Sidney Crowder

Im new to the automotive mechanics world so work with me here. I own an 82 280zxt 2+2 and ive owned it for a year now but its been garaged for the past 6 months while ive been doing the best overhaul i can. It stopped running one night on the way home and ive done alot to try and eliminate the problem. Ive replaced the fuel pump, alternator, injectors, fuel pressure regulator, throttle position sensor, rewired the engine bay and replaced the ecu. The symptoms it still has is i can crank and drive it, but once i cut it off it wont crank for 8-10 hours. Im getting fuel and air and im pretty sure im getting spark. I was told that my problem is the ignition control module. Can i troubleshoot this before i dump more money or is this for sure my issue?

FricFrac

Sound like it could be the ignition module. Try spraying it with cold spray (for electronics) or take a can of duster (ala computer duster in a can) and turn it upside down so the liquid propelant comes out. Just be careful and wear gloves/goggles. That will bring the temp down and tell you if it's a thermal fault which is quite common when these fault

Sidney Crowder

I was just told to change it so im not even sure exactly what it is. Where should i spray. A picture would be awesome.

FricFrac

It's the black plastic box with wires going into it on the side of the dizzy.

ameerhyder

Hey, I have the same problem except mine jumps right back on. Sometimes it doesn't even turn off. The rpms just drop to zero for about three seconds and jump right back up. I recently changed the dist. cap because one inlet was corroded but i haven't figured that is the problem since the turning off doesnt happen often, its just once in a while its a 79zx. Any help FricFrac. Sorry for writing on your post, its just that my problem is very similar.

Sidney Crowder

Im not sure where it is still. Is it under the distributor or on the coil? I tried to take some pictures but my phone cant upload them to this site. And where do i spray? Sorry guys.

ThaPimpShrimp

FSM!!

XenonS130 - S130 Reference

ZZzzz

they are talking about the black box with an electrical connector, about 2x3 inches on the side of the distributor. It is the only black box on the distributor.

i believe with him saying it is a thermal fault, that you would want to cool the whole box down, as a thermal fault has to do with the internals heating up and either shorting, or disconnecting due to temperature change. if you cool it, and that fixes the problem, then you can get one for pretty cheap, and it's a really easy fix.

Sidney Crowder

Is my best bet ebay? Or would you recommend another site? They dont carry it at autozone.

borini63

His ZX is a Turbo and there is no ignition module stuck to the distributor,Turbo cars have ignitor and it stuck with the coil!!
You need to trouble shoot your parts instead dumping parts and money in to your car......
Your Factory Service Manual is your Friend right now.
Did you have a good gas tank,good Fuel lines,did you check your Coolant Head temperature sensor did you ohm your Air flow meter and made sure it's in good working condition,connectors from corrosion,timing,getting gas and spark etc etc........
Search in here is your another option.
But if your issue from the ignitor then I have few of them and I can send you one.

FricFrac

Doh! Missed the turbo part! Still I'd check the transistor on the coil bracket the exact same way. It's also possible the coil itself is on it's way out. You can also so the same thermal check with the ECU. If it takes 8-10 hours to get it to start again you could pull the ECU when it's not starting, open it up and hit it with cold spray, reinstall and see if it fires. Of the three it sounds like it may be the coil if it takes 8-10 hours to start.