KHCreason

First things first, its about time to get my car put back together. Now that I live and work an hour from my car (until the transmission is liberated), this has happened only very lightly in the last week. What this entails:

• Prepping and painting the passenger-side mirror. The removal and reinstallation requires the wires to be cut, and 4 quick-connects to be used instead.
• Attempting to reprep and then paint both headlight buckets. The first time I tried ended up having a TON of primer, cuz the stripper only got some stuff off, and its my Dad's, so i didn't have enough to slather the entire thing twice. The driver side is currently in primer, with the passenger not touched.
• The old insulation must be torched out. This is only one last spot, the area behind the passenger seat under where the speaker / storage thing goes. Its pulled out, and that is the last bit of torching I will do. Once it cools down. Its just excruciating inside the car, even with hatch and doors open, while torching and scraping with propane. NOT fun.
• A hole in the passenger floor, punched out to allow water to drain, because OBVIOUSLY there would NOT be a BIG RUBBER DRAIN PLUG 2 inches away... needs to be repaired, which will be done with Bondo + sheetmetal
• Gaping hole where the spare tire, I think, used to go, will need patched. Entire bottom is rusted out. This will be repaired with some sheetmetal and silicon. Maybe Bondo as well. It can be ugly, this car is not stock or show quality.
• Rear speakers must be wired. I am putting my dads old Sony Xplode 60W (300W max) three way 6x9's right in front of the tail light panels on either side. I think they are 6x9's anyway. Either way they sound GREAT. Yeah, I'm missing some trim back there, and no it wont be replaced.
• Need 2 40W smaller ones for up front in stock mounts. Suggestions?
• Need to replace head unit. Aftermarket JVC is shot, refuses to read CDs.
• Needs new Antenna, so I can listen to the radio.
• I would like to acquire black door panels, but have had no luck so far. Otherwise, they are just staying metal + hushmat colored.
• Headliner will be repaired in the method I saw on, I think, HybridZ, or it will be left how it is (black undercoated)
• Short throw shifter will be perfected and made NOT ugly. Its freakin hideous right now, but it works as intended. Cost me zero.
• The driver side hatch support doesn't support anything.
• Passenger seat needs to be mounted. Both seats need to be redone, though that will wait a while.
• Carpet needs laid down.
• I am going to remove the ignition and replace it with a 3-button plus one hidden switch push-button start. 1 for ACC 2 for ON 3 for GO, where 3 is a big round RED button that says START and the other two are those nuclear-missile switches that you have to flip up THEN press. Hell yeah. There is also some sort of switch on my dash that does nothing that I can tell, so I think I'll make that the hidden one.

That's most of the inside. I may be forgetting something, but that should be it. The engine is where it gets fun. I have been looking around for ideas on what to do to the motor, and decided that I don't really want to swap one out. If I used any forced induction it would be a supercharger, so the engine gets to stay NA. I've tore down and rebuilt a few engines so I basically know what I'm doing. So, after reading and reading, I decided on THIS build.

However, it is very late and I am very tired, and might have to spend a few hours at the doctor's tomorrow, so ill finish this when I can, to let everyone know exactly what I think I might possibly know and want, and then let everyone pick it apart and help or hurt

WildmaN

Sounds like quite a list. Kind of when I started with my '82 t-top. Anyway so when you remove the ignition. Would it be for sale? I am looking for an ignition with key in good shape. Let me know, and good luck with your Z project.

SpeciallySpiked

Why are you cutting these wires? Open the door panel and disconnect them.

Have you tried the dry ice trick? Search on here for it.

I'm running some infinity references up front and they're ok. 4-1/2" DIA and a lot more than 40 watts (if I remember correctly). The only problem is the tweeter sticks out of the speaker more than the original speakers did so they are in the way of some of the HVAC piping under there.

Is yours bent up? I would check to make sure the original antenna's wire was actually plugged into the stereo before I replace it.

Good luck with everything!

KHCreason

Because to take the mirror out, you have to get the connector on the end off. Or maybe I just didn't fiddle with it enough. Either way, now there are 4 little quick connects waiting to be heatshrink wrapped.

The wire running to the antennae is fine, but the antenna itself is broke off at the base. So i need a new one. Nothing major.

Yeah, most likely. It sticks a little if you don't pull the key out a tiny bit, so it may just need some lock lube, which I already bought so next time I'm in town I'll see if that's all it needs. If so, its in perfect working order. I'm basically waiting to have my headliner put back in, or at least mocked up, and to find a wiring diagram of the ignition-related wires so I know what to plug into what before I tear into it... and I'm pretty sure there is a thread on that somewhere, but I don't know yet, along with how to actually take that thing off. But yes, even though I know not what they may be worth. Offer + 5, I guess, since its not too big and can be put in a little box.

The goal is to have those three buttons either mounted up top, where the sun visor was, or on the dash pretty much where the ignition was. Just depends.
__________

Any ideas on what the best place to look for a F54 block is? What do they usually go for? And the Diesel crank, is a regular price, assuming you don't find and pull one, about $650? I hope not, but that's what I found on eBay. Any model year 240SX for the pistons, or only early years, or any in their engine? I think I saw new 9mm connecting rods for $89... is that a good price as well?

Any ideas or info is always appreciated, and as soon as my camera gets its new batteries I will take good pics and upload them for all to see!

PurePontiacKid

This thread scares me...

WildmaN

One more question. Is it an OEM ignition, not aftermarket? If so, how about $25 or so? Sound good? Just let me know + shipping to 85207. I appreciate it man.

KHCreason

Sounds great, and as far as I know, its OEM. The key doesn't look original, but if it is, then its rather boring. It looks like it would fit fine in a little box. UPS wants an arm and a leg, so I'd send it USPS Flat Rate, for $4.90, I think it said. As soon as I get a wiring diagram plus a day off to play with the car, I'll have it pulled and packed for ya, and get my push button setup mocked up. So $29.90 as it stands, unless I cant "reasonably" cram it into that box.

There's nothing to be ascared of, PPK... or is there?!?!?!

WildmaN

What does the ignition look like? Does it have the letters in black, or just plain? Also what does the key look like? Could you snap a picture of both of them? If not describe them, the best you can? Otherwise sounds good. Paypal cool, when you are ready?

KHCreason

Ill get my dad to take a couple pics of it for me and see if i cant get them onto this computer, otherwise it will wait a few days... The goal right now is to get my transmission back in the car and hooked up on Sunday, and if ive found a good wiring diagram by then, I'll pull the ignition and take pics. Then make mine!

But yes, paypal is fine.

FricFrac

Regarding the keyless ignition.... I'm planning on doing a keyless ignition for my 280ZX but security is a major issue for me. The S130 is way too easy to steal....

I'll be using the Sombra K9 alarm system which uses a ranged RFID. You need the RFID fob in or within a certain distance of the vehicle to enable the fuel pump/ecu/ignition, etc. It will also lock/unlock the power door locks when I'm within range (eg get out of the car walk away and it automatically disables the fuel/ecu/ignition and locks the doors). No need to push the button, etc.

The keyless ignition will be activated once the K9 enables the system. To start the car the clutch must be pushed in and the starter button pressed. If the clutch isn't pressed in then pushing the button will first turn on "Acc" then the second press will turn "On" and a third press will cycle back to "Locked". If you press the buttton when the engine is running the car will turn off.

The car will crank as long as you hold the button. On my 370Z it's all tied into the ECU (as is the security and fob) and you just press the button once with the clutch in and it turns it over untill it starts. I'm not going to bother with that feature for now.

The steering column lock will need to be disabled. Its easy enough for a theif to break so there is no need to have a solenoid column lock enable/disable, etc.


Here are a few starter switch options. The Maxima/Altima are virtually identical to my 370Z starter but cheaper. I prefere these switches to the GTR as they are opaque white and you have the option of changing the colour of the surface mount LEDs if you want. The GTR is red. The switchs light up "Locked" "ACC" and "On" around the bezel ring.

Maxima start switch

Altima starter switch

GTR starter switch

I have all the parts I need to do the setup but I need to design a circuit to control the start up sequence so the project is on the back burner for the moment....

Regardless I've already done a lot of the leg work so the links supplied above should save you some time trying to hunt parts down and you can keep it Nissan instead of using a S2000 start button

KHCreason

I talked to a guy at O'reillys that has doen some of his own wiring and all. He said that to do it, two need to be constant (ACC and ON) and one only powered while its pressed (START) and that there is a good chance relays will be required.

If I were to use any of these switches, it would be the GTR one, that is exactly the look I want. I would use two switches with the GTR one, in a 1-2-GO manner.

I need to find a wiring diagram for the ignition system, and from my limited experience with this says that as long as the switch I choose can withstand the current coming through it, it is good and I can simply plug it in, so to speak. What may be the case, however, is that i will need to use some relays and wire the switches ot it. Either way, it starts with a wiring diagram lol.

These are some of the switches I'm considering:
Option 1
Option 2 with THIS as well
Option 3

I really like the option 2, but heck i like all three! lol... ah well...

HERE is a full diagram from a 1979 ZX... I am 95% certain its the saem as my own. Think its any good? Ignition is kinda in the middle to the right.

FricFrac

... it's going to take more than a few relays to do it right.... you'll need latching relays at the least....

KHCreason

I know nothing of relays

However, I'll defnitely get the ignition pulled for you Sunday, WildmaN, because my original transmission... sigh... the rear exit spot was dropped at one point, bending the tailshaft. The new one cant be welded because of how close it is to something internally important. So, the guy MAY be able to source me a transmission. Hopefully. Either way, he doesnt work friday so i am SOL until at LEAST monday. Which sucks. Alot. sigh.

BUT... time to find a good curcuit-ing tutorial to explain relays to me! onward AWAAAAYYY!!!!

KHCreason

OK, here is a bit of what I have gathered concerning relays.

For the START button, it will need a relay built for a high-current circuit, and i can use the NISSAN GTR switch to activate it, UNLESS it is already strong enough to handle a high circuit load.

For the ACC button, I would need a relay built for moderate, constant current, using any old switch, BUT if I get a particularly high rated switch, then a relay would not be necesary, as the switch would be able to handle it.

Same for the ON switch. How far off am I?

The point of a relay is to use a small wire to make a big wire work, so to speak, referring to how much power wants to move through it. So, if the "small wire" is rated the same as the "big wire" then wouldnt they both be "big wire" and therefore no extra parts needed?

WildmaN

Sounds good man. Let me know, and we will make the deal. Sucks about your transmission. Hope you get it all figured out.

KHCreason

Pictures, pictures, everyone loves pictures!!!!

Give me anywhere form 5-30 minutes to get them uploaded.

Sorry, router took a dump on me. We're taking it back later today. But im uploading everything to photobucket, so ill have a great post with them in a few hours. Business to attend to, such as quitting my new job. Its just not sitting right with me, but ive been hooked up at another place, so we're good

KHCreason

For you, WildmaN:

KHCreason

For FricFrac and myself, to ponder the mysteries of ignitions

Video 1

Video 2

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10


For WildmaN again, concerning ignition:

Video 3

KHCreason

Ive got a TON other pics, but my router is still dumping on me... time ot pack it up and go send it back. DIrty rotten router...

Anyway. After the enw one is set back up, ill get all the rest up here.

FricFrac

Standard 40A relays will work to handle the power that goes through the ignition switch. The starter uses a lot of current which is why there is a solenoid that makes/breaks the current from the battery through the starter. That is likely controlled by a heavier relay which in turn is controlled by the ignition switch (probably - I haven't looked at the drawings).

Essentially a relay is used to control a large current with a low current. Typically a relay will draw .15 to .25 amps but can control 40A. That way you can use a switch and only have .25 amps controlling the relay and the relay passes up to 40 amps.

If you have a toggle switch that can handle 40 amps and you are controlling up 40 amps then you don't need to use a relay but if your switch is good for 1 amp and you are still controlling up to 40 amps then you need to use a relay.

KHCreason

Ah, okay... freakin' awesome. Hopefully I can get some super-heavy duty switches so I don't have to BS around with relays. Quick question concerning the ignition. Up in pic #4, it shows two wires coming off the ignition that aren't in that big plug. What are they? I do not see them on the wiring diagram, pic #5.

WildmaN

^ I believe 1 wire tells you when your key is in the ignition. With the door open. I am pretty sure, and the other plugs into a light, so you can see the ignition in the dark. Oh, and thanks for the pictures. And yes it does look like an OEM ignition. Just with aftermarket keys. Anyway when you are ready. Give me your Paypal email address. And I will send the amount as agreed.

KHCreason

I think THIS switch panel is just great. It seems to meet/exceed the amerage requirements as well, and can mate to the right relay if i learn how to do it. In fact, after looking at the description again, it looks like I wont need to Relay it, either.. what do you think, FricFrac?

My Paypal email is the one I use to log into and pay with and all, right? Ive never sold using it before.

WildmaN

^ Yeah whatever email you use to log in to Paypal, is the one I need. Then I will put the item being bought. And a little note, saying whatever else.

KHCreason

okay cool, gimme a sec to make sure i give you the right one lol

PMed ya