My N/A to Turbo swap. (Might as well try to organize and write this up)
#27
Hey, good luck with your swap. I was in the same place as you and decided to go with megasquirt. It turned out pretty good, but it was a pretty steep learning curve to get a decent tune.
Here's my build thread for reference. It doesn't get interesting until page 2 or 3. There may be some info in here that you can use.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/...s-and-answers/
Here's my build thread for reference. It doesn't get interesting until page 2 or 3. There may be some info in here that you can use.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/...s-and-answers/
#28
Hey, good luck with your swap. I was in the same place as you and decided to go with megasquirt. It turned out pretty good, but it was a pretty steep learning curve to get a decent tune.
Here's my build thread for reference. It doesn't get interesting until page 2 or 3. There may be some info in here that you can use.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/...s-and-answers/
Here's my build thread for reference. It doesn't get interesting until page 2 or 3. There may be some info in here that you can use.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/...s-and-answers/
I am not opposed to using MegaSquirt, but I would like to save it for later. I want it running the cheap way first.
Like I said, comprable to the cost of a motor swap. I could be wrong, but as soon as I look at upgraded electronics, the price shoots way up.
Question:
What kind of thread size it the stock turbo oil supply line? At first I read that is it 1/8 NPT. Tried that, and it's not the case. Now, I read that it is 1/8BSPT.
I will order the fitting for that from McMaster, but I am skeptical.
The oil line does not have a conical thread, but it has a flared end instead. Is it some different standard?
#29
Rising rate is an old school patch job. It's not really the proper way to do it. Modern electronics can easily and much more precisely manage the fuel with PWM on the injectors. I can understand guys trying to figure out how to upgrade with what's available when the Z31 ECU was the only upgrade available but why would anyone spend the money on an Z31 conversion when you can have a modern ECU like Mega Squirt, etc for the same money.
#30
Nice build. I love it.
I am not opposed to using MegaSquirt, but I would like to save it for later. I want it running the cheap way first.
Like I said, comprable to the cost of a motor swap. I could be wrong, but as soon as I look at upgraded electronics, the price shoots way up.
Question:
What kind of thread size it the stock turbo oil supply line? At first I read that is it 1/8 NPT. Tried that, and it's not the case. Now, I read that it is 1/8BSPT.
I will order the fitting for that from McMaster, but I am skeptical.
The oil line does not have a conical thread, but it has a flared end instead. Is it some different standard?
I am not opposed to using MegaSquirt, but I would like to save it for later. I want it running the cheap way first.
Like I said, comprable to the cost of a motor swap. I could be wrong, but as soon as I look at upgraded electronics, the price shoots way up.
Question:
What kind of thread size it the stock turbo oil supply line? At first I read that is it 1/8 NPT. Tried that, and it's not the case. Now, I read that it is 1/8BSPT.
I will order the fitting for that from McMaster, but I am skeptical.
The oil line does not have a conical thread, but it has a flared end instead. Is it some different standard?
BSPT is very similar to NPT, which is why some people make it work. You can run a tap into the block with some grease on it to make it NPT. I chose not to. I ordered my fittings from BAT, Inc.
http://www.batinc.net/mocal-central.htm
#31
The Z31T upgrade is great for someone w/ a complete 280zxt or at least a complete L28ET w/ ecu and harness. That is because everything is plug and play. ib042129 is building a turbo motor out of an n/a motor, so it wouldn't be worth it for him, but in any case, he needs to upgrade his fuel computer someway... he'll find out when the car doesn't run on 20psi (or 90psi) of fuel pressure.
#32
BSPT is very similar to NPT, which is why some people make it work. You can run a tap into the block with some grease on it to make it NPT. I chose not to. I ordered my fittings from BAT, Inc.
http://www.batinc.net/mocal-central.htm
http://www.batinc.net/mocal-central.htm
If wrost comes to worst, is it a problem if I cut the stock metal oil line and just but a fuel/oil hose over it and clamp it? I would rather not do it that way though.
Originally Posted by nismo
he'll find out when the car doesn't run on 20psi (or 90psi) of fuel pressure.
#33
On the turbo end, mine had some kind of bracket and a banjo bolt. I don't recall the threads on that. The other end of the metal line I recall being flared, but like you noted, I replaced the metal line with a flexible one. Sorry I can't help you there.
#34
#35
The problem is that you're barely upgrading and cars running on the Z31 often times have stutters, etc. With MS you've got the ability to trouble shoot and look at the data either real time or recorded whereas the Z31 is a black box and you'll end up chasing your tail and/or replacing parts until you've fixed the problem. There are 8 and 16bit version of the ECU and with the variations on harnesses, sensors and ECU's there is plenty of opportunity for issues. Personally I'd rather not spend the money twice or all the grief of trouble shooting and I work with electronics for a living.....
#36
Yeah, adding MS definitely increases the cost. The kit itself is relatively inexpensive... but then you add in the sensors, wire, relays, injector connectors, fuse blocks, etc...
BSPT is very similar to NPT, which is why some people make it work. You can run a tap into the block with some grease on it to make it NPT. I chose not to. I ordered my fittings from BAT, Inc.
http://www.batinc.net/mocal-central.htm
BSPT is very similar to NPT, which is why some people make it work. You can run a tap into the block with some grease on it to make it NPT. I chose not to. I ordered my fittings from BAT, Inc.
http://www.batinc.net/mocal-central.htm
That's not quite correct. I'm actually building an adapter and plugging right into the stock harness and using all the stock sensors including the air temp sensor built into the stock AFM. The only thing I need to run is a vaccum line to the MS (have to run a line for the boost gauge anyhow).
#37
That's not quite correct. I'm actually building an adapter and plugging right into the stock harness and using all the stock sensors including the air temp sensor built into the stock AFM. The only thing I need to run is a vaccum line to the MS (have to run a line for the boost gauge anyhow).
#39
^^^ If I read FricFrac's statement correctly, he didn't say he's using an AFM, he said he's using the air intake temp sensor in the AFM (the lil plastic node just inside the lip of the AFM).
#41
Also, why did mike get a different TPS sensor? The stock one is not adequate?
#42
I'm using the stock setup so the AFM will be located where the stock AFM on the 280ZXT is located. I did forget about two things - one of which you mentioned is the wide band O2 sensor. Once the system is tuned, however, you should be able to run on the stock narrow band O2. The other thing that is required is to replace the stock TPS (switch) with a variable resistor type like the ones found on the 240SX, etc and run the wiring for it back to the MS. The stock wiring harness only has two wires running to the sensor so you could use a single addition wire in conjunction with the stock harness or even use a good ground on one side of the TPS and the other two stock wires back to the MS
#43
So a little bit of an update. No photos, sorry.
I finished the intercooler routing. It did not come out to bad. I guess it will be useful to list all the pipes and fittings that I used for future reference. I will make sure to compile a list soon.
The oil supply line does use some weird thread standard, the BSPT fitting does not fit on the oil supply lie. So I will just cut the line a bit and use a flexible pipe and a barb fitting to the engine.
I also got my BEGi fmu in the mail, but as usual with buying things used from forums it was missing a needle valve that does the boost dependent adjustment. $20 +shipping later, and the needle valve is in the mail. I will see how it works out for me.
I finished the intercooler routing. It did not come out to bad. I guess it will be useful to list all the pipes and fittings that I used for future reference. I will make sure to compile a list soon.
The oil supply line does use some weird thread standard, the BSPT fitting does not fit on the oil supply lie. So I will just cut the line a bit and use a flexible pipe and a barb fitting to the engine.
I also got my BEGi fmu in the mail, but as usual with buying things used from forums it was missing a needle valve that does the boost dependent adjustment. $20 +shipping later, and the needle valve is in the mail. I will see how it works out for me.
#46
I know that routing the air filter will be a bit of a pain. And also, the way things are now, I need to relocate the ignition coil.
I will get the intercooler pics on Sunday.
I still need an exhaust pipe from Borini, which I hope is in the mail.
And the needle valve for the BEGi FMU. So I won't start the car on Sunday.
But hopefully some time during the week I will see if it runs at all.
#48
Here are the pictures of the intercooler piping.
Please don't get on my case about the mismatched color on one pipe and coupler.
I routed the vent of the BOV into the bung that is right after the AFM but before the turbo. I also routed the vent from the head cover there.
And the cold start line went into the bung in the J-pipe.
After the photos is a list of all the pipes and the fittings that I used.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875477472/http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875477472/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/11194201@N03/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875474380/http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875474380/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/11194201@N03/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875471640/http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875471640/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/11194201@N03/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875468908/http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875468908/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/11194201@N03/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5874905209/http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5874905209/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/11194201@N03/, on Flickr
Turbo-AFM:
2.5 inch Si coupler *2
2.5 inch 45 degree Al pipe
2.5 inch T-clamps *3
Stock pipe that goes from AFM to intake
Big clamp for AFM
Intercooler Piping:
2.0 inch Si coupler
Stock Turbo outlet clamp with heat shield, or 2.0 inch t-clamp *2
Stock J-Pipe, cut to be as long as possible.
2.0-2.5 45 (or 90) degree silicone coupler
2.0 inch T-clamp
2.5 inch 45 degree AL pipe
2.5 inch 90 degree AL pipe *3
2.5 inch 90 degree Si coupler *3
2.5 inch straight AL pipe
2.5 inch straight AL pipe with bung for BOV
2.5 inch straight Si coupler *3
2.25-2.5 straight Si coupler
2.5 inch T-clamp * 13
2.25 inch T-clamp
Please don't get on my case about the mismatched color on one pipe and coupler.
I routed the vent of the BOV into the bung that is right after the AFM but before the turbo. I also routed the vent from the head cover there.
And the cold start line went into the bung in the J-pipe.
After the photos is a list of all the pipes and the fittings that I used.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875477472/http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875477472/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/11194201@N03/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875474380/http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875474380/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/11194201@N03/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875471640/http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875471640/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/11194201@N03/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875468908/http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5875468908/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/11194201@N03/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5874905209/http://www.flickr.com/photos/11194201@N03/5874905209/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/11194201@N03/, on Flickr
Turbo-AFM:
2.5 inch Si coupler *2
2.5 inch 45 degree Al pipe
2.5 inch T-clamps *3
Stock pipe that goes from AFM to intake
Big clamp for AFM
Intercooler Piping:
2.0 inch Si coupler
Stock Turbo outlet clamp with heat shield, or 2.0 inch t-clamp *2
Stock J-Pipe, cut to be as long as possible.
2.0-2.5 45 (or 90) degree silicone coupler
2.0 inch T-clamp
2.5 inch 45 degree AL pipe
2.5 inch 90 degree AL pipe *3
2.5 inch 90 degree Si coupler *3
2.5 inch straight AL pipe
2.5 inch straight AL pipe with bung for BOV
2.5 inch straight Si coupler *3
2.25-2.5 straight Si coupler
2.5 inch T-clamp * 13
2.25 inch T-clamp
#49
Right now i'm workign on a 300zx Turbo swap with a 300zx Wiring harness as well. I've not seen anyone use a 300zx turbo harness yet. I've spent tons of time reading the wiring harness diagram and spending some time over at Z31performance.
#50
Here are the pictures of the intercooler piping.
Please don't get on my case about the mismatched color on one pipe and coupler.
I routed the vent of the BOV into the bung that is right after the AFM but before the turbo. I also routed the vent from the head cover there.
And the cold start line went into the bung in the J-pipe.
After the photos is a list of all the pipes and the fittings that I used.
Please don't get on my case about the mismatched color on one pipe and coupler.
I routed the vent of the BOV into the bung that is right after the AFM but before the turbo. I also routed the vent from the head cover there.
And the cold start line went into the bung in the J-pipe.
After the photos is a list of all the pipes and the fittings that I used.
Curious to what the red tubing is? Silicone? Where did you get that form?
Last edited by JSM; 06-26-2011 at 07:58 PM.