corbith

I have always loved 280z's and am finally about to purchase my first and have a few newbie questions.

I am considering two different 280's both 1983, one turbo the other NA. While I would rather have a turbo the NA has a rebuilt engine, less than 1k miles on the rebuild. Given this will be a cruiser, will I notice that much lack in performance by not going turbo?

That being said, the NA requires a new torsion rod. I am thinking of using these: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/s...s-datsun-280zx They look heavy and shouldn't need replacing for some time, does anyone have experience with them?

While I'm having this done, I was thinking I should replace all the bushings. I found this kit Motorsport! Quick Urethane Bushing Kit, 79-83 280ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts, would this cover everything I need to address?

Also, will the struts and springs need to be removed to perform this work? Knowing the danger of removing springs, I tend to shy away from work that would require me to remove and would use a mechanic. If not, I would tackle the project.

And finally, I have read the various posts on what to look for when purchasing but am curious about average purchase prices for 1983's turbo (98k miles) and NA (97k miles)? Both have little to no rust but faded paint, fairly good interiors, dashes not even cracked.

Thank you in advance for helping a new guy get started with these great cars!

NismoPick

Welcome to ZDriver!

Depends if you test drive both first. The turbo is much faster, and has many more "mod" options.

Click: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...ol-arms-35855/

Looks like it has the front control arm bushings, the tension rod bushings which you won't need if you buy the T3 tension rods, and sway bar bushings. Doesn't include rear control arm bushings.

You'll have to unbolt the strut from the control arm, not from the strut tower, so it can just hang there while you work on the control arms / tension rods / bushings. Download the FSM for free at XenonS130 - S130 Reference

Price is more dependent on location, availability, and how much the seller wants ($$$). I've owned 10+ Z cars and never spent more than $500 for any of them.

corbith

Thank you for the information Nismo, greatly appreciate your help and the links! Are you satisfied with the T3 and is it worth the investment as a replacement to the standard tension rod?

Regarding the asking price, both are in Ohio and the turbo is asking $4.9 and the NA $4.5. They both have lower mileage, no major rust issues and relatively clean interiors but both need paint and a little TLC if you will. I don't want to be unfair to the seller but the prices still seem a bit high. Any thoughts as to where I should start the initial offer? I am going to see both this weekend and hopefully drive home in one!

NismoPick

oofa! That n/a better look like it lives on the showroom floor for $4.5k. $1k-$3k is the average for a good condition 280zx... maybe a bit more for a super clean turbo. Just like any old sports car, sometimes you will be dealing with someone who thinks it's the rarest, most clean classic car on the earth... thus the high asking price. Got any pics of these potential buys?

As for the T3 tension rods, I haven't driven my car with them yet... still doing some other work to prep it for next year's driving season. But those who have done it, say it makes a noticeable difference on steering response. On a completely stock 280zx, I wouldn't spend the cash... just grab a junk yard spare.

corbith

Nismo - following are links of the cars I'm considering:

1983 280zx NA: 1983 Nissan 280 ZX

1983 280zx Turbo:
TURBO 1983 DATSUN 280 ZX

Would love to hear your opinion these options.

Thanks again!

corbith

Nismo - following are links of the cars I'm considering:

1983 280zx NA: 1983 Nissan 280 ZX

1983 280zx Turbo:
TURBO 1983 DATSUN 280 ZX

Would love to hear your opinion these options.

Thanks again!

NismoPick

I'd much rather have that turbo over the n/a... especially for only $500 more. That n/a looks clean, but it's obviously been restored, and used mix & match parts from various years to do a red / black scheme.

The turbo looks clean, but not very good pics... none of the engine bay, and very little info.

I doubt you'll get below $3k for either of them, unless they are very motivated to get rid of the car.

cbaumy34

Id go with the turbo!! I have an n/a that im working on its a great car super clean and it keep N/A because its all original and il only upgrade the suspension and do bolt ons. The one problem is its slow lol..

corbith

Any thoughts on what a fair initial offer should be in both cases?

NismoPick

That's really something you'll have to figure out. Don't throw out a number right at first... make sure you look over the car in great detail, point out all the flaws, ask them what they think it's "REALLY" worth, then come up with your best offer. If you low ball by a lot, make sure you have the cash in hand to back it up (cash talks).

I've bought and sold a lot of cars... nothing is worse than beating around the bush, and not knowing every little detail (on both ends of the deal).

corbith

You certainly have more knowledge and experience than I do given I'm brand new. Based on my limited research, I was thinking of offering 2.5 for the NA and 3 for the turbo. Also, I will go with cash in hand to back it. Is this still to high?

NismoPick

Those are realistic prices, but I doubt the sellers will drop half the price unless they are really motivated to sell... then again, I've low balled the crap out of a few deals and got away with it. I bought a 98 BMW 318ti for $2500 when the chick was asking $5k, but that was because she had a lot of bills to pay and needed the cash asap.

Also make sure they have the orig title for you.

cbaumy34

Try the old winter is coming and they dont wana store they want to store them..
May help the negotiations slightly.

corbith

I guess it's also good that I have two options so that can be used as a point of negotiating as well. I guess where I need advise, what should the top-end price be? I really don't want to over pay.

Thanks for your patience and help, I know this is probably a remedial point for you guys!

cbaumy34

I bought a rust free 1982 280zx with a 126k for 3500 last month if that helps at all..

corbith

Thanks for the information, was that an NA or Turbo?

cbaumy34

It was an N/A. I may have over paid by a few hundred bucks but it was to clean to pass up.

corbith

Based on the limited pictures in the ad I posted, how did yours compare?

ThaPimpShrimp

I'm with Nismo, go for the turbo. You'll be much happier with the power and the range of upgrades you can do. Plus that one looks like it is in great condition. Even the paint is good. If you can hold off on painting your car for a while you'll save a lot of money for other things. Painting a car is expensive, especially if you don't strip the car yourself!

cbaumy34

They are very similar based on the photos the interior on those are slightly better mine has worn vinyl seats that im going to get redone.

corbith

I agree, the turbo is my first choice, provided it looks as good in person as it does in the very limited pictures. I've learned lately that photos can be very deceiving... Either way, I will be painting as I want to add a body kit.

ThaPimpShrimp

Still, you'll be much much happier with the turbo. If you end up with the N/A you'll likely end up doing a Turbo swap some day anyway.

cbaumy34

He is correct im contemplating it and im only a month in lol.

corbith

I agree, the turbo is my first choice but the NA could serve well if the other is not in the condition the seller claims. I've been looking for a 280 for a while and most have turned out to be in very poor condition. Any ideas on what the most I should pay for the turbo provided the pictures are accurate? I just want to avoid overpaying for the car.

cbaumy34

Im guessing 4400 is what he will take..