Motor To Motor
#1
Motor To Motor
It looks like I will me useing the motor from my red part's car, But it has a very diff intake then the one in big blue. The one in my part's car (stock 5 speed) has alot more vacume lines then the one from big blue(auto trany) The wire harness on the 5 speed motor is Fubar. It's way to messed up to use again, and not trust worthly. I would like to do this with out swaping intakes. If i got to swap stuff like that, then i might as well as just breake down the orig motor early and rebuild her, But would take along time.
#3
Yeah the only vacuum I'm running right now is the, oh wait that broke. Ok never mind. I have all my vacuum lines capped off I had my vacuum advance hooke up but since that broke I capped that line off too. My EGR's not hooke up either (cause the TVV is broken too). Car runs fine without putting out any vacuum source whatsoever. Wiring should be interchangeable too. As long as you wire up the injectors, sensors, and distributor, and the air regulator and CSV. Thats it. Yeah, you wont need to swap harnesses.
#8
I looked over the part's car motor. She might run, but she has a bad Exahust Manafold. The part where the Fly Wheel bolts up is cracked. I took the fly wheel off the motor when I took out the 5speed trany. she has a good head and intake. Block I am clueless on till the head comes off, or till it comes out the car. My intake has countless broke bolts, Something we are all familiar with, My cold start only has one bolt in it, The reason why there are burn marks around it, and a few other thing's. I am gona bring out the motor in big blue, and take intake off. I picked up 4 gasket's, Intake/Exahust, Valve Cover, Oil Pan, Water Inlet. Oil Pan gasket looks ok, but she show's age, and maby a small leak, so while the motor is out, i'll put a new on in there also. I might pull the head off while she's out and evey thing is off. I might just have to replace head as well. My freind said he saw a crack in my head, but that was with the valve cover off, and there are a bunch of lil lines in there already. There's a strong smell of gas in the oil, but then the oil has been seting up for three year's.
#9
A small crack under the valve cover is not as detrimental as a crack along the surface that mates to the block. Things like excess casting flash can crack and even break off. You should give a once over with a dremel to clean up any flash or rough surfaces. A cylinder cracking under the valve cover from stress is not too likely. The only other place a crack is detirmental is the valve seat. Anyways, a crack can be welded up. If the crack is under the valve cover its as simple as leaving the head bolted to the block and welding the crack up. If it's somewhere important better leave it to a machine shop.
#10
Originally Posted by FubarI33t
i set cam, she is still doing the exact thing. Cam is set, crank is set, chain is set, i think it might be a bad valve.
The only reason I ask is because I've crossed wires before. And damn it's irritating to find out you've done something so simple SO wrong...
#11
Well. I have checked them over and over again, I matched them up to the book. I got all the timeing all over the motor Set. but still backfireing. I am gona bring out the motor in big blue, easyer to get to them intake bottom bolt's. and the block could use a lil spit shine. Till i can find a way to get her out, I won't know to much more about it. I do know that the tube that goes from the EGR to Manafold is cut. I think i said something about that back when I first came to these forums. Jfair ain't even useing his, So i'll make sure it's kinked off right, and take the vaccume lines off it. She did not start backfireing till After the locking up stoped. If you remember a while ago, the motor was locking up wile i was trying to start it. maby some damnage was caused then.
Last edited by FubarI33t; 12-10-2005 at 06:35 AM.
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