Overheating Distributor??
07-31-2008, 07:46 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 12
Overheating Distributor??
Ok this is strange. I have a 83 280zxt and I took the car to a local shop that specializes in z cars.
So as Im going up there and the car just dies on me. Hasn't done that in forever and wouldn't start. I had to have it towed to the shop and when it gets there it starts right up no problem.
The guy tells me that my distributor is overheating and needs to be replaced. He also said its a common problem in these turbo cars, but I was sure about that seeing as I have been lurking here and on other forums for awhile and never heard of it.
So what I want to know is, is he telling the truth? Is there a quick fix for this or do I need another distributor? And how hard is it to change myself? Thanks a bunch guys.
So as Im going up there and the car just dies on me. Hasn't done that in forever and wouldn't start. I had to have it towed to the shop and when it gets there it starts right up no problem.
The guy tells me that my distributor is overheating and needs to be replaced. He also said its a common problem in these turbo cars, but I was sure about that seeing as I have been lurking here and on other forums for awhile and never heard of it.
So what I want to know is, is he telling the truth? Is there a quick fix for this or do I need another distributor? And how hard is it to change myself? Thanks a bunch guys.
07-31-2008, 08:05 AM
#3
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
Maybe he's talking about the CAS? Or the ignitor?
Ask him what specific part is overheating.... the "distributor" is WAY too general of an answer. Give him this too:
Ask him what specific part is overheating.... the "distributor" is WAY too general of an answer. Give him this too:
Have you ever heard of any "common" overheating problem though? I have just never heard of that.
07-31-2008, 08:12 AM
#4
It's common to overheat a motor if there's no coolant. 
As for the common "distributor overheating" issue... sounds like a mechanic trying to get $$$ from any sucker he can. He should have at least told you WHY it's overheating or WHAT specific part. Or maybe he doesn't know what's INSIDE the distributor.
As for the common "distributor overheating" issue... sounds like a mechanic trying to get $$$ from any sucker he can. He should have at least told you WHY it's overheating or WHAT specific part. Or maybe he doesn't know what's INSIDE the distributor.
08-03-2008, 12:46 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: out in the country. =]
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the only thing i could see over heating would be the pick up coil, as they will do that via shorting out. I've had few melt down before. pretty crazy. the Z distributor has two clips holding it on, at least on mine it does. undo those and it will pull the cap off. other then that to take the whole thing out there should be one or two screws that you loosen to change you're timing. make sure you MARK where the distributor is unless you want to re time you're engine. the only other thing i can think of to make it "overheat" would be friction and i highly doubt its that. not in a distributor.
sounds like a bogus mechanic to me.
sounds like a bogus mechanic to me.
08-03-2008, 04:15 PM
#8
Haterade by da gallon!
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Valdosta GA
Posts: 2,306
is your problem just heat or is it shuting off? edit: ( it is shutting off so just keep reading)
if its shutting off replace the icu and pickup coil...if it dosent work then you can just put the ones you bought on the new distributor...
overheating is a major prob with 80's cars and trucks distributors... idk why?
if its shutting off replace the icu and pickup coil...if it dosent work then you can just put the ones you bought on the new distributor...
overheating is a major prob with 80's cars and trucks distributors... idk why?
Last edited by 280zx2by2; 08-03-2008 at 04:20 PM.
08-03-2008, 04:19 PM
#9
Mr. Fancy Connectors
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 648
correct me if I`m wrong, but ummm doesnt the turbo use a cas instead of a pick up? common overheating on the turbo engine is the igniter, run your car for a while and then stick a finger on the igniter and see how hot it is. if it burns you, that is most likely your problem. Also, just for curiosity sake, pull the distributor cap and see if its got carbon trails, they will look like off colored lighting bolts in the plastic.
08-04-2008, 12:31 AM
#11
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: z junk yard
Posts: 1,271
tis possable that the water temp sender is getting old like mine was corroded and just wasnt making a good connection... oil temp senser located right under number 5 spark plug could be faulty or worn out... my 280zxt didnt start acting up really bad until i installed a blaster 2 coil... after it got warmed up it would die.. and wouldnt start for like 20 min... i was geting mad !
08-04-2008, 06:51 AM
#12
Originally Posted by nismo619
oil temp senser located right under number 5 spark plug could be faulty or worn out...
08-04-2008, 10:45 AM
#13
NisTuner
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,800
As has been mentioned there's a little box on the side of the ignition coil, if you buy a new one it's the box and the bracket for the coil. This is a common problem as it has a tendency when going bad to run until the car warms up then it starts to overheat and causes the car to shut-off. The part is I think around $120, but it's really easy to change. Also if you haven't changed it I'd suggest changing the coil when you change the igniter. You don't have to, but at least this way it's one less thing to worry about.
08-05-2008, 04:03 PM
#14
ダットサンマニアック
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 256
Originally Posted by Mhinrichs
correct me if I`m wrong, but ummm doesnt the turbo use a cas instead of a pick up? common overheating on the turbo engine is the igniter, run your car for a while and then stick a finger on the igniter and see how hot it is. if it burns you, that is most likely your problem. Also, just for curiosity sake, pull the distributor cap and see if its got carbon trails, they will look like off colored lighting bolts in the plastic.
08-05-2008, 09:20 PM
#16
Originally Posted by ASA240z
umm what exactly is the cas and/or igniter?
Ignitor is the small black unit on the side of the distrib (n/a) or on the side of the coil bracket (turbo) which tells the coil when to spark.
08-06-2008, 06:09 AM
#19
Originally Posted by michanic220
nismo what does the crank angle sensor do actually?
It tells the ecu the crank angle (position of the crank).A more precise definition: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crank_sensor
A crank sensor is a component used in an internal combustion engine to monitor the position or rotational speed of the crankshaft. This information is used by engine management systems to control ignition system timing and other engine parameters. Before electronic crank sensors were available, the distributor would have to be manually adjusted to a timing mark on the engine.
The crank sensor can be used in combination with a similar camshaft position sensor to monitor the relationship between the pistons and valves in the engine, which is particularly important in engines with variable valve timing. It is also commonly the primary source for the measurement of engine speed in revolutions per minute.
Crank sensors in engines usually consist of magnets and an inductive coil, or they may be based on magnetically triggered Hall effect semiconductor devices. Common mounting locations include the main crank pulley, the flywheel, and occasionally on the crankshaft itself. This sensor is the most important sensor in modern day engines. When it fails, there is a small chance the engine will start (engine will likely cut out after a few minutes of driving) but it mostly will not start.
Some engines, such as GM's Premium V family, use crank position sensors which read a reluctor ring integral to the harmonic balancer. This is a much more accurate method of determining the position of the crankshaft, and allows the computer to determine within a few degrees the exact position of the crankshaft (and thereby all connected components) at any given time.
Another type of crank sensor is used on bicycles to monitor the position of the crankset, usually for the cadence readout of a cyclocomputer.
The crank sensor can be used in combination with a similar camshaft position sensor to monitor the relationship between the pistons and valves in the engine, which is particularly important in engines with variable valve timing. It is also commonly the primary source for the measurement of engine speed in revolutions per minute.
Crank sensors in engines usually consist of magnets and an inductive coil, or they may be based on magnetically triggered Hall effect semiconductor devices. Common mounting locations include the main crank pulley, the flywheel, and occasionally on the crankshaft itself. This sensor is the most important sensor in modern day engines. When it fails, there is a small chance the engine will start (engine will likely cut out after a few minutes of driving) but it mostly will not start.
Some engines, such as GM's Premium V family, use crank position sensors which read a reluctor ring integral to the harmonic balancer. This is a much more accurate method of determining the position of the crankshaft, and allows the computer to determine within a few degrees the exact position of the crankshaft (and thereby all connected components) at any given time.
Another type of crank sensor is used on bicycles to monitor the position of the crankset, usually for the cadence readout of a cyclocomputer.
08-06-2008, 10:37 AM
#21
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 12
Nismo has got to be a god of the zx, thanks a mill. I think the guy may have lied to me about why the car shut off. I've been driving it for a week and a half now and it has not shut off once.
What I paid him for seems to have fixed all my problems so im just going to keep an eye on things until something happens.
What I paid him for seems to have fixed all my problems so im just going to keep an eye on things until something happens.
