, to fix it too....lol.

To many projects going on at the same time.

I had the car up and running, it sounded, well, awesome!
Joey M. put the harness back in and snagged it, pulling the wires out of two resistors.

I replaced the resistors with generic type, no ceramic insulation and reinstalled the wiring harness. No spark wtf?

So I did some tests. I saw that the ecu was pulsing the [new] power transistor at .2v,the vom connected to the yellow wire to euc harness, turning the engine over with the starter.

12v was measured at the coil positive wire.

Took out dizzy, spun it, injectors firing, fuel pump cycling on and off.

The fuel pump works when you turn on the ignition, you can't hear it running while starter is spinning the motor, downpipe only is installed, very noisy. But with the dizzy out, spinning the shaft, you can hear the pump cycle on and off so I assume all is okay with that.

I cannot for the life of me understand why there is no spark.

What else could possibly be causing this????

I am at the point of using the wiring harness from the grey turbo car and starting from scratch?

I know its something simple, but for the life of me cannot figure it out.

any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
kenny

 

Well. two new resistors could of done something to the motherboard of that new ECU.

 

talked to Ben at JWT and he said: "as long as the output matched you're okay" So you don't have to use their product there.

JWT uses a 10w in 6.8 ohms out, actually they measure @ 7 ohms.
Mine are 11w in 6.8 out, they also measure @ 7 ohms.

Interesting note: While googling the manufacturer for the exact part JWT uses, I found a warehouse near Atlanta that sells them for fiddy cents each!

The sales person was very informative, giving me information about those dropping resistors and what they are used for. They are commonly used in musical equipment crossovers. He said to find someone local that services speakers, crossovers, amplifiers....
He gave me Ambro Music in Memphis, and Strings and Things that he said buy those from him regularly. Of course, they wouldn't sell them outright to me. pita...
So I called the guy back, told him that, gave me a local electronics warehouse, a resistor is a resistor is a resistor, as long as the end result is what you need.
I called them and talked a bit about what I was doing. So,
I bought 6 new Ohmite brand resistors.

So far the car has all new engine sensors and dropping resistors, and did I fail to mention a new Power Transistor as well.......I mean all of them have been replaced with new.

New injectors, yada, yada, yada.

I cannot get the coil to fire....it has to be something simple.
but I refuse to get worked up over it.

hit me up on my email jeff.

 

i had a thought, if dropping resistors are by passed are we able to run higher resistance injectors?

 

I do think that's how the cookie crumbles

 

I forget which way it was. I think I've heard both is that the resistors on the 81' 280ZXT are low impedance resistors being run on a high impedance driver/ECU. I also though I heard that they were both low resistance, but Nissan put the dropping resistors in for safety. Then later years realized it wasn't needed?

I came across a post by JeffP when doing a search about dropping resistors. It was a post on Z31Performance.com. Anyway he was mentioning about using dropping resistors and the higher the ohm rating the more it would affect the a/f ratios. He was noticing that he would run more lean with a higher ohm rating on the resistors and run more towards what he was aiming for with a lower resistance. He also mentioned that through his testing that you could run the high impedance ECU with a low impedance injector without resistors and you really won't risk burning them out since the ECU never holds them open long enough to actually accomplish burning them out. It was an interesting read.

 

I'd like to see that post.

I was worried that my new resistors would run hot. That is not the case.
I had prepared to improvise a heat sink of sorts in case they ran too hot.
So a dropping resistor is a dropping resistor, heat is not an issue, at least not on a zcar.

kenny