I'm starting to acquire parts for my motor, to finally put it back together, and I am, sadly, buying them in small packages, and not all together (I get paid weekly, also, gas guzzling oldsmobile and job across town)

So, I'd like to get my motor together in the right order, and right now, it is completely apart, so what all would I need to get from the Zstore first, I want to say:

1. Crankshaft bearings, and the front and rear crank seals, because everything else would revolve around that

2. Piston rings/rod bearings/ARP rod bolts I'd get at the same time

3. Then all the stuff for the cam/valves, retainers, etc. (What all is recommended, and while I'm here, would it just be simpler to get one of the Preformance cams from thezstore, either Stage1/2 Turbo cams? I'd also have to get new lash pads(No big deal), etc.)

I'm just wondering if anyone has any suggestions?

I'd like to hear ideas before things get bought, but I'll eventually have everything.

 

First, what does the motor need?
Why is it getting rebuilt?
Did it overheat? Seize up?
How do the current components look?
Have you checked ebay? You can get most of the same stuff that MSA sells, for much cheaper on ebay.

 

Motor needs bearings (crank and conrods), also needs main seals, piston rings, water pump. I'm also going to replace almost 100% of the bolts, and I'm going to get ARP head studs, and ARP rod bolts

It overheated, blew headgasket, been sitting ever since (and to think I bought an Rx7 for 1050, bought a new motor for it for 800, and never thought to put all almost 2 grand into my Z, whose an idiot?!)

The only components I have left (That I didn't throw away) are the only ones that passed my visual inspection, the pistons look fine, I had to get rid of a few as they were scratched (however, these were from my friends siezed motor, so I have a total of 10 good pistons/rods)

I have checked ebay, I'm just not sure I'd like to go that route unless I can see "Nissan OEM Parts" somewhere in the description, or if I can get word on a trusted brand.

Either way, no more shenanigans, it's Z time

 

- Clevite bearings
- ITM Pistons (come with rings and pins) - these have to be the bargin of the century. They are hypereutectic and very closely balanced. About $36 each!
- ITM gasket set. You can use whomever's gasket set and people will argue this till the end of time - regardless get a kit instead of bits and pieces...
- +1 on the ARP hardware. At least the head and rod bolts...

 

Dude if you wanna come to Dallas, I have a whole L28E that you can buy or scavenge on. I'm not at home right now but you can have at it, I'm prolly gonna scrap it if you don't get it. Nothing wrong with it, had the head resurfaced last year. Ran when I pulled it right before Thanksgiving, and has an exhaust leak at the manifold.

 

I have an ET, so not alot of parts would really fit (Only accessories), I do have an L28E in my 280z tho, however I may end up sticking my spare ET (longer way to go than my current motor as far as building goes) in the bay, but I'm not sure on that yet.

 

I got itm piston for 29 dollars a piece, I went to napa and got tge sealed power rod and main bearings. Also while there got front and rear main seals which includes a timing cover n water pump seal kit. Also got a valve cover gasket n oil pan gasket while there. Then ordered on eBay a kameari mls head gasket with Arlington head studs for 300. Then arp rod bolts and main sure on there. Buying my arp stuff on there probably saved me over 200 bucks. My turbo engine will be out of tge machine shop soon.

 

Are ITMs stronger than stock? Sure, the stock ones have a few miles on them, but they check out.

I have the timing/water pump gaskets

I have a headgasket from MSA, but I was thinking of using something better than what looks like... cardboard.. pinkish cardboard

But I'm looking at ARP Rod bolts for about 72 shipped, and head studs for about 133 shipped, decent?

 

Yup good prices there. It's tough finding a good deal on an mls headgasket these days. And idk if the are stronger but they are least just as good, cheap, and brand new.

 

I've used ITM components in several engine rebuilds, but never held on to the car long enough to see how they do. I did have a problem with their KA24DE cam idler pulley. It was a half tooth off and made the dizzy timing a nighmare to set. From web reviews, they are like AutoZone / O'Reilly aftermarket parts, but only internet based. $133 for ARP head studs is normal. I think I paid $129 for my set 3 years ago. And have you thought about an MLS head gasket? Maybe TheRamz can get you a stainless steel one? ( https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-performance-technical-124/boost-32761/ )

 

Looks like the price went up a bit from what I paid.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=230506966184

 

Oh I know why, I put in an offer. It was obo n he accepted it. Think I paid around 300 plus shipping. Pretty sick deal.

 

Shiza! $400! You could get a machine shop to cut one out of any metal you want for that price.

 

Bumping this ancient thread. I started putting the head back together and:

ARP 202-5406 Nissan L24/26/28 6 Cylinder Main Stud Kit

Does not fit. They're huge and dont even fit in the main bolt threads.. possible that these are for the pre-280zx L28 block?

Wtf.

So close, and then life gives a booty call and decides to **** me again.

 

Who did you buy them from? Was the box opened?

 

eBay My World - titanmotorsports

I did open the box, it was sealed, I was under the impression that it would fit, as it was labeled for the L28 block =/

meh.

 

I bought mine from SummitRacing and they fit perfectly... For the Head studs, Cap studs, and Rod bolts I paid about $350.

Here is a quote from my rebuild thread.
Of course it was really easy for me to order the right bolts since there is a Summit Racing store across the highway from my apartment and they carry them in-store.

 

Those are the same ones I purchased, but all of the studs are the same size. These are for the cam towers, correct?

Also, do the stock main bolts stretch like headbolts, where they need to be replaced if you take them out? Or will they be okay to use again?

 

Yeah the studs securing the head to the block. I replaced them because one of my original crank cap bolts broke. They are 30 years old so there is a good chance of the rest braking. I just snapped an oil pan bolt at 6 ft/lbs. I am getting tired of braking these damn things so I will be replacing every bolt that gets torqued. Better safe than sorry...

 

What's happenin bros

I did a dry run to try to get my head studs to thread, but they won't go all the way in

I managed to get some Brake cleaner from work, so what I did was let the threads sit overnight in PB Blaster as there was a little bit of rust in the bottom grooves, and I thought it all got out. I turned the block so that when I was spraying the brake clean everything would drip out and would not pool inside.

Then I used the included ARP assembly lube, and they are still turning out like this:
(Sorry for the neck crane, photobucket is being a sheister)


All the studs on the battery side are like this, and the two short studs on the intake/exhaust side are the same, technically, the only studs that threaded all the way, are the longer studs that pierce the cam towers

 

Did you chase and clean the threads first?

 

I did. It's weird, the longer studs, fit into every thread on the block, I even tried some of my unused head bolts and they thread all the way. It's only the shorter head studs I'm having an issue with, the longer head studs thread in all the way...

 

might have tighter thread tolerances?

 

Did you use a bottoming tap? There must be junk in there. It looks like some are seating properly...

 

This. The bottom of the threads were gunked up. No updates for a while. Sick, pff