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Starter Solenoid Pops In and Out Rapidly

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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 04:50 PM
  #1  
Luke Knoble's Avatar
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Starter Solenoid Pops In and Out Rapidly

Just got a new starter, threw it in and it didn't reach the fly wheel far enough and grinded pretty loudly. So I took it apart and adjusted the washer to make it extend an extra millimeter.

After I hooked it up again, the solenoid just reciprocated really quickly, It didn't look like it was spinning either. I checked the voltage on the ignition line going to the starter, which seemed normal at 11.5+

Weird part is, if I hook the battery directly up to the terminals, it functions just like it should.

The FSM isn't providing much help, could my stater relay be messing up?

Thanks, Luke!
Old Apr 20, 2013 | 04:59 PM
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Year

What year S130 is your car Luke, just a little more info is required please.

And welcome to the Forums, pictures of your car are always appreciated too !
Old Apr 20, 2013 | 05:43 PM
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Engine electrical PDF

This has a pretty good explanation of the starter circuit and how to diagnose it.

here's a link to a free download of the entire Service manual
XenonS130
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Luke Knoble
Just got a new starter, threw it in and it didn't reach the fly wheel far enough and grinded pretty loudly. So I took it apart and adjusted the washer to make it extend an extra millimeter.

After I hooked it up again, the solenoid just reciprocated really quickly, It didn't look like it was spinning either. I checked the voltage on the ignition line going to the starter, which seemed normal at 11.5+

Weird part is, if I hook the battery directly up to the terminals, it functions just like it should.

The FSM isn't providing much help, could my stater relay be messing up?

Thanks, Luke!
Sounds like a bad "new starter". What does it do on a bench test? Does the gear fully extend? Does the solenoid kick in and out normally?
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 11:15 AM
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It could be an electrical problem, if it clicks it could mean either corroded connections or a dead battery, 11.5v isn't all that normal, batteries are supposed to be 12.6v what you want to do is have somebody turn it over and watch what the voltage does as it is being started and see if it drops like crazy, which would indicate an undercharged battery or dying battery (lost its ability to hold a charge).

as far as a corroded connections, it could be resistance in the cables leading to the starter, you could do a resistance test to see if the cables are good, but that requires disconnecting the cable from the circuit, what you could do which is easier, is a voltage drop test, put your multimeter on voltage and put one lead on the battery positive post and the other lead on the positive stud of the starter and turn over the engine, do the same for the negative side, you should only see a very small amount of voltage, like .1v, but if it is higher then 1v you may want to inspect the cables for corrosion or damage.
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 12:52 PM
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@PredatorZ

Proud owner of 1982 280ZX Turbo, Automatic!

I've already looked through the FSM for help, but this seems pretty unique >.>

Photos will be soon to come! (;
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 01:00 PM
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@Gonzo & @mrprofile

Initially thats what I thought, but Autozone benched tested it without any problems.
Both the gear & solenoid extends normally!


My battery's connections are decent enough, I definitely recharged my battery and triple-checked my connections on the battery and the starter before wasting anyone's time.
Nonetheless, I don't see how low voltage could cause it to shoot in and out that quick?
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 03:26 PM
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"I don't see how low voltage could cause it to shoot in and out that quick? "

There could be enough to get the contactor to close but the current draw when it tries to spin the starter motor would then cause the voltage to drop below what is need to keep the contactor closed.
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 03:58 PM
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@Lazlo

That makes loads of sense, but I'm confusing myself more in this mess.

Just went outside and bridged the ignition terminal on the starter to 12v+ on the battery.
The gear popped out and stayed out, but nothing happened other than that.

When hook the battery directly up to the starter frame and its negative terminal like directed in the FSM, it spins; but how does the ignition wire trigger the gear to turn after its been extended?
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 03:59 PM
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Moreover, where would the starter relay be located/how can I test it?
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 07:47 PM
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It spins the gears by use of a built in solenoid, the same thing that moves the gear forward also makes the connection to spin the motor.
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 09:10 PM
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@mrprofile

Originally Posted by mrprofile
It spins the gears by use of a built in solenoid, the same thing that moves the gear forward also makes the connection to spin the motor.
So are you saying that the solenoid is a switch, and NOT a transistor? D=
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 10:34 PM
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Just take it back and ask for a replacement or find you a used one!I have 5 for S30 and S130!!
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 04:29 AM
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Bad starter solenoid

If you jumped it at the solenoid and you had a fully charged battery with good connections it should have worked perfectly. If it didn't you got a bad starter solenoid. The solenoid has two circuits, one is a magnetic coil that pulls in the drive gear, and the other makes contact between the two large posts on the solenoid. This is the part that's not working properly. Just because it tests good on the bench doesn't mean it's good... after all, it's not trying to turn a motor over, it's just free spinning with no load.
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 08:09 PM
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Uh.. Go away rain.

Got a few ideas, will be checking tomorrow or the day after depending on rain.
Will post results as soon as I get em!

Thanks for all the help, extremely appreciative of you guys! <333
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 11:18 PM
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no problem and no the starter has no transistor what so ever (at least in this old of a car, newer ones do, but not in the starter most likely), a small current from the ignition turns on a relay, that relay turns on a bigger current, that current turns on a solenoid (very similar to a relay only its a plunger kind) as the plunger is being depressed by the current it also pivots an arm that meshes the starter gear with the flywheel, at the same time the same solenoid switches a very large current to spin the motor, and the cycle is complete. makes sense?
Old Apr 25, 2013 | 09:47 AM
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Have you tried charging the battery yet?
Old Apr 25, 2013 | 11:38 AM
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@zedsdeadbaby

Originally Posted by zedsdeadbaby
Have you tried charging the battery yet?
...
Of course.
Old Apr 25, 2013 | 11:41 AM
  #19  
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@Everyone

Well, I took my solenoid apart for the umpteenth time today to no avail. I'm going to take it back to Autozone tomorrow and beg for a replacement.

But it definitely seems to be the solenoid that is having the problem activating the motor.

Thanks everyone for all the help! (:
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