Duck Ryder

I think I burnt a belt... not sure, never had that happen, belts have usually just broken on me in the past. Its hard to see in the engine compartment as it doesnt get very bright here in Oregon during the fall/winter months. Just got the car home and will be checking further.


Basically what happened, I was driving the car, and just as I was shifting, the motor hesitated and got a flicker of the fuel light and possibly another idiot light on the instrument panel. A few seconds later I started smelling somthing like burnt rubber. Pulled over into a parking lot and saw lots of smoke coming out of the front of the car. Popped open the hood and all the smoke was coming from between the radiator and the motor.

There also appeared to be a small but steady stream of fluid pouring onto the ground from around that area. However later as I checked again the stream was gone. It was raining heavier when I first saw the fluid. The fluid appeared to be water insoluable as it flowed away from the car.


I have to go clean the garage inorder to pull the car in and inspect further. Weather forcast is rain for the next week and it would be nice to work in a dry area.

Any suggestions would be great. Thanks

NismoPick

Sounds like a toasted water pump (which would slow / stop the belt, in turn slowing or stopping the alternator... explaining the lights coming on). Did the temp get hot?

EDIT... I had my water pump / alternator belt come off on the freeway once... nothing I could do for about 5 more miles. My old motor got HOT that day.

Duck Ryder

I was only about a mile from home, the car had not heated up much, the water temp gauge had barely moved. It was barely 30 seconds after that when I was able to pull over and stop.

If the water pump went out... had such bad timing, I just had the coolant flushed a couple weeks ago...




**Update**

Cleaned the garage and got the car inside and took a look. The belt for the alternator did break and the sides of the belt appeared to have been melted. I also appear to be low on radiator fluid. The was again insoluable fluid floating leaking out while the engine was running and there is definitely a spot in the drive way where I had the car parked when cleaning the garage. Unfortunately it is raining and hard to tell what the fluid is leaking.



Nismopick is scary.........

280zx2by2

sounds like the water pump seal went bad and the fluid leaked out... no lubey on the pumpy no turnny turnny, lots a smokey smokey and some smelly smelly... yeah i am going to write childrens books when i grow up...

NismoPick

Well... it is Halloween.

Duck Ryder

Anybody ever use one of those flexible cut to fit hoses?

lww

Uhhh... no...

KasbeKZ

i found your problem. you were a mile away and you got there in 30 seconds. you were going 120 miles an hour! that'll cause it to heat up and blow a hose sometimes....

but really, i'm near positive that you need a new water pump. though, the only thing that makes me think differently is that you said the fluid wasn't water soluble. makes it sound like oil, not antifreeze/water. but i guess i have seen antifreeze bead up on water before. i think....? maybe

Duck Ryder

I put a bucket under the car and its definitely antifreeze...

So, since the water pump broke and I need to drain the coolant and take out the radiator, I am going to get the rad rebuilt and replace all my rubber water cooling lines. I am overestimating that this will cost about $300.

Anybody know that if you bend the rubber cooling lines and then place it in boiling water, will the hose maintain the shape afterwards? I know it works with vinyl tubbing.

KasbeKZ

just get the right hoses from a z parts distributor.

Niku-Sama

i've used a hose like that and they are ok but theyre really meant fo your big older domestic pickups that usually have had some other engines (like my old one) put in to replace the stock one.

honestly who buys a 1965 chevy puckup with an inline 6 for a farm truck?

Duck Ryder

*Update*

Ah... You guys were right. I pulled out the radiator, got a good grip on the water pump and could not twist it. Pulled out the water pump, twisted it some more, heard some grinding and then the pulley moved... but the impeller stood still. Now the pulley and impeller spin freely... and independently. Got the new water pump, but probably wont have time until the weekend to install it.

Just wanted to wrap up this thread.

Thanks for the Advice!

280zx2by2

did the pump run dry or just freeze up by itself?

Duck Ryder

The pump froze up as best as I could tell.

snwbrderphat540

can a water pump run dry even? i mean, obviously if you drain the fluid but.... yeah....

280zx2by2

i was thinking the seal on the water pump was busted

snwbrderphat540

you keep saying this "things" and then after i point them out you claim to have meant these other "things" anyone else notice this trend?

280zx2by2

well if your a** would read some s**t from time to time and if you did notice i had posted my thoughts before you then mabe its you saying "things" after i point them out... notice a trend? ha is that what happened to your hair? what ever you see on that quier eye show is not a trend

snwbrderphat540

now you dont even make any sense. before at least you were a legible retard now your just a rambling retard

280zx2by2

and this isnt "rambling"...

Duck Ryder

I believed the driving shaft for the impeller is in fact sealed and water proof making the pump capable of running dry.

However as described in the hayes manual, there is some sort of diaphragm that can fail and this can be determined by checking for a small stream of coolant coming out of the bottom of the pump. Looking at the new pump I can easily see where this is located at. When I removed the old pump, coolant was leaking from this hole on the old pump.

Niku-Sama

how hard was it to change?
i have yet to replace any thing of this nature on this car so i am wondering. i am hopefully going to do the alternator thing soon with the 90 amp maxipad alternator if i can ever get my lazy *** up to do it.

Duck Ryder

It was really hard getting the radiator out by myself. The tabs that are used to bolt the radiator in are too wide to clear past AFM ducting and the air conditioning lines from the condenser.

I had to bend the air conditioning lines a little and disconnect the AFM. I am thinking of cutting or sanding the lower tabs down so that they clear the obstructions easier. but I am not sure my dremel will cut it.

The rest was easy (except for the clean up of spilled coolant - kitty litter)