BackHouseZ

ok my 83 zxt auto will not start just cranks and cranks. in the past when it was running after driving for sometime. when i tried to start car it would not start untill like third try..(engine hot) Now it will not start unless it feels like it. I put a brand new battery in car and it started. now the next day it wont start. I did not leave battery connected.

I checked i fusible links and cleaned them. Also spark plugs have normal wear on them. cables good condition. I had a spare ignition control moduale tried that and still same no start. ( not 100% sure if spare was in working condition) I changed fuel filter..

I have not changed fuel pump. I do have a spare that i can try. just waiting for other ideas maybe before i do that. While i had it running yesterday it sounded good and strong. no misfire or bogging??? Once in the past i had it started and i drove it around the block to get a feel for it and it just killed on me. started back up after a couple of cranks. then i parked it again until yesterday.

any ideas will help----Oh yeah when i turn the key and you hear the fuel pump motor it sounds like it has cancer not really a smooth sound kinda like a buzzing rough sound but any way hope that helps

MurphyEF

Have you checked your cap and rotor? I had a similar problem the other day, where I thought it was heatsoak keeping my car from starting untill the third or fourth try. I checked my Dist. cap and rotor and they were fried.

NismoPick

A motor needs 3 things to start:
-proper air
-proper fuel
-proper spark

Do you have spark at each cylinder? Are all fuel injectors spraying?

BackHouseZ

I tried another ICM and still no start..

Air---I could use another Air filter..Vacuem lines seem all connected.

Fuel--I replaced filter..checked to see if gas shot out lines and it did. I have not checked injectors. How do I? I do know the connectors are good because i replaced them a year and half ago. and they still look good.

Spark-- Well I tried the test where you remove wire from dizzy(the one connected to the coil ) and i set it next to the strut bolt and did not see a spark. Granted it was day time but i used the shade from the hood to provide a little darkness.

BackHouseZ

This car does what it wants..ughhh i getting tired of this car.

So now i changed the fuel pump still no start. i disconnected the afm and it acted like it wanted to start ran for about 4 or 5 seconds but i just got a lot of white smoke snd was acting like it was gonna die and it did i had to pump gas pedal. (this was all before the fuel pump swap) I connected afm back after i cleaned it a little and still nothin. The Fuel pump sounds better than the last one..it sounds smooth the other had like a buz in and out sound like something was failing. IDK!!!

audiofreak97

Did you ever go further into this? Maybe the coil is bad?

NismoPick

I'm not sure why you replaced the fuel pump if the problem was no spark...

Like AudioFreak said... did you check the coil? Connections? Grounds? Ignitor?

WildmaN

I would say your AFM is bad. It sounds like it to me. And from my experience, I would bet on it. Swap it with another one. It is hard by looking if they are bad or not. But if they are, they can cause all kinds of headaches. And they do the symptoms your Z is doing right now. It is just dumping fuel, which would explain the white smoke. Hence the AFM is not working. Good luck.

BackHouseZ

Ok so yeah I did change the coil i used the coil and ICM from my other turbo z. And no start ...So changed the fuel pump because it sounded faulty. As far as the spark i figured it was getting it, since it would start sometime and when it did it would go for a little while. So yeah i changed the pump.

Wildman--I'm thinking maybe your right because when i tried to start the car when it was disconnected it actually started. It ran like crap plenty of white smoke but it a least was running. I hooked AFM back on and nothin i could not get the car to even want to start up. Then i changed pump, and still no start.

So I guess I'M gonna have to take the AFM of my other Turbo Z. I Hope that works and the car will remain on. The AFM is expensive. I may have to try that rebuild.

FricFrac

There should be plenty of AFM's around - post on one of the forums in the parts wanted. Rebuilding the AFM is pretty easy. Don't forget the connector. There should be a metal clip to retain it. Make sure the pins aren't corroded as well. Plenty of AFM issues aren't the AFM but the connection....

BackHouseZ

Well I put on the other AFM and Car would not start up at first. Cranked it like 5 times nothin...I try it one more time and it starts so it starts running ok engine has a slight lag but at least its running...SO no white smoke..I i rev engine a few times car was running for about 5 min and then she died.

No start after that just crank..which stinks because now the car is on the street again.ughh I checked for spark at the coil and yes I do have spark.

for some reason i think this may be an injector issue..really i dont know i guess i'm just troubleshooting everything.

Quik question is there a relay for the RPM gauge and if so where because mine does not work. Has not for some time now.

NismoPick

Next time it won't start, crank a few times, then pull several spark plugs to see if they are dry, or wet w/ fuel. You need to find out if it's flooded or starved.

Again, have you checked all the sensor connections? Especially the CHTS and ecu connections?

There is a transistor in the efi harness by the ecu (see black/white piece below gray box on right) but I bet the blue negative wire to your coil is disconnected.

BackHouseZ

Well I tried to start the car again today and nothin

So I pulled 3 spark plugs and the seemed dry to me a little oil on them but the tips was dry on all of them.

BackHouseZ

so I was just wondering...since the spark plugs seem dry. does that mean my injectors are failing? I have like a tester (ohm meter i guess) but i gotta find it. What should the reading be on the meter? thanks Hey Nismo http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...37panocopy.jpg
where does the wire in the far right bottom corner of the pic go?

BackHouseZ

Well I have good news...

The car is now running..problem..cap and rotor...plus i put new plugs but the cap and rotor was the problem.

So now i move on to the next issue which is, white Smoke coming from the back of the engine. i have some kinda leak i'm thinking oil from when i changed my valve cover. Plus my exahust manifold bolt broke inside (the last one on the block)... =(

So i know i have a exaust leak. Which I know is getting worse, they just want $600 to repair at the shop. =0

BackHouseZ

--------Update-------

OK Since the cap and rotor change the car started maybe 5 times I never drove the car anywear beacuse it still ran a little ruff but at least it started.

Now it does not start..i'm not sure what i should do..Maybe my dizzy is bad???

Help Me i miss driving my z..

NismoPick

uh hum....

BackHouseZ

ok

So i Bought a inline spark plug checker and looks like i have no spark.

I know the plugs are new, cap and rotor is new, wires goood, I checked coil with a ohm meter and it read 0.9-1.0. tried the test on another and it gave same reading. So i think the coil is good. Currently my battery is at 11.8V

I do have the light on the control unit.

Maybe My Ignition Control Module is not working trying to test it. Any tricks? I will try with a spare. I have And maybe I will have some success.

WildmaN

Seems to me that the coil isn't any good. That sounds like a low reading. Correct me if I'm wrong. But shouldn't it be 12volts to the coil? Maybe both coils you tested are bad. Try getting another coil. Test the voltage, and go from there. Good luck man.

NismoPick

Automotive batteries should be at 12.6V charged. 11.8V is extremely low and is likely causing all kinds of electrical probs (I'm actually surprised that the starter cranks at all).

IF that isn't the prob, I suggest checking the coil bracket to make sure it's securely grounded, and make sure the ecu is powering on.

BackHouseZ

Well the bracket that holds the IC is tight grounded well.
And the Green light is on, on the control unit.
the Haynes Manuel says reading should be from 12.5-11.5v battery ok

FricFrac

Under a load maybe. What are you measuring the voltage with? The gauge in the dash may not be reading right. I calibrated mine myself because it was out of whack.

BackHouseZ

I have a digital meter that has a bunch of settings. Made By Equus 3310.
That is what i am measuring the ohms with as well.

When I measure the ohms i put it in the 200 range for coil test says should be .84-1.02, I cant remember if this was the secondary coil or the primary but i tested both. The other range is 8400-12 400 which at that point i change the settings to 200k on the meter.

Now that i have tried to start my car several times the battery has started to drain I will have to charge it again which sucks because i have to take it to autozone for that. I need to Buy a home charger, any recommendations?

OK IN the Hanyes Manuel on the page where it shows you how to test coil there is a diagram that says where to ground one of the leads from your meter.

WHERE IS THAT SPOT? see pic--I am working on my 83zxt

J-cubZ

Battery chargers are pretty simple, i haven't had any fail even my grandpas old one. Get a trickle charger and buy some jumper cables meantime.

BackHouseZ

So Today I tested 3 IC Units and no start. used jump from another battery that was at 12.2v. Coil tested good. I have another coil and tested and nothing. Green light on Control unit. New spark plugs and cap and rotor. when i installed new cap and rotor suddenly started, but sadly started the same problem again.

Lets just say coil and ic unit is good what else could cause no spark, from coil. I tested on the strut bolt, for spark. Also when all connected using in line tester.

When I was driving the car I had a problem when the engine got hot it was hard to start, took like three tries. What may cause that?

Here is one extra note.
When i use my key in the ignition switch it can be shady..meaning the key only can be in one way. Also when the key is in the on position or really any position, I can remove the key, even when the car is running. This is the original key work on doors as well. I think its original. My aftermarket stereo works my fuel pump makes the noise then stops....


I do wanna say that my center gauges are not installed. exterior lights work. and blinkers. dome light no.