Raise hand if stupid *raises hand*
#1
Raise hand if stupid *raises hand*
Ok guys, this is now my second post on day two. I'm going to have alot of stupid questions so please bare with me! (remember the only thing I have worked on are V8's)
So this is how it breaks down in my head, on the engine. Once you remove the head under that should be the cam?
Correct me if I am wrong please!
Thanks,
wgcthree
So this is how it breaks down in my head, on the engine. Once you remove the head under that should be the cam?
Correct me if I am wrong please!
Thanks,
wgcthree
#2
These are OHC (OVER-HEAD CAM) engines.... Take off the rocker cover & you will see the cam & rockers. If you are going to dig into the engine & aren't familiar w/ the setup: BUY A HAYNES MANUAL It will help you much more than we can.
#4
No degree tool needed.... just line up the cam w/ the correct chain link (make sure engine is @ TDC on cyl #1). FYI: if you take off the cam: DO NOT LET THE CHAIN LOOSE!!! Shove a block of wood (or use MSA's timing chain tool) between the chain to keep the lower part of the timing chain tight. If you let it loose, the tensioner will pop out, and you will have to remove the timing cover to get to it (which is lots of fun w/ the engine still in the car).
#5
I'm liking the sound of this already! Thanks for the tip. I am looking at having the head redone. Due to the fact that the previous owner had the lower end done but not the top end?!
Anyway, all the kits I look at for the head replacement also require a cam replacement, seems kind of excessive. What do you think?
Also, anyone know of an all in one kit for the head, that I don't need to buy the cam for?
Thanks,
wcgthree
Anyway, all the kits I look at for the head replacement also require a cam replacement, seems kind of excessive. What do you think?
Also, anyone know of an all in one kit for the head, that I don't need to buy the cam for?
Thanks,
wcgthree
#6
If the P.O. had the lower end rebuilt, but not the head, are you sure you have to do it? Just askin'. Nothing wrong with doing it for piece of mind, or for the sake of upgrading.
You shouldn't have to replace the cam if you're just getting a valve job done (keep the old rockers matched up with their valves, for correct re-use). Unless there's something wrong with it like a wiped lobe.
If you want to replace/upgrade the cam "while you're at it", try getting yours reground (e.g. Web Camshafts, or Delta Camshafts), and the rockers, too. A regrind is cheaper, you know the metal is good, and turnaround is pretty fast (couple of weeks).
In most of these cases, though, you'll have to readjust the valve train, possibly replacing the lash caps. Things can get more complicated from there depending on how much work you end up getting done on your head, but that kind of depends on your plans and the state of the head currently. There are some threads and links floating around here (and on the S30 board) about that stuff, as well.
Oh, and ditto Nismo's suggestion on a Haynes manual, as well as a Factory Service Manual. Invaluable for DIY work!
Dave
You shouldn't have to replace the cam if you're just getting a valve job done (keep the old rockers matched up with their valves, for correct re-use). Unless there's something wrong with it like a wiped lobe.
If you want to replace/upgrade the cam "while you're at it", try getting yours reground (e.g. Web Camshafts, or Delta Camshafts), and the rockers, too. A regrind is cheaper, you know the metal is good, and turnaround is pretty fast (couple of weeks).
In most of these cases, though, you'll have to readjust the valve train, possibly replacing the lash caps. Things can get more complicated from there depending on how much work you end up getting done on your head, but that kind of depends on your plans and the state of the head currently. There are some threads and links floating around here (and on the S30 board) about that stuff, as well.
Oh, and ditto Nismo's suggestion on a Haynes manual, as well as a Factory Service Manual. Invaluable for DIY work!
Dave
#7
WOW! Well thank you for the input this is great!
The reason for the head work is, the guy just had the pistons replaced, and there is a not even compresstion through all the pistons. When we talked he noted it never had any of the head work done, and he stated some problem with it.
Noted: From him that it needed the head rebuild?!?!
Maybe I was taken for a loop?
Thanks,
wgcthree
The reason for the head work is, the guy just had the pistons replaced, and there is a not even compresstion through all the pistons. When we talked he noted it never had any of the head work done, and he stated some problem with it.
Noted: From him that it needed the head rebuild?!?!
Maybe I was taken for a loop?
Thanks,
wgcthree
#8
There are no stupid questions here on these forums. We answer all. You are gona have two main things affect the Comp. Pistion rings, and Valve seals(or seats) If he just replaced pistions and rings. then it could be valves, or maby the rings were installed wrong. try head first. These car's are very easy to work on. Just becarefull on the smaller bolts like the 10mm and the 12mm. The Break Easy! lil tip to keep yeh from more hard work.
#9
This is good input! OK, so lets rebuild the head!
Where in yalls opinion would I get the parts?!
I need:
Valves, Rocker Arms, Springs, etc.
Anyone know of a kit to get it all done with?
Also, for you Texas people! Anyone in D/FW you'd trust? To rebuild it.
Thanks,
wgcthree
Where in yalls opinion would I get the parts?!
I need:
Valves, Rocker Arms, Springs, etc.
Anyone know of a kit to get it all done with?
Also, for you Texas people! Anyone in D/FW you'd trust? To rebuild it.
Thanks,
wgcthree
#10
Check out www.zxman.com
I think he's in the Dallas area. I've ordered stuff from him before, and he's a good guy to do business with...
Good luck, Bud!!
I think he's in the Dallas area. I've ordered stuff from him before, and he's a good guy to do business with...
Good luck, Bud!!
#11
Ok awesome!
The last time I messed with heads was years ago, and I bought them already built.
Now heres the thing,
What parts will I need?
What will I need to tell the mechanic?
Thanks,
wgc_3
The last time I messed with heads was years ago, and I bought them already built.
Now heres the thing,
What parts will I need?
What will I need to tell the mechanic?
Thanks,
wgc_3
#14
Originally Posted by FubarI33t
There are no stupid questions here on these forums. We answer all.
Can I fit two of these in the engine bay of my Z and still use the stock crossmember and hood without any modifications to the chassis or body whatsoever other then custom engine mounts?
That is a stupid question. As is: Which weighs more: a 2400lbs Z or a 2400lbs Civic. That is also a stupid question.
But you're right... I'm sure somebody will still try to answer these questions
#15
J They do have a Chopper version of those that Will fit into the engine bay of a Z. With out mod's to the crossmember, but you would need new grill, and firewall. But you can keep Crossmember and Hood Civic weighs more, cause you know they Riced it out with a bunch of BS.
#16
WOW! That's an engine!
Anyway, does anyone know if the Z is a 14mm Spark Plug or an 18mm? The reason I am asking is because the pressure tester I am getting for this only has those two sizes! *cross fingers*
So if someone knows please tell me!
Thanks,
wgcthree
Anyway, does anyone know if the Z is a 14mm Spark Plug or an 18mm? The reason I am asking is because the pressure tester I am getting for this only has those two sizes! *cross fingers*
So if someone knows please tell me!
Thanks,
wgcthree
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